98 v70GLT Front Caliper toast? Leak when depressing...

[mecheng]

To release the bleeder valves, after spraying penetrating oil, tap the valve with a hammer to make the lubricant penetrate further. Tap it axially so as not to bend it, give it a few decent but not overally hard taps. I would try Liquid Wrench, I found it works better in some instances than PB. PB works well on rubber.

When removing it, use a socket not a wrench! A wrench can strip it. If it is slightly rounded, use vice grips, it will be damaged but it will release. Then replace it with a new valve. I've been there, done that and I was always able to get them free but takes some patience.

As for bleeding, I tried a Vac pump but it broke so I've always used the Type Wifey version since. Just make sure you put a piece of wood under the pedal so you are not engaging the secondary piston with your foot to the floor.

[TRuck]

...bleeder valve is already broken off in the rear left caliper.

[850 LPT]

Motive Pressure Bleeder or co-operative other has been the only way I've gotten a good bleed. The vacuum method never worked well for me. Speed bleeders are supposed to work ok, but I don't trust them either.

+1

Motive Power Bleeders make brake bleeding very easy and they are effective, but they are not cheap. I use mine fairly often since I service our 4 cars myself, so it was well worth the money.
I just used mine last weekend because I changed out my front calipers with rebuilt ones. One of them I thought was sticking a little. And when I replaced my brakes a while back, I noticed the dust boot was in sad shape.
The car is still pulling to one side, so I'm changing out the rear calipers next weekend. They are just getting old now.
I'm sorry that I didn't pay attention to my brakes sooner, the fluid was very dark. I could have probably prevented the damage to the calipers.

[TRuck]

thanks,
can't afford one at the moment. And haven't had time to get back to it yet.
when I do I will try to bleed them one more time. If it doesn't work will have to take to mech.
time time time....and $$ ..but I love my ol V70 & would like to see her turn 300k ...
I'll report back when I have an update.
thanks all

[TRuck]

....so to conclude, finally (hate leaving a thing un-done)

Ended up just replacing the rear left caliper that had the broken off bleeder rather than try to extract. Turns out that one of the pistons in it was frozen anyway. So....good.

....and since i replaced it of course i replaced the rotor/pads
.....and since I did that side.....of course I did the right rear caliper/rotor/pads too.
Ebrake had virtually disintegrated on left side.
So ended up with basically a brake overhaul.....that's what credit cards are for .....right?

After the install
I tried bleeding it again. Did the two man method. held catch jar above caliper, and opened bleeder just barely. Got MUCH better results. However, still very spongy (I blame my neighbor's pedal pumping... ). Took it to a mech to bleed it. Another $70...ouch, but they work really well now, and he said my instal looked all-good....which helped take the sting out of my defeat. Next time I will spend the $70 on a good bleeder, or air compressor. But was just out of time on this one....and I have to do all my work on the street (no garage or driveway) so set up and break down is a real pain....plus the people walking by saying..."you're just going to have to get a new car man...let it go"....sigh

for any newbies (like me) that may be going to do this job:
propane torch is a must
go slow use lots of PB blaster/wd40, let it really soak in on those connections and bolts. I had to soak them..turn maybe half rotation back and forth on connections. spray some more, wait...repeat....so to avoid breakage
don't waste your money on harbor freight crap
if car hasn't been worked on in a while....you might just plan on doing the whole thing. I would have saved money/time in the long run. rather than trying to do just front now and rear later.
my two cents

Thanks again everyone for your most excellent help.

[rmmagow]

Congrats TRuck. My old beast is at the mechanics right now for all the brake work. First time I ever had to do this for this car but at least I know it'll be done for a few years. I'm shooting for 300K too, it can make it

[TRuck]

thx
good luck with yours!

[dosbricks]

Nice job TRuck. I had this adventure this summer, including 4 rebuilt calipers on one car and 1 on the other. It was the first time both vehicles needed full front/rear brake jobs at the same time. IMHO, the Motive Power Bleeder pays for itself on the first use.

With admiration for your pulling this all off at curbside.

dos

[abscate]

Important note....truck put a wheel bolt into the rear rotor to make sure it was flat and true before adjusting that parking brake. This is important!

[jreed]

Those new rear brakes look gorgeous!
I built a power bleeder using a sprayer from Home Depot or Lowes plus a brake reservoir cap for a Volvo 240. I think it cost about $10 for the sprayer and about $5 for the cap. You need a couple fittings, clamps and hose to connect it up. It works pretty well for a home-made unit.

Homemade pressure bleeder

Brake Line 22.jpg (120.29 KiB) Viewed 889 times

On another related subject: who does high quality caliper rebuilds? I've seen NAPA, Nugeon, Cardone, ReTech, ProPartsSweden, and probably others. Prices range from $30 to $130. What do you guys recommend as a source for a high quality rebuild on the front calipers? Thanks.