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04 xc90 D5 An ever growing list of problems

A mid-size luxury crossover SUV, the Volvo XC90 made its debut in 2002 at the Detroit Motor Show. Recognized for its safety, practicality, and comfort, the XC90 is a popular vehicle around the world. The XC90 proved to be very popular, and very good for Volvo's sales numbers, since its introduction in model year 2003 (North America). P2 platform.
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JB50
Posts: 10
Joined: 20 August 2014
Year and Model: XC90 D5 04
Location: Surrey

04 xc90 D5 An ever growing list of problems

Post by JB50 »

Hi, what a great forum.

I bought a 2004 D5 at auction just over a week ago. It had 85000 miles and "full service history". I think I have made a bad mistake! Turns out the "full service history" was only stamps in the service book, a couple of which are garages with no contact numbers. I love cars and have owned and worked on too many to remember. I have had Mitsubishis, Jaguars, Audis, BMWs, Porsche, Lexus etc. This is my first ever Volvo and I thought it would be good to try. So far it isn't going well and I haven't been impressed.

It seems from browsing the net that most of the issues I have found are common but these are mine:-

1) Vibrating engine. The shake in the cabin on this car is unbelievable, to the point where I am taking it out of drive and putting it in neutral in stop start traffic to try to find a sweet spot where my passengers and I don't feel like we are driving over cobbles. The car is at its worst when standing still. Everything I have read would seem to suggest that engine mounts are to blame. The lower front engine mount with the vacuum hose looks very shiny and new. I believe that the torque rod and the top mount are the problem. I can move the torque rod backwards and forwards easily and I can move the actual mount left and right on the engine by hand. The rubber appears to be free to slide in the mount. Moving this mount around with the engine running does change the feel in the cabin. I thought this was the obvious fix until I read somewhere that this is normal and that this isn't really an engine mount so much as a crash bar? Any advice would be gratefully received!

2) Smoking engine from dipstick and filler cap. When the engine was shaking around I noticed an oil leak underneath the car and signs of oil running down the cam cover from the oil cap. I am not sure why, but this made me open the oil cap while the engine was running. I was horrified to see quite a lot of white steamy vapour coming out.

The internet seems to be a hotbed of misinformation on this. Youtube videos show plenty of D5 engines doing the same and the stock reply seems to be "PCV valve". It took me a while to work out that this diesel engine doesn't even have a PCV valve! I took out the oil separator and it was beautifully clean. I checked the breather hoses and they are clear. I separated the system at the oil separator and found that the hose that goes up to the turbo pipe had a little suction on it. I refitted everything and I then realised that a bit above idle revs the vapour stops coming out of the oil filler. I joined this forum specifically because I then found a 2 year old post by jimmy57 explaining this which makes sense. I have now concluded that this vapour is normal. I did think it might be a problem with worn rings, but the car doesn't smoke and seems to have plenty of power and at least thanks to VOSA I know the mileage is genuine. I would still love to see what comes out of the oil filler cap on a known good car though.

3) Oil leak. Someone must have steam cleaned the engine bay for the auction. The car is leaking like a sieve! First of all the oil cap. A small pool of oil kept appearing on the cam cover. I bought a new cap seal from Volvo. I was gutted to still have a leak after a good run. I slightly tightened the tangs on the cap and it hasn't leaked from here since, but I don't trust it! Is it a lack of a baffle that causes this oil to work so hard at getting out? Is this common?

I am now running the car around with the top and bottom covers removed. Oil is still appearing on the sump after a run, but not under the drain plug. It's more in line with the oil cooler. Is there anything higher up I should be looking at?

4) Parking brake. It just doesn't work. My drive is a slope. It held it once, but won't again. I am going to check the shoes but what earthly advantage does this have over a normal handbrake!

5) Brake steer. I have noticed that at any proper speed, ie 40mph and up, touching the brakes gives a little steer to the car. The steering wheel doesn't move. I can only assume that this is worn bushes. Is there a typical culprit? One rear tyre is badly worn on the inner edge, but then again that was probably moved from the front, knowing my luck!

6) Air filter. The lid doesn't fit the box! It is as if either the lid or the box has distorted and I can see the edge of the filter. Is this normal, or just mine? That said, vibrations aside the engine sounds good and pulls very well.

