DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

[cn90]

Because engineers tend to complicate simple matters.

[mecheng]

Because engineers tend to complicate simple matters.

Or you can say we are detail orientated as I have to be. I deal with 1 thousand of an inch making a design either good or bad.

I recall the inner boot having a different shape because it doesn't flex as much. But most importantly, the ID of each end of the boot must be identical (inner and outer) or it will leak.

Having done this job on my previous Honda, I know it is a PITA or can be so I'd like to be prepared. Wifey already complains I spend too much time in the garage, or watching tv.

[cn90]

The boots have same inner diameters, just different shapes.
I know it fit because if you look at my previous threads, I already dry fit the outer for inner.

All wives complain...Just drive the car to Walmart parking lot and fool around with it over there, this way you only have to listen to engine noise, which has less decibel than wife's noise lol...

[mecheng]

She leaves me to go to the gym with our little one yesterday and my electric impact gun woke the baby. Not fun having to stop, clean my hands, calm her down and then start back, lol I love my little one, so Walmart is out of the option

Do you know where the EMPI boots are made? And has anybody used CRP (Continential Rubber Products) for CV boots, they are readily available in a kit and are supposed to be good

[cn90]

Stick to GKN, this job is a lot of work. Only GKN boots last 80K-100K.

[northernlights]

I was changing to my winter tires and it looks like I may be the exception to the rule, my drivers Inner Boot is leaking grease from a crack in the boot. Outer boot is fine. Volvo OEM axels, not sure if PO repalced boots. I used a syringe for Childrens Tylenol and squeezed in lots of lithium grease and then sealed it with RTV silicone sealant to buy some time. Heck, it might even last for a while as the inner joint doesn't flex much.

My local parts supplier is able to source the GKN outer boot for a 98 t5 (Part number 31256240) for only $20 but not the inner boot (PN 31256230). The Volvo dealer wants $59 for the inner boot; which might be worth it as I don't want to have to do this twice?

How is everyone's inner boot made by EMPI or Rein boot holding up?
Where are they made?

Not sure if the inner boot on the car now is GKN, I see Germany stamped on it. Could it be Rein? Maybe PO replaced it? Thanks

Check out this post:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... p?p=332235

I've been using an Audi spec GKN boot for the inside due to lack of availability for the Volvo part. Price is great and I am certain they will last. Fit is essentially identical, and I've had no problems to date.

An OEM 98 axle I salvaged out of a C70 said Lobro on the inner boot, so I'd say that's who made them originally, i.e. GKN.

[mecheng]

NorthernLights from Florida: Nice write up! My parts guy is pretty helpful, he will let me order all of them to measure and pick what I want. I can measure all the parts and post the info.

Are you saying the stock Volvo Inner boot has the following dimensions:
89.5 mm length, 21.3 mm small end ID and 78 mm large end ID

And the Audi 100 Boot the following:
88 mm length, 21 mm small end ID, and 82 mm large end ID.

That is a very good match, except for maybe the large end ID? PS: Your grease weights don't match CN90s?

[cn90]

- The Audi boot will match, the difference in Volvo vs Audi spec is so tiny. This is rubber and can stretch a bit. You will be fine.

- Grease amount is for factory fitment. Since there is already old grease in there, scoop out old grease as much as you can. If the boot has been torn for sometime, chances are there is some dirt inside. So it is better to remove all the grease, wash all the balls, dry them and install new grease.

- Install the big clamp first.

- Do not install the small clamp yet: slide a small blunt screw driver under the boot's small lip. This way any extra air can escape and vice versa (if it is sucked in under vacuum, then you allow some air to get in). The idea is to have the boot shape in "neutral inflation" condition. This way the boot stays under neutral condition during its lifespan.

[mecheng]

When you are re-installing the control arms, do you need to remove the stabilizing bar like is done in the video below?:

[hausmeister]

You don't have to. I'm not sure why it would be needed... but you can do it without, at least I did.