2000 S70 ETM/MAF diagnostics

[Caberguy]

Thanks. I do know that the OEM is Denso, and I did find a new Volvo branded Denso for $166 (US), but i don't know how long it will be available at that price (substantially less than I've seen them elsewhere). The Bosch one that i mentioned would be an aftermarket option, I just know they're out there, i don't know if they're any good.

I'll check and clean the connections on the relays tomorrow, and check the grounds.

[Caberguy]

I should add that on Saturday I noticed that the braided ground strap running from the back of the block to the passenger side shock tower was broken, and quite corroded. I don't know how long it had been like that, though it may have been a casualty of lifting the engine while I was working on the motor mounts. I haven't been able to find a suitable replacement locally, but I have one on the way. I replaced it, for the time being, with a stretch of the heaviest gauge wire that i could get my hands on. That alone didn't solve my problems, but I was planning on looking into other potential ground problems. But I need to give my back a couple of days off from working it.

[precopster]

The 0 280 218 108 Bosch number you may have seen in the Bosch catalogue suits turbo units only though their catalogue doesn't state that. The OEM number for the Denso MAF is 1275636 NOT 8670263 which suits turbo cars.

At present only Denso produce this MAF

[Caberguy]

That is the Bosch part number that has come up on several sites. And the Denso model that i'm referring to is 1275636.

[precopster]

So you understand you can't fit a Bosch MAF on this car ?? Different connector and different design meant for a Denso ECM.

The Bosch MAFs are meant for Bosch engine management systems.

[regent]

There's also a big difference in the metering characteristics; so if you splice the old connector to match the wiring config, your computer will still be quite upset with the BOSCH thingy

[Caberguy]

I understand that now. However a number of parts sites (Rockauto, Advanced Auto, O'Rielly, etc.) listed that particular Bosch, and a number of other manufacturers parts (Beck/Arnely, Ultrapower, etc.), as compatible with my engine. While i knew it wasn't OEM, I was under the impression that it was potentially a viable aftermarket option. Had you not informed me otherwise, I would have had no way of knowing that it wouldn't work. Thanks.

[regent]

Yes,
If I may add, lots of aftermarket retailers recommend certain generic HO2Sensor kits and loudly advertize them as compatible with our engines (almost like a one-size-fits-all bathing suit).
The majority of people who decided to go that way to save a buck are usually very unhappy.

[Caberguy]

Ok. I've just replaced the engine ground strap from the back of the engine to that awkward hard to get at bolt below the shock tower. I removed and cleaned those bolts and those at the ground locations next to the oil pressure pump and in front of the battery. I replaced them and checked resistance, negative battery terminal to ground location. They were all around 2 ohms, though that was measuring across their corroded bolt heads, so actually impedance across the circuit path should be lower. Is there another, better way to test this?

I checked the fuse box, and I do not have an SAS relay.

Going to head out in a little bit to run some errands and give it a test. I'll report back if there's any change.

[regent]

The best way to test a grounding circuit is to run some current through it and read the voltage drop.
A whole two ohms seems to me way too much. (Consider the load from the ETM - say at 5 amps you would be dropping 10 volts!!!)
You could use a 21 Watt bulb to run current through the path in question (less than 2 amps)
Your calculated resistance by way of measuring the voltage drop should be just fractions of an Ohm, like 0.05 to 0.10 Ohm for a good grounding circuit of this type.