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99 S70 T5 Suspension uprgade advice.

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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c70_lindsay
Posts: 143
Joined: 2 April 2011
Year and Model: 99 S70 T5.
Location: Canada
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99 S70 T5 Suspension uprgade advice.

Post by c70_lindsay »

I think its time to replace the springs and struts on my s70. They are original and the car has 180,000 KM. I really love the car but I would like it to handle a little more like my old 2000 C70. I was thinking of oem struts and ipd lowering springs. I just was hoping for a little advice on weather these parts would work well together. I don't want to spend a huge amount of money. I think this would be a good place to start and then maybe if I still don't like the handling I might go with aftermarket anti-roll bars. Thanks!! Tim

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RussB
Posts: 570
Joined: 15 July 2014
Year and Model: '00 S70, '04 S60
Location: connecticut
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Post by RussB »

Factor in the cost of spring seats and strut mounts as well, along with bellows and bump stops. Those parts are used up by now.

No matter how you shake it, it's not going be cheap
'00 S70, '04 S60 and the never ending quest for Stage Zero

timmybdaddyof3
Posts: 119
Joined: 14 August 2014
Year and Model: 1998 V70 T5
Location: Arizona USA
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Post by timmybdaddyof3 »

Unfortunately I have no direct experience with the parts you are discussing. What i will say is after doing the research for my 98 v70 Eibach seems to be the only company who puts out a progressive spring for our cars. That being said I have used progressive Eibach on many of my cars with stock shocks and been very happy with the results...very close to a factory ride (a little more control and connected with out being too firm or harsh), and become truly awesome when the car starts to load up. Twice I went with other brand (HKS and Koni) and was not happy with the ride at all for a daily driver and pulled them out within a month. All that being said, a lot of it comes down to personal preference....i drive about 50k miles per year; ride quality is important, and if there is a "canyon road" that needs carving on the way to my destination I will make sure that happens as well.

And as RussB said, plan on replacing a minimum of the seats and mounts... personally when i do the work i replace every bushing I can while I am down there (control arms, sway bar, all ball joints, etc). Keep in mind that tightening up one part of the system only moves the stress point to the next weakest link, and with our cars being 15 years old, rubber is a weak link. As a side note in regards to bushings, don't buy into the hype of urethane or poly being better than factory rubber...again, its personal preference. Poly and urethane will last longer and be much firmer, but rubber will be more compliant. Personally I have always stayed with rubber and am willing to replace them at 50k intervals (which in my case is about a year)...Its extra work and maybe some money, but it makes for a smooth ride.

Sway bars will make a BIG difference in tightening up the body control element.

Sorry for the rambling, and as RussB stated, unfortunately the good options are not cheap, but when the job is done right the satisfaction is immense.

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