2001 S60 Rapid Battery Drain

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 17 Nov 2014, 11:26

Hi everyone,

I've read through many posts concerning electrical problems for the S60, but have not found a similar problem with resolution. I have a "significant" short somewhere, but have not been able to locate it.
The battery drops 1V every ~15 minutes.
First I checked every fuse to see which ones had voltage. I then pulled those fuses and measured the current across the pins. The highest current I found was 240 mA on position 27 of interior bank of fuses. This is the "Front Door Module". I also found 59 mA on position 23 "Light Switch/Climate Control Module, OBD, Steering wheel module".
I would not expect either of these to kill my battery so quickly.

I have attached a matrix of current draw on each fuse (have not quite finished it yet, will update it later).

Anyone have suggestions where else to look? I figured I should smell the problem by now

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 17 Nov 2014, 11:28

oops forgot the attachment

draser · Post by **draser** » 17 Nov 2014, 16:44

Do all car electrical systems work? What's the voltage across battery with engine running?

CountryBum-kin · Post by **CountryBum-kin** » 17 Nov 2014, 16:53

Check and test battery,star motor,and alternator for faults.

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 18 Nov 2014, 13:37

I have taken the battery into local parts stores and checked twice - both times it was OK.
Also have checked the alternator twice at 2 part stores.

If I disconnect the battery while the car sits - no problem, it will start every time. Leave it connected for more than 10 minutes and it will not longer start.

No other problems with electrical system.

Today I will remove fuse #27 and see if the battery drains....

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 18 Nov 2014, 13:40

Oh yeah - voltage across battery while engine running is 13.6 volts every time I check it. Seems normal

Post by **abscate** » 18 Nov 2014, 13:46

Pull the 23 and 27 fuse and see if that at least stops the drain.

That voltage drop is so severe, I think the problem is somewhere else.

a 300 mA current draw is about 6x too high, but that will take about 250 hours to bring a Group 24 battery to 1/2 charge.

Post by **precopster** » 19 Nov 2014, 13:29

Window switches are known culprits. When the battery is low do you hear any clicking noises?

chv3ch · Post by **chv3ch** » 19 Nov 2014, 15:35

With the 23 and 27 fuse removed, the voltage drop is about 0.1 volts per 15 minutes. The voltage was at 12.5 volts with everything connected and ignition off. and 30 minutes later the battery voltage reads 13.3 volts on the battery terminals. "Big improvement", but the car will not start now. Still seems to have a large current draw somewhere. With the 27 fuse removed the front door locks, power windows, and temperature gauge does not work.

Post by **coflynn** » 23 Nov 2014, 19:44

A few notes:

1) How old is your battery? Those in-store tests aren't reliable - I had a battery that I was told was "better than new" and was only ~3 years old, but my car kept dieing, sometimes in the span of less than an hour while parked at a store. Replaced battery and issue was 100% fixed, and I confirmed there was no unexpected power draw that a new battery just masked.

2) You should measure the current at the battery - some of the lines don't go through the main fuse box (notably the alternator) so there could be a draw there. See https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=51058 .