7) Steering oil cooler. I just noticed pas fluid leaking close to where the hose goes into the cooler pipe. At least I thought it was there. On closer examination it looks as though it is the actual metal pipe that is leaking just inside the bushing on the bracket that holds it to the front of the radiator. Is this a common fail? Could I shorten the metal pipe a bit and get a little more length out of the rubber hose or perhaps sleeve this section of metal pipe in rubber hose. Has anyone repaired these?

8) Alarm service required. Every time I get in the car this message displays. It only seems to have happened since I set the alarm of with the remote key. Will this message ever go on its own?

9) Cup holder. I stripped and rebuilt this as it wouldn't stay shut. I had to glue back 3 broken bits of plastic. This mechanism and plastic quality was more like I expect to find when repairing my children's toys!

10) Stereo. This is very good but what are the controls in the rear pillar behind seat row 2 supposed to do?

11) Fake wood. The car has lovely full black leather, sat nav that rises from the dash and even rear dvds. It is spoiled by a couple of bits of plastic wood that resemble the wood my Nan had on a sideboard in the 1970s. Is there a quick fix? I was wondering where I could by a roll of carbon fibre look sticky stuff.

As well as all of the above, I also have the car booked in for a Volvo health check on Saturday. I guess this will tell me I need a new car and double my list! Any advice on any of the points above would be greatly appreciated because I shall be working through the list as well as doing a cambelt change. (Another mystery, the cambelt cover bolt is missing)

JB50
Posts: 10
Joined: 20 August 2014
Year and Model: XC90 D5 04
Location: Surrey

Post by JB50 »

The Volvo Health Check was very thorough and very useful and I have to say I was impressed. The while you wait cappuccinos were good too. The vibration at idle was the lower right engine mount which had collapsed. A new mount and the car has been transformed. I will be replacing the torque rod bushes and top mount as well because I can't believe the difference one new mount has made.

The engine vapour is normal. Per Volvo "yes, these engines do breathe a lot"

Brake steer was lower control arm bushes.

This car is going to be ok.

Stravlr
Posts: 55
Joined: 25 June 2014
Year and Model: 2004 XC90 T6
Location: Lumberton, NJ

Post by Stravlr »

I made comments in Bold/Red below.

Scott
JB50 wrote:Hi, what a great forum.

I bought a 2004 D5 at auction just over a week ago. It had 85000 miles and "full service history". I think I have made a bad mistake! Turns out the "full service history" was only stamps in the service book, a couple of which are garages with no contact numbers. I love cars and have owned and worked on too many to remember. I have had Mitsubishis, Jaguars, Audis, BMWs, Porsche, Lexus etc. This is my first ever Volvo and I thought it would be good to try. So far it isn't going well and I haven't been impressed.

It seems from browsing the net that most of the issues I have found are common but these are mine:-

1) Vibrating engine. The shake in the cabin on this car is unbelievable, to the point where I am taking it out of drive and putting it in neutral in stop start traffic to try to find a sweet spot where my passengers and I don't feel like we are driving over cobbles. The car is at its worst when standing still. Everything I have read would seem to suggest that engine mounts are to blame. The lower front engine mount with the vacuum hose looks very shiny and new. I believe that the torque rod and the top mount are the problem. I can move the torque rod backwards and forwards easily and I can move the actual mount left and right on the engine by hand. The rubber appears to be free to slide in the mount. Moving this mount around with the engine running does change the feel in the cabin. I thought this was the obvious fix until I read somewhere that this is normal and that this isn't really an engine mount so much as a crash bar? Any advice would be gratefully received!

These: http://www.vivaperformance.com/strut-ba ... rsion-kit/
& This:
http://www.vivaperformance.com/upper-en ... -s80-xc90/

Will help greatly. Then check the front mount and torque strap.


2) Smoking engine from dipstick and filler cap. When the engine was shaking around I noticed an oil leak underneath the car and signs of oil running down the cam cover from the oil cap. I am not sure why, but this made me open the oil cap while the engine was running. I was horrified to see quite a lot of white steamy vapour coming out.

