1999 V70 NA - DF window down but not up- repl master switch

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 10 Jun 2014, 17:38

Was having problems with the master window switch controlling both front windows. Thought it was the master switch so replaced it with a new Volvo version. While the switch is nice a new and looks great, the drivers window only goes down (a problem in the rain) and the passenger window (controlled from the master switch) won't go down or up. Rear windows work fine.

I can force the window up by removing the door panel and applying 12V to the motor terminals.

Any ideas? I need to fix this. Thank you!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Jun 2014, 19:19

It hasn't been as big of a problem on the Volvos as it was on most of the 1970-1980 GM cars but the wiring harness from the door can have the wires break due to repeated flexing as the door gets opened and closed. One other thing to look at is the connector at the A pillar.

A common problem is that the door check will break and it will ultimately break the mount on the A pillar. One repair procedure is to weld the broken mount but the heat from welding the joint can melt the insulation on the wires behind the A pillar.

I would start by pulling the harness out of the rubber boot and see if any of the wires are broken. You will need to tug on them since the wires can break inside of the insulation and it really isn't immediately visible.

...Lee

v70_oz · Post by **v70_oz** » 10 Jun 2014, 21:45

Hello, first post here but thought I would try and help too as this site helped me fix my '98 v70 ignition tumbler problem and is a great resource.

I had a similar problem with my rear passenger windows not working properly. They would not work using the master switch or the switch located in the door of the offending window. Reading up on it led me to beleive that BOTH the master switch and localised door switches complete the circuit somehow and need to be in good condition to function correctly.

I needed to disassemble and clean both the master AND the rear passenger switches with contact cleaner and a cotton bud before they would work properly. There was a small amount of green corrosion on the switch contact points that I cleaned up and they have been working without a problem for a few months now.

Just be gentle when you disassemble the switches and don't drop any small internal parts. Hope that helps with your passenger door. For the drivers door I would follow Lee's advice considering you replaced the master already.

Post by **cn90** » 10 Jun 2014, 22:39

The original poster mentioned he installed brand-new master switch, so:
- Either the wiring inside the door got loose...or
- The wires break where they leave the chassis to enter the door. So you need to look at the door hinges area.

Anyway, I posted some info on "window glass askew" issue, you may find this link useful:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=55267

Below is a video for 2001 V70, not sure it helps but it doesn't hurt to watch:

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 11 Jun 2014, 06:36

Thank you! Your responses give me something to look into.

Ozark Lee, I'll check the A-pillar connector as that would be a nice easy fix versus a damaged wire. My son bought this car used so the door check could have been repaired at one point. I'll look for signs of repair and damaged wiring near the area.

v70_oz, You are right that the switches work together. One test of this is when everything is functioning if the passenger has the switch engaged, the driver can interrupt the action with the master switch. The circuit must require all switches to be in-tact. I haven't removed a passenger switch to test the theory but i will.

CN90, I had almost dismissed your video when I saw it earlier, but your voltmeter work gives me something else to try and verify. The 1999 and 2001 have quite different wiring (1999 has 2 leads to the motor, 2001 appears to have 4), but probing the back of the connectors as you demonstrate will be helpful to understanding the circuit.

One more note. The front passenger switch works well on its own both up and down, as do the rear switches. I now have several items to check.

Thanks again.

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 10 Aug 2014, 07:47

Well, I have been too busy with other things to dig into this, but yesterday I took a little time to get into the door a little more. Here's what I learned, but I'm not sure what it tells me.

So I can jump the connector pins from the master switch connector and get the motor to wind the window up and down. But when plugged in the switch does not work.

Here's how I jumped the pins to make the window move.

