'98 S70 GLT - replace air pump?

DanK · Post by **DanK** » 29 Jan 2007, 11:26

Have a '98 S70 GLT with 138K miles. Check engine light is on due to codes EFI 442 and 446 according to dealership. Dealership says I need a new air pump $780 total install. Is the dealership correct or trying to make a quick buck? Please advise. Thanks!

Post by **billofdurham** » 29 Jan 2007, 11:49

Welcome to matthew's Volvo Site.

My books show that 442 is Secondary air injection (AIR) pump relay, not necessarily the pump itself.

The relay is in the main fuse box at position #2.

I can find no reference to 446.

Bill.

Post by **pfeener** » 29 Jan 2007, 12:56

Most likely they are correct. This is a very common repair. I have a 98 S70 with almost 200K miles and I'm on my 3rd pump.

The dealer probably quoted you on a pump, relay and SAS valve. The SAS valve is usually the root cause of the problem. Usually what happens is the SAS valve leaks and allows exhaust gas into the pump chamber where it condenses and evantually fills the pump with water. List price on the parts is in the $550 - $600 range and it's about 1.5 hours labor, so their price is fair for a dealership.

The repair isn't all that difficult. If you'd like to do it yourself answer back and we can guide you. You can purchase the parts through several outlets at a discounted rate for about $400 or if you're adventurous you can pick up a used VW pump and modify it. (check out the repair section of this forum for more info) I bought my last pump on ebay for $50.

Also the good news is that the air pump function is strickly for emissions, it won't affect the drivability of the car in any way, you just need it to pass emissions testing.

Post by **JRL** » 29 Jan 2007, 16:36

I have a guaranteed used air pump if you want to save yourself some money.
IM me here

DanK · Post by **DanK** » 31 Jan 2007, 08:16

Thanks Bill and pfeener for the advice. Just got bad news though. Went for oil change and radiator is about ready to go. I noticed a small antifreeze leak. Mechanic said the connection off the radiator is rotted, and can go anytime. New radiator on order. Hoping it doesn't go before the new one is installed.

Back to the air pump, would a new pump relay fix the problem? I'm reading on this forum that a 410 code is the air pump. My code is 442. With a 138K miles, and I drive 25K per year, I don't want to put any more money into this car than I have to. NYS inspection in Feb07. May have to disconnect the battery cable the day before to pass.

Thanks again. GREAT FORUM!!!

Post by **JRL** » 31 Jan 2007, 12:04

You can't just disconnect the battery and have it inspected, it won't pass
You have to get the car's computer "ready" for emisions which means a drive for over 50 miles and hopefully the CEL won't come right back during that time.
A bad air pump makes noise (a whining, whirring noise) on start up. If you don't have the noise, your air pump is not the cause of the problem

DanK · Post by **DanK** » 31 Jan 2007, 12:31

Hi JRL. Thanks for the tip. I do have that whinning noise at start-up. I know I have to fix, but I want to buy some time before I fix. I drive 100 miles per day. I will get my car inspected on a Sat morn. in Feb. I'll do a test this week to see how long the CEL stays off.

Post by **pfeener** » 31 Jan 2007, 13:31

The pump will operate making excessive noise for awhile, but eventually it will get so full of water that it will just quit. Usually when it's still making noise you won't get the 410 code because even though it's noisy it's still pumping air.

I believe the difference in the 442 code the dealer gave you and the 410 code is the 442 code is the code the Volvo diags gives the dealer and the 410 is the generic OBDII code. Bottom line the dealer's diagnostics will give different codes for the same failure, but the end result is the same. If you plug in a generic OBDII reader, you'll most likely get the 410 code.

You may be able to pass emissions. It varies by state, but what the heck, give it a shot. If you can pass emissions testing with the air pump shot, you can drive it forever. The CEL wil usually take a couple days to come back on. If you drive a lot on the highway it may only take one day.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 31 Jan 2007, 20:04

If not completely seized up yet, I would drill 2 small holes in the bottom of the air pump to let the water out...spray some lubricant in there and hope for the best. You know that the real culprit is the SAS valve that's letting water into the air pump so that's going to need to be changed out when you get a new pump.

DanK · Post by **DanK** » 01 Feb 2007, 09:55

Thanks everyone. This looks like a weekend project for my buddy and I. I'm pretty handy, so hopefully it will only take one Saturday.

Does anyone have the instructions to install a new pump, SAS valve, and relay for a S70 GLT? Any special tools required?

Regarding drilling 2 holes at the bottom...how long would that work for? Would that clear the CEL? Should I remove the pump first before I drill?

Thank you all. It is very much appreciated. Hopefully I'll be able to assist someone down the road.

Dan