2006 V70 Transmission fluid drain and fill with vacuum extra

jh_on_the_cape · Post by **jh_on_the_cape** » 03 Oct 2014, 07:46

Hi, there was a sticky thread on this a while back but I can no longer find it using the search.

I have read here not to do a full power flush of the transmission fluid on my 2006 with 160k miles. I had the mechanic do a drain and fill a while back, but it cost me $$ and I will like to do the next one myself. I have a vacuum extractor for oil changes, the kind you pump by hand.

If I put that in the transmission fluid dipstick hole, about how much do I expect to get out? I want to ask in advance before purchasing fluid.

Also, there are lots of ideas on which fluid to use. If I were at a regular NAPA auto parts, which would be the best fluid to use to replace.

Then I just need a funnel with a long skinny neck, right?

Thanks!

Post by **vtl** » 03 Oct 2014, 08:51

You don't want to use a vacuum pump. You want to raise front of your car, place pan under transmission and remove the drain bolt to properly evacuate all the fluid from transmission's sump, measure it and fill with exact same amount of fresh ATF through the dipstick.

Google for "Gibson ATF method".

jh_on_the_cape · Post by **jh_on_the_cape** » 03 Oct 2014, 09:15

I think you mean Gibbons. I thought a total flush could lead to problems if the fluid is very old?

Post by **vtl** » 03 Oct 2014, 09:30

Gibson, he-he... Yeah, I'm a guitar player too...

FLUSH is ATF change under pressure using a special machine. The one you want to do in garage is drain&fill. No risk here.

Post by **jimmy57** » 03 Oct 2014, 09:54

If you have no way to put car up on stands or on ramps then you could suck it out through dipstick. I have had these transmissions apart and the dipstick is a straight path to bottom of trans. IF you use suction then the front of the car being even 2 inches lower than rear (rear tires run up on two 2x4 pieces) would let fluid run to the front where the dipstick is located for a more complete capture.
Get 4 quarts. IT will take 3 1/2 more or less. I would put 3 1/2 in and then run it and check it.
The funnel needs to be 1/2 OD on end or it will not go into the dipstick tube. I have a funnel with a 8 inch length of 1/2 OD clear vinyl tubing that I use for these. The tubing can be pushed down through a funnel and will seal.

Most flush machines have a two step process. There is a flush chemical added and the machine runs the fluid through a filter with engine running for a few minutes. Then the second step is the machine has a reservoir and the new fluid is pushed in matched to the fluid coming out. There are other styles but this has become one of the most popular pushed by a company that also supplies fluid that is universal with a carline specific additive. The shop can use other fluids in it. These machines use adapters and are attached to a cooler line. The fluid comes into machine via the trans pump. The transmission pushes fluid through torque converter and cooler circuit is the fluid exiting TC since that is where the heat comes from.
You can disconnect a cooler line and start engine and let it run until the fluid flow stops. Then connect line and refill. This is messy even if you use a hose. Doing this three cycles is a pretty effective way to do a more or less complete flush. With your high milage I wouldn't do that. There is risk unless the trans has been serviced regularly. Some seals in some places in trans can be hardened from age and neglect and the full flush can dissolve a build up layer that has kept that seal sealing. The seal will no longer seal and harm can result. If you do multiple drain n fills with a few thousand miles between then the new fluid's fresh additives will liven up the rubber in the seals and not quickly dissolve the varnish layers.

jh_on_the_cape · Post by **jh_on_the_cape** » 03 Oct 2014, 10:31

Thanks. This is what I was looking for and had read elsewhere. I think this is much better than nothing and very easy.

Post by **jimmy57** » 03 Oct 2014, 11:26

I once was among those who would only use JW3309 Volvo or Mobil ATF.
I now know lots of 5 and 6 speed Volvos and other AW 5 speed equipped cars that have used Valvoline MaxLife ATF for tens of thousands of miles. Use the one listing use for Volvo 1161540 and Toyota T-IV. I did a drain n fill on my 215K high miler yesterday using it and that fluid now shows "Full Synthetic" on its label.

The critical additives for controlled slip of TC clutch and for linear transmission fluid solenoids are called for in many different fluid formulations so the "special sauce" is now no longer so special.

Post by **vtl** » 03 Oct 2014, 12:08

What is the point of keeping ATF in transmission for a long time? It accumulates a lot of worn clutch material... Which wears out bushings in solenoids and tight passages in VB.

Post by **jimmy57** » 03 Oct 2014, 16:36

I can only think of benefits for two groups: car manufacturers wanting to have lowwe near term maintenance costs and automatic trans shops wanting transmissions to overhaul.

Post by **abscate** » 04 Oct 2014, 05:05

Pure marketing of longer maintenance intervals bring perceived as higher quality.

My BMW dealer refused to change my slush drive oil at 120k. I'll drive that one to 150, so I'm torn as to whether I'll do it, the car gets light duty use only.