98 V70 AWD Battery Issue

Post by **rmmagow** » 12 Sep 2014, 09:12

Bad battery or drain. If I take the multi-meter, set it to current and touch it across between the + and - posts on the battery, ignition off and basically get a 0 to 0.1 reading, that's sort of OK right? I'm pretty sure my battery is toast but wanted to check for unknown draw before bring it in for a test. I've fully charged the battery, car starts and runs fine. Let it sit for more than 48 hours though and no start. Put the charger on for 1~2 hours and all is fine again.

Post by **kahl** » 12 Sep 2014, 09:57

hi Rm, from you describe your battery is at the end of it's life. A load test at the auto parts store will confirm. FYI I got a battery from the Volvo dealer for $110.00 for the S80 last November. I think it was 850CCA. Yea, I could not believe it either.

Post by **rmmagow** » 12 Sep 2014, 10:57

Pretty decent price. I'll probably do AZ. I've had good luck with their batteries but it'll be near 135.00 for the damn thing.

Post by **timmybdaddyof3** » 12 Sep 2014, 11:13

Honestly, look for an interstate dealer, thats all I'll sell (heat out here in Arizone kills batteries fast, AZ gold's etc are usually good for about 2 years, interstates we see 4-5) then if you want a deal look for their "Blems"...you may need to find an old-timer to know what you are talking about, but its effectively a mislabeled battery that they cant sell so it will be seriously discounted

Post by **abscate** » 12 Sep 2014, 11:30

rmmagow wrote:Bad battery or drain. If I take the multi-meter, set it to current and touch it across between the + and - posts on the battery, ignition off and basically get a 0 to 0.1 reading, that's sort of OK right? I'm pretty sure my battery is toast but wanted to check for unknown draw before bring it in for a test. I've fully charged the battery, car starts and runs fine. Let it sit for more than 48 hours though and no start. Put the charger on for 1~2 hours and all is fine again.

You never connect a voltmeter in current in parallel ((+-) in a circuit, only in series. A newer voltmeter will have protection circuit in it, an older one will burn out. A voltmeter in current mode is electrically like a single jumper cable.

Your symptoms are textbook end of life on battery. I have gotten sporadic life out of AZ product with one year being the shortest.

Post by **rmmagow** » 12 Sep 2014, 12:26

Thanks abscate although I have no real clue about the voltmeter thing. I think I have about 12 of those laying around anyway. I was trying to see if the car was drawing power while the ignition was off. I've got an AZ in my old Mercedes diesel that's held up for 5 years now. The only battery I ever bought that disappointed me was a DieHard.
How would I hook in series? Just curious.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Sep 2014, 12:40

Series connection is like lengthening a piece of wire in a circuit.

You remove one battery cable, separate it from the post, touch one lead to the post and the other to cable metal part. Any current leaking in your electrical system MUST flow through your meter, so it gets measured.

Because all flow has to complete circuit, it doesn't matter which terminal you use, but most pull the negative terminal as it's safer, and should be removed before you remove the positive anyhow.

instarx · Post by **instarx** » 12 Sep 2014, 13:19

rmmagow wrote:Bad battery or drain. If I take the multi-meter, set it to current and touch it across between the + and - posts on the battery, ignition off and basically get a 0 to 0.1 reading, that's sort of OK right? I'm pretty sure my battery is toast but wanted to check for unknown draw before bring it in for a test. I've fully charged the battery, car starts and runs fine. Let it sit for more than 48 hours though and no start. Put the charger on for 1~2 hours and all is fine again.

Dirt on the battery between poles can cause a slow current drain. If it's really filthy clean it off and see if that helps. But you are probably right that it needs replaced, and with winter coming up...

Post by **rmmagow** » 12 Sep 2014, 13:23

Abscate, "sheepish grin" damn, I knew that, probably done it a thousand times. guess my 60+ yo parts are beginning to fall apart sort of like my 16 yo Volvo. At least the Volvo can be fixed

Did it right and still pretty close to zero. Bad batt to be replaced this aft. No clue how old it is so just replace, check my B+ cables and grounds and be done with it.
Thanks

Post by **rmmagow** » 12 Sep 2014, 16:52

New battery installed, 14.55 volts while engine running at idle, 13 and change with car off. All fixed, 129 for a battery 5yr warranty.