DOWN
BLACK jumped to BLUE/GREEN
BLUE jumped to GREEN

UP
BLUE jumped to BLUE/GREEN
BLACK jumped to GREEN

So reversing the polarity changes the direction of the window motor (as we already previously confirmed at the motor, but also here at the master switch connector). Also, I get about 12V between BLACK and BLUE. I also took all of the wrapping off the wiring harness and checked what I could for wire problems, but it's a crazy number of wires. I focused particularly on the 4 wires in question. I also disconnected the connector at the A-pillar (from the door) there was a tiny but of copper corrosion (green) on the bottom (6 O-Clock) pin which I believe is the BLACK ground wire, so I cleaned it and put it back together. Still no master switch functionality.

So what does this mean? Does it mean that the brand new master switch (Volvo, not aftermarket) from FCPEuro is defective? Or is there some other gremlin that I need to chase?

Any ideas?

Thanks again.
Chris

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 Aug 2014, 08:30

You have confirmed that the window motor works and that you are getting power into the door. Do the other three windows work OK from the master switch now?

My problem with immediately saying that the switch is bad is the fact that you replaced the switch due to the same problem.

Use an Ohmmeter to check continuity between master switch pins A:2 to A:3 and A:4 (Individually) and then again between A:1 to A:3 and A:4 (Again individually). Make a chart that lists the results between each contact pair for each switch position and post it back.

...Lee

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 11 Aug 2014, 10:45

The two rear windows work from the master switch.

The front driver's window only goes down with the master switch. The passenger's window doesn't go up or down with the master switch. But it does operate up and down with the passenger door switch.

I will check continuity as you suggest.

Thank you.

cbdbcbdb · Post by **cbdbcbdb** » 29 Nov 2014, 16:48

Well, it's been a long time. My son has been living with the lack of front windows for over 6 months. Not such a big deal now that it's colder. I finally had some time to dig into this further today and now I believe it is a defective NEW Volvo master switch. Follow my logic and let me know if you agree.

1. When master switch is plugged in, back windows work as designed from the master switch and from each individual window switch. Front passenger window rolls down but NOT up from the master switch, but it rolls down and up from the passenger window. Front driver window rolls down but not up from the master switch.

2. Disconnected the door hinge connector and checked continuity between it and the master switch connector for the wires in question (primarily black and black, but I checked several others as well. They all checked out. I wiggled the wires and bent them around a bit as I checked it to see it anything was intermittent, and they all looked good. For those who have never checked this round connector at the door hinge, if you pull and push the wire in question from the door you will see the individual connector on the door wiggle in and out. I also used the wiring diagrams with pin callouts to confirm.

3. Checked the continuity on the switch itself. With the switch disconnected completely, used a multimeter to probe the pins on the A-connector in question. This is what I found.

A2 to A3 reads 730000 ohms (essentially an open circuit, but odd) with the switch in the NATURAL position.
A2 to A3 reads 312000 ohms (also essentially open) with the switch in the DOWN position.
A2 to A3 reads 1 (open) with the switch in the UP position
A2 to A4 reads exactly the same as A2 to A3 in all positions. Identical

A1 to A3 reads 0 (closed) in all positions (NATURAL, DOWN and UP)
A1 to A4 reads 0 (closed) in all positions also.

4. Last, With the master switch still disconnected, I used jumpers to jump the different sockets on the wiring connector (the A-connector that goes onto the master switch. It's the white one, not the gray one). The goal was to send the voltage as the swtich should and see if the windows respond. Here's what I found for the drivers side

To move the window UP: Jump Blue(A2) to Blue/Green(A3) AND jump Black(A1) to Green(A4)
To move the window DOWN: Jump Black(A1) to Blue/Green(A3) AND jump Blue(A2) to Green(A4)

So I can manually perform the function of the master switch and make the windows move, but plugging in the master switch, they do not perform as designed.

I'd like to hear your thoughts.

Thanks,
Chris

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 29 Nov 2014, 18:58

Bad switch. That is rare with an OEM Volvo part. With a Dorman or some other off brand I wouldn't be at all surprised but I've never encountered a bad OEM part out of the box.

...Lee