voltage regulator affects starter?

[trimjimmy]

I have a 96 volvo 850 wagon which I love.
I noticed that it was taking more ummph to start, had the alternator checked while in the car, and found that my voltage regulator is not putting out full juice.
While researching the part, I put a trickle-charger on the battery most nights.
The battery is good, keeps 12.5V pretty much all the time, but the starting of the car continues to be more sluggish.
My question is: can a faulty voltage regulator, while in the car, affect other componnents, such as the starter?
Another question is which regulator to get. it seems that I have to pull the existing regulator to be sure.

[erikv11]

The bad regulator shouldn't harm the starter per se, but it will lead to a weak battery.

On replacing the regulator, you have it right: you must pull it to be sure, or you can check the part number on the alternator. See https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=61610.

[trimjimmy]

I've replaced the voltage regulator on the same car, different alternator, while the alt was still in place. Not easy, but seemingly easier than taking out the power steering assembly to remove the alternator.
I'm wondering about the plethora of regulators just on ebay that say they fit my car. Some don't even have the tab for the capacitor(?).

[erikv11]

I always do them in the car, with the alt in place, I agree it is totally the way to go. Especially on a non-turbo like your 96.

Since you have already replaced the VR once, do you have one of the old ones? Or just get a flashlight in there (or a cell phone camera) and get the part number off the alternator. As outlined in that post there are two types of VR and you can't swap between them on the same alternator. The plethora of ads on eBay, even the listings on the reputable car retailer web sites, will usually not mention that you need to know up front which type of alternator your 850 has.

Are you sure the slip ring is still in decent shape on the alternator? Worn slip rings will also lead to low voltage output. Just a possibility, I would suspect a bad VR. Just last month I had to go back in and replace a VR that I had replaced about 4 years ago.

[trimjimmy]

I don't know about the slip ring. I guess I need to do more research.
I got the numbers off the alternator in the car, googled them, and found a replacement for about $55 from National Quick Start. That's on the cheap end of the scale, whereas a Bosch VR (on ebay) listed for about $150.
The price and the information on the VR, as well as my impression of the company via their website gives me confidence.
Will I be able to check the slip ring when I am in the alt replacing the VR?
I wish I knew more.
I wish I knew why my starter is having an increasingly difficult time starting my car with the bad (yet still functioning) VR.
Will insufficient charging affect the cold cranking amps in my battery? Will the sitch gradually wear my battery down to death?

[rspi]

[Herb Goltz]

The bad voltage regulator will result in poor charging, and hence poor starting as well. Do some measurements with a voltmeter and post them here. What voltage do you measure across the battery terminals when the car is running? What do you measure between the red wire on the back of the alternator and chassis ground? Measure voltage drops on both the positive and negative cables, and on the B+ to the fuse box. You can have your battery checked for free at most auto parts stores-- the voltage you are measuring doesn't tell you much.

I've had good luck with ASPwholesale.com-- I found a voltage regulator/brush assembly there for about $45 when other places were quoting up to $160. I have also bought alternator parts for a Toyota that were cheaper than anything on ebay.

Good luck!

I don't know about the slip ring. I guess I need to do more research.
I got the numbers off the alternator in the car, googled them, and found a replacement for about $55 from National Quick Start. That's on the cheap end of the scale, whereas a Bosch VR (on ebay) listed for about $150.
The price and the information on the VR, as well as my impression of the company via their website gives me confidence.
Will I be able to check the slip ring when I am in the alt replacing the VR?
I wish I knew more.
I wish I knew why my starter is having an increasingly difficult time starting my car with the bad (yet still functioning) VR.
Will insufficient charging affect the cold cranking amps in my battery? Will the sitch gradually wear my battery down to death?

[erikv11]

I don't know about the slip ring. I guess I need to do more research.
I got the numbers off the alternator in the car, googled them, and found a replacement for about $55 from National Quick Start. That's on the cheap end of the scale, whereas a Bosch VR (on ebay) listed for about $150.
The price and the information on the VR, as well as my impression of the company via their website gives me confidence.
Will I be able to check the slip ring when I am in the alt replacing the VR?
I wish I knew more.
I wish I knew why my starter is having an increasingly difficult time starting my car with the bad (yet still functioning) VR.
Will insufficient charging affect the cold cranking amps in my battery? Will the sitch gradually wear my battery down to death?

So it sounds like your alternator is a Bosch 0 123 505 014? That alternator takes the LRC voltage regulator that is indeed very expensive for the Bosch part (Bosch 1-197-311-520). My interpretation is that the great majority of the aftermarket substitutes are pretty much the same Chinese-made part, as long as you go with a reputable supplier and don't jump at the $14.79 part on eBay, for $50 or so you will get a decent VR that will last about 4-5 years. Not a bad way to go when they are so easy to replace. Another option is to pull one from a junkyard alt, again because it is so easy to do. That will run you like $15 but you won;t know how long it will last.

Here is a pic from that thread I pointed you to up above, it has a VRB29 aftermarket VR (the one you need) and shows the shiny copper slip ring where the VR brushes sit:


You can inspect the slip ring on yours by pulling the plastic cover off the alt, either do it now or when you go in to replace the VR.

The starter is having trouble because the battery is not charging well. Yes you can ultimately kill the battery this way, you will want to replace the VR.

[trimjimmy]

thanks for the pic, and the previous links. Yes, my alt is 0-123-505-014
I'll see what happens with the VR that I had already ordered. That VRB229 looks good, but I don't see (or recognize) the shiny slip ring of which you speak in the picture of your rebuilt alt. Is that something on the arbor of the alt?
I noticed the VRB has a 14.2 set point. Did you find that adequate for your winter needs?
The one I ordered from National Quick Start was # IB520 - 12 Volt, A-Circuit, L Terminal, 14.1 Volt set point, 10 second LRC.
0-123-505-014
I learned something new in this mini-adventure: A battery showing 12.4 on the voltmeter is only 50% charged. I hope I get the new VR in time to save my battery
Another question: should I expect a VR to last the length of the brushes? You said they last about 4-5 years. This one I'm replacing came piggy-back on the alt I picked up at a salvage yard, about a year ago.
I been a busy guy, but I have overlooked opportunities to do the voltage testing on my charging system. I will post those soon, and should be able to have before/after results.

[erikv11]

That National Quick Start IB520 looks like a good buy, I will consider it if I need to buy one.

... the shiny copper slip ring where the VR brushes sit...

The slip ring is the only shiny copper piece in the picture. RIght in the middle, the VR brushes sit against it.

I said 4-5 years on the VR because that's what the aftermarket one lasted me. The brushes were still in good shape they last much longer, something internal failed and it was not putting out the right voltage.