1999 V70r - Rebuilt head installed/now codes P0014 P0134

[robbcolecrabtree]

Well at least the CVVT hub is on correctly then. The sad part is I think it was good to go from the start. It never came on right away, I would always have to take it out on the highway and get it up in the RPMs for it to come one. But it always did.

So with that supposedly being correct now, do you think the tensioner possibly being too tight might have anything to do with it? Where does everyone else normally set their tensioner on a cold engine but a warm day?

As for the CVVT solenoid, I have another coming today or tomorrow to try swapping that out. It is all clean below. New gasket. Screen on gasket is clear. Passages below have fresh oil from the oil change in them, so I believe it is pretty free and clear. Oil has some seafoam in it to try and remove some gunk that could possibly be left in there.

The resistance when rotating the hub is what I imagine it should be. Springs back just fine and I could grab the timing gear on the exhaust side and rotate it to test the preload if I wanted, although that is a bit more challenging if not using a wrench. Did you mean resistance on the actual solenoid by the coil packs? And if so, how would you test that? On the inside of the solenoid, or are we talking OHMs resistance on the leads?

[robbcolecrabtree]

It also looks like my replacement solenoid is out for delivery, so I should be able to try loosening the tensioner tonight, and if that doesn't work, then I will swap out the solenoid. I will also try getting the ohms on the current solenoid.

If I remember reading somewhere, shouldn't it be like 3-4 ohms, or was it 13-14? I will check before I replace tonight. Hopefully just a tensioner, and I can return the solenoid.

[robbcolecrabtree]

On another note, I am also going to change the oil/filter again. I think I am going to go with some sort of Castrol GTX high mileage oil. Maybe a 10w30. That will get the seafoam out of the engine and any gunk it may have cleaned up while it has been in there. That way I will have fresh tension on the belt, different solenoid, and fresh oil/filter.

If someone has any other recommendations on the oil, let me know. I am going to go pick some up in a couple hours on my way home. I have 186k on the car if that makes a difference to anyone. Not sure if conventional or synthetic has been run in the past.

[precopster]

I was speaking to an ex-Volvo tech a couple of months ago and he was adamant that there was a faulty batch of oil filters that used to clog up the CVVT and require disassembly and cleaning of the area just beneath the solenoid. CVVT codes were part of the problem.

Thing is I can't remember if it was Mann or Mahle. In any case they probably fixed the problem by now.

Have you tried cleaning the CVVT? All you require is some solvent and a new gasket.

[robbcolecrabtree]

I ran MAF cleaner through it all and soaked it pretty good. Didn't make any difference. Cleaned it several times when doing this timing belt stuff. The gasket is brand new and the screen is free and clear. That is why for $30, picking up another to try was worth while. Worst case scenario someone else may need one.

I will check and make sure the oil filters are good. I have two from Volvo in the box, but I will have to check and see for sure.

Any other recommendations on cleaning the solenoid. Or spraying the cleaner through each port and watching it spew out of the other ports good enough? At this point, I am willing to try most anything.

[robbcolecrabtree]

Just starting to work on the car now. I did a quick test on the two solenoids. The one on the car right now shows 4.2 ohms. The one I just got in the mail shows 6.5 ohms. Interesting. I wonder which will perform better?

[robbcolecrabtree]

Okay, so changed the oil, and adjusted the tensioner and no change. I let the car warm up fully. Cycled the key several times in between and no code. As soon as I went to take it for a drive, P0014 again.

Pulled the car back in the garage, swapped the solenoid, no code. Cycled key several times, no code. Took the car for a drive and before I got off the main street onto the highway, CEL. Checked the code, and it was a P1332. Cam sensor

I thought perhaps the solenoid I put in was no good. I cleared the code when I got back to the garage and researched a bit. Many people said bad timing, or bad solenoid. Great. Just put it in and it is bad.

Since it was cleared, I thought I would see if it came back. Drove out to the highway, got up to full boost (11-12 psi) and looped back home. No CEL. Cycled the key a thousand times to check and see if one would pop up, still no CEL. Started it again a few times about 30 minutes later, no CEL.

Got up this morning. Started it up and ran for about a minute, no CEL. Cycled key again several times and started up several times, no CEL.

I am not totally satisfied it is fully fixed, but I feel good about having no codes right now. When I get home, I will go through the process again, letting it warm up, taking it for a quick drive and such. Hopefully, if no codes appear, I will take it to emissions Saturday morning if time permits. We are going to a wedding, so I don't know if the wife will buy into letting me run out to take care of that.

One thing I will note, I did hear some clicking periodically once I swapped the new solenoid on there. Not sure if it is from the solenoid or not. Hopefully not, don't want to go through getting another and all that jazz. I guess at this point only time will tell if the issue is resolved with new oil/filter/vvt solenoid.

[robbcolecrabtree]

By the way, when I got home and went to adjust the tensioner yesterday, this is what it looked like. WAY TOO TIGHT. This was with a cold engine, but about 85 degrees in the garage. I think the turbo leaking exhaust gases into the engine bay is heating things up a bit too much and causing the tensioner to tighten itself down way too much. Gotta fix that exhaust leak ASAP.

Tensioner on cold engine too tight

[Ozark Lee]

I've found that adjusting the tensioner is a multi step process. I set it once and start the engine and it will change. I then dial it back and repeat. It usually takes me about three iterations to get it at least at one edge of the window or the other and get it to sustain that range.

...Lee

[robbcolecrabtree]

Yah, I imagine once I narrow down that exhaust leak and get that all fixed up, I will be adjusting again. What did you think about the whole solenoid deal? Is the one with the higher ohm rating better? What about the P1332 code? Is it possible I got that code because the ECU was used to the old solenoid readings?