The internet seems to be a hotbed of misinformation on this. Youtube videos show plenty of D5 engines doing the same and the stock reply seems to be "PCV valve". It took me a while to work out that this diesel engine doesn't even have a PCV valve! I took out the oil separator and it was beautifully clean. I checked the breather hoses and they are clear. I separated the system at the oil separator and found that the hose that goes up to the turbo pipe had a little suction on it. I refitted everything and I then realised that a bit above idle revs the vapour stops coming out of the oil filler. I joined this forum specifically because I then found a 2 year old post by jimmy57 explaining this which makes sense. I have now concluded that this vapour is normal. I did think it might be a problem with worn rings, but the car doesn't smoke and seems to have plenty of power and at least thanks to VOSA I know the mileage is genuine. I would still love to see what comes out of the oil filler cap on a known good car though.

Check the PCV system it may be plugged.

3) Oil leak. Someone must have steam cleaned the engine bay for the auction. The car is leaking like a sieve! First of all the oil cap. A small pool of oil kept appearing on the cam cover. I bought a new cap seal from Volvo. I was gutted to still have a leak after a good run. I slightly tightened the tangs on the cap and it hasn't leaked from here since, but I don't trust it! Is it a lack of a baffle that causes this oil to work so hard at getting out? Is this common?

I am now running the car around with the top and bottom covers removed. Oil is still appearing on the sump after a run, but not under the drain plug. It's more in line with the oil cooler. Is there anything higher up I should be looking at?

Again I strongly suggest you look into the PCV. As well as the oil trap.

4) Parking brake. It just doesn't work. My drive is a slope. It held it once, but won't again. I am going to check the shoes but what earthly advantage does this have over a normal handbrake!

5) Brake steer. I have noticed that at any proper speed, ie 40mph and up, touching the brakes gives a little steer to the car. The steering wheel doesn't move. I can only assume that this is worn bushes. Is there a typical culprit? One rear tyre is badly worn on the inner edge, but then again that was probably moved from the front, knowing my luck!

6) Air filter. The lid doesn't fit the box! It is as if either the lid or the box has distorted and I can see the edge of the filter. Is this normal, or just mine? That said, vibrations aside the engine sounds good and pulls very well.

7) Steering oil cooler. I just noticed pas fluid leaking close to where the hose goes into the cooler pipe. At least I thought it was there. On closer examination it looks as though it is the actual metal pipe that is leaking just inside the bushing on the bracket that holds it to the front of the radiator. Is this a common fail? Could I shorten the metal pipe a bit and get a little more length out of the rubber hose or perhaps sleeve this section of metal pipe in rubber hose. Has anyone repaired these?

8) Alarm service required. Every time I get in the car this message displays. It only seems to have happened since I set the alarm of with the remote key. Will this message ever go on its own?

If you are going to own and work on your XC90 I recommend that you purchase Vida/Dice clone it will help immensely.

9) Cup holder. I stripped and rebuilt this as it wouldn't stay shut. I had to glue back 3 broken bits of plastic. This mechanism and plastic quality was more like I expect to find when repairing my children's toys!

10) Stereo. This is very good but what are the controls in the rear pillar behind seat row 2 supposed to do?

The rear passengers can plug in headphones and listen to either a CD or radio different than what the driver is listening to. The controls have 4 independent volume and forward/back controls. Very cool.

11) Fake wood. The car has lovely full black leather, sat nav that rises from the dash and even rear dvds. It is spoiled by a couple of bits of plastic wood that resemble the wood my Nan had on a sideboard in the 1970s. Is there a quick fix? I was wondering where I could by a roll of carbon fibre look sticky stuff.

As well as all of the above, I also have the car booked in for a Volvo health check on Saturday. I guess this will tell me I need a new car and double my list! Any advice on any of the points above would be greatly appreciated because I shall be working through the list as well as doing a cambelt change. (Another mystery, the cambelt cover bolt is missing)

Good luck, post often and search more there is a lot of very good DIY info here.

Scott

JB50
Posts: 10
Joined: 20 August 2014
Year and Model: XC90 D5 04
Location: Surrey

Post by JB50 »

Thanks Scott

It is slowly coming together. I really didn't like the car when I wrote this post. Now that the vibration is fixed the car has become a pleasure to be in, so it is growing on me.

