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Electricity completely out

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Battery Corrosion Stopping Electricity?
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cn2000
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Joined: 24 August 2006
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Post by cn2000 »

BTW, all the fuses you should care about will be in that distribution box. You mentioned you checked the others, but make sure you check the ones in there, as they are the main feed fuses.

lvrisk
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Joined: 8 February 2007
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Post by lvrisk »

cn2000 wrote:Forget the gauge on your battery charger. In my experience seldom do they actually work properly, and you it may be an ammeter and not a volt meter. A multimeter is great if you know how to use it (ie: set range, configure test leads, ect.) but buy a test light for basic troubleshooting- the bulb draws an amp or two and will better show you a voltage drop across a bad connection, whereas a meter can still read battery voltage if so much as one strand of a wire is intact, because it draws so little current. You can keep it in the car and wont regret the purchase.
Thanks for now, I have now got the test lamp, this is late, dark and cold in Bergen , so tomorrow morning will start with the tests:) you will hear what the outcome was.

lvrisk
Posts: 10
Joined: 8 February 2007
Year and Model:
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Post by lvrisk »

lvrisk wrote:
cn2000 wrote: but buy a test light for basic troubleshooting- the bulb draws an amp or two and will better show you a voltage drop across a bad connection, whereas a meter can still read battery voltage if so much as one strand of a wire is intact, because it draws so little current. You can keep it in the car and wont regret the purchase.
Hi there, fixed it finally. There was two issues : the mass wire connection to the car body was corroded badly. did not let through the electricity. I cleaned it properly. on top of that battery was badly worn out as well - namely, when I recharged it, the amp gauge showed full power and I assumed that so it is. But actually right after connecting it to the car it used up all the power in coupler of seconds- by the time I got into the car there was no signs of life. When I switched the ignition to position II the power went in 2 seconds or so. Now I got new battery and of course it worked immediately fine. Thanks everyone for support:)

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