Login Register

DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals using SKF 11809 9443310

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals
Post Reply
OldSkoolMadSkilz
Posts: 22
Joined: 23 December 2011
Year and Model: v70XC 1998
Location: MD US
Been thanked: 1 time

Re: DIY: 1998 V70 REAR Cam Seals using SKF 11809!

Post by OldSkoolMadSkilz »

A low quality seal is better than a leaking seal. Worst case is that you'll need to do it again in a few years.

cn90
Posts: 8249
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 466 times

Post by cn90 »

1+,

@phils94850, if no leak, leave it alone. Autozone stuff are hit-and-miss: I think their seals are OK.

The REAR cam seals are easy job, so no worry, worst-case scenario, do them again in a few years. No biggy.

The FRONT cam seals is another story!!!


Anyway, at the time of this writing (Nov 2014), rmeuropean carries Corteco seals for very good price. Corteco is one of the OEM supplier for BMW, Mercedes, Volvo etc.

Cortecoseals.JPG
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

mecheng
Posts: 1271
Joined: 27 March 2014
Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 T5
Location: Ontario, Canada
Has thanked: 15 times
Been thanked: 21 times

Post by mecheng »

I believe Corteco may actually be Volvo OEM, not SKF. My friend used a Corteco seal a couple of years ago on his S70, no issues.

See Pelican parts, they list it as OEM. They've had it for a while now:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/kse ... 43310-M104
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice

combatkarl
Posts: 120
Joined: 31 December 2012
Year and Model: 1997 850 GLT
Location: Minnesota
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by combatkarl »

Excellent post...completed this unexpectedly last weekend when doing the Distributor/plugs/rotor and plug wires. (The seal behind the distributor popped out - similar to: by OldSkoolMadSkilz » 21 Nov 2014, 09:08 Finally changed mine. The front seal was fine, but the rear seal had actually popped all the way out and was resting against the sensor rotor!)

Ended up using Elring brand as that was what was available. I ran across this question/statement on another forum and wanted your folks opinion. Any one use RTV silicone... a thin film around the outside of the seal before pressing it into place? :?:
Karl
1997 Volvo 850 GLT
2001 Honda Odyssey
1999 Mazda Miata
2012 Dodge Journey
1984 Honda Nighthawk S bike

xHeart
Posts: 3306
Joined: 3 December 2011
Year and Model: 2.0/3.2
Location: Great Lakes - USA
Has thanked: 113 times
Been thanked: 115 times

Post by xHeart »

The seals are engineer to fit real tight, using motor oil for lubrication would suffice. I use Volvo brand for few $ more because I like to think that I will keep my car for a while.

Corteco-CFW is OEM. A healthy PCV will help seal work longer.
Silicon works best when two surfaces are matting, and similar in material.
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

User avatar
rspi
Posts: 7303
Joined: 5 November 2011
Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
Location: Cincinnati OH
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 72 times
Contact:

Post by rspi »

I had 2 cam seals pop out on my daughters S70 GLT, lost 2-1/2 quarts of oil in 2 miles. They were NOT OEM seals so I installed OEM seals, front and back, that should have been my second clue that the head had been replaced.

At any rate, after visiting SKF's website I located a few local suppliers of their products and they sell the seals here locally for something like $2.30. Had to order them and should arrive in 3 business days.

As Erik stated, probably NOT a good idea to replace them with a bad/clogged PCV.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

OldSkoolMadSkilz
Posts: 22
Joined: 23 December 2011
Year and Model: v70XC 1998
Location: MD US
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by OldSkoolMadSkilz »

combatkarl wrote:.... I ran across this question/statement on another forum and wanted your folks opinion. Any one use RTV silicone... a thin film around the outside of the seal before pressing it into place? :?:
As ericv11 mentioned earlier, it's much better to have top end seals pop out rather than a bottom end seal. If you glue in the cam seal, then it could cause one of the crank seals to pop. That would be real bad.

cn90
Posts: 8249
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 466 times

Post by cn90 »

This is an example: if engine bore O.D. = 47.00 mm, then the SKF seal O.D. = 47.32 mm.
If you look at the seal design (cross-section), the seal is basically a metal cup (get a magnet and you will see it sucks to the magnet), coated with rubber material.

So, when you press the new seal in, the rubber coating will form the seal. That extra 0.32mm is need for a tight press-fit. In other words, whenever installing new seal, it should feel stiff and requires some gentle hammer tap with socket to drive it in. If the seal goes in too easily, then it is not good.

Oil leak, if happens, usually occurs at the rotating surface: where the seal lip meets the rotating camshaft. This can happen due to a few causes:
- The "garter spring" loses its grip with time/mileage.
- The rubber material is no longer pliable with time/mileage.
- The mating surface of the camshaft is nicked/scored during seal removal/installation.
- Excessive pressure (PCV clogged) pushing oil out where seal lip meets the rotating camshaft.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

mecheng
Posts: 1271
Joined: 27 March 2014
Year and Model: 1998 Volvo S70 T5
Location: Ontario, Canada
Has thanked: 15 times
Been thanked: 21 times

Post by mecheng »

After reading this you will be scratching your head. I was getting ready to return some parts I didn't use when I came across the cam seals I purchased when I did my cap/rotor. There was no oil leaking so there was no need to change the cam seal. The local German parts supplier I use can only get Elring so I purchased it before I read this thread knocking them. I had a better look at the seal and low and behold it says: Corteco on it!

Has Elring been using Corteco seals all along, did they just switch due to problems or is that some kind of reference marking???
Attachments
Box
Box
image.jpg (178.37 KiB) Viewed 2925 times
Corteco stamped on seal
Corteco stamped on seal
image.jpg (163.11 KiB) Viewed 2925 times
Inside pic.
Inside pic.
image.jpg (236.94 KiB) Viewed 2925 times
1998 Volvo S70 T5 - SE - 240km - Sold July 2018
1997 Volvo 850 GLT - 190km
Boost is my drug of choice

User avatar
rspi
Posts: 7303
Joined: 5 November 2011
Year and Model: 850 T-5R Wagon
Location: Cincinnati OH
Has thanked: 34 times
Been thanked: 72 times
Contact:

Post by rspi »

Contacted the local SKF distributor and gave them all of the info off of the box on page 1, to have them order me some seals. Went to pick up my order today and this is what I got... The end is near. :twisted:
Volvo rear cam seal, SKF.
Volvo rear cam seal, SKF.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post