I will take your advice and look for the Vida/Dice clone. I am a bit old school as I used to rebuild my 70s/80s Ford engines and computers weren't required, but I guess they are necessary now.

Next job is to replace the lower arms but my old faithful 23 year old Mitsubishi Pajero has pushed in front of the queue for the garage for some MOT repairs.

Stravlr
Posts: 55
Joined: 25 June 2014
Year and Model: 2004 XC90 T6
Location: Lumberton, NJ

Post by Stravlr »

The lower control arms are ~45min per side. Easy. Get new ball joints while you're in there. Leave all three bolts on the frame side very loose, install the ball joint in the control arm and tighten it down. You'll need a long prybar/lever to force the arm down to get the top of the ball joint into the spindle, then just tighten it all down.

Stravlr
Posts: 55
Joined: 25 June 2014
Year and Model: 2004 XC90 T6
Location: Lumberton, NJ

Post by Stravlr »

almost forgot - buy the whole control arm, with the bushings you'll save a ton of time not pressing the old ones in/out of the original control arm.

JB50
Posts: 10
Joined: 20 August 2014
Year and Model: XC90 D5 04
Location: Surrey

Post by JB50 »

Quick update:-

The engine doesn't vibrate around at all any more.

Changing the lower control arms and drop links have transformed handling and made the car feel strong and safe. The bush in one arm was so knackered that the inner part fell out when I took the arm off!

I also decided to change the timing belt for good measure. What a nice easy job that is on the Volvo. I had everything stripped down and the old one removed in 1 and half hours and I was taking my time and being careful on my front drive. I could have got everything back even more quickly but with the crankshaft pulley off I noticed that one of the oil pump bolts was loose? The pump actually looked new. This loose bolt seemed to be contributing to my various oil leaks. I took the pump out and replaced the paper gasket, o ring and then the crankshaft oil seal. For the first time after doing all of this I got back from a drive without any oil on the bottom of the sump. I still reckon something might be leaking up above the oil cooler though.

I still need to sort out the alarm siren to clear the alarm service message and then as the car was being reversed out of the MOT station, having passed, the "park assist service required" message came up. More fun!

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FLXC90
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Post by FLXC90 »

Alarm service required is probably the siren relay behind the near side (to you) front wing splash guard. I've seen a write-up on it, but I can't remember where. it involves drilling out rivets from the splash guard to access the relay. Does your sunroof work? If you have one, and it doesn't, that is also tied to the siren relay. Also, if you have a sunroof, pull the A-pillar covers and make sure your sunroof drains are clear as a preventive maintenance action. Otherwise you get a wet floor, and it will flood, corrode, and kill your DSTC yaw-rate sensor, taking the Stability control, ABS, and AWD out in one fell swoop. The yaw-rate sensor is in the floor beneath the stereo amp, under your driver's seat. Easy access to take a peek, just for your peace of mind. A-pillar covers come off by popping out the screw-cover tabs, taking out the screws, and gently pulling the covers. The drain elbows cause the clog, as they fill with debris. A common cheat is to open up the cross-shaped opening by cutting back the rubber. (someone cheated mine by putting a spark plug lead boot on it!)

Oh yeah and remember it's a diesel, no PCV to mess with, That's a default gas engine problem.

Cheers

Patrick
Current Volvos:
1998 V70 T5, 112k sat 5 years, still in mechanical coma (finally at the top of the pile )
2004 XC90 T6 AWD: 186k, 60 on transaxle ( traded in )
1998 POS70 N/A: DD/training aid, 236k but really about 240k, I think...ABS module( passed on to son who sold it)

JB50
Posts: 10
Joined: 20 August 2014
Year and Model: XC90 D5 04
Location: Surrey

Post by JB50 »

No sunroof, thankfully. I have had a few cars with sunroofs over the years and once they start to leak they are very difficult to stop leaking!

I agree about the likely cause of the alarm siren message. I am not keen on buying a replacement one though. Car alarms are universally ignored and I have CCTV at my house. My best security measure is that all of my neighbours have more desirable cars :)

I was wondering if there is a cheap easy alternative to fool the car into not displaying the alarm siren message especially as it still activates the horn anyway?

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