2001 V70XC No crank no power after stalling

JunkYardAddict · Post by **JunkYardAddict** » 25 Nov 2014, 20:03

I am new to the forum. Have done some search, but don't seem to find an answer to my problem.

Just recently purchased a 2001 V70XC with 184K miles. A couple of weeks after having it, it stalled while on the highway. Managed to pull to the shoulder and it died. Wouldn't re-start. Had to be towed home. I had suspected alternator or battery. Had both tested and replaced both. Life was good despite the ABS failure message on the dashboard. No codes with the OBDII.

A couple of weeks later, it stalled again while on the highway. Similar symptomps as the first time. Lights on the dash and radio flicker, power loss, coast to the side of the road and dies. Tried to re-start but nothing. Had it towed home. After getting it off the tow, tried to start and it started right away. Drove it into the driveway and let it sit for a couple of days. Went back to troubleshoot, no codes in the OBDII.

Here is what I have now (or don't) - no crank, nothing electric works (windows, horn, radio, dashboard, headlights, dome lights, etc.), can't lock the doors using the key (only the driver's side actuator seems to work).

What I have checked - there is power to the Engine Management Relay, but no power to the starter relay. Checked all the fuses, and they are all good. The battery is new and fully charged. Don't hear the fuel pump humming when the key is in position II. Voltage at the starter solenoid is the same as the battery.

When trying to crank, I can hear a click in the ignition switch (also tried a new one - no luck), and I can hear the beeping at the ETM.

Given that so many things are not receiving power, I suspect the alarm system or some control module such as the CEM, but I don't have a keyless entry fob to try the lock/unlock trick posted in other messages.

Any help here is greatly appreciated. I am new to Volvos, so please be patient.

draser · Post by **draser** » 26 Nov 2014, 07:16

Immobilizer maybe? I'd try a hard reset, disconnect batt for a few minutes, reconnect and try again. Maybe tapping the ignition key cover where the antenna is. What do you think Jimmy?

JunkYardAddict · Post by **JunkYardAddict** » 26 Nov 2014, 14:34

So here is an update - I have done a re-start by disconnecting the battery's negative terminal and making contact with the positive terminal (as suggested in some other posts). Re-connected the battery with the key in position II. Dome lights did come on for a few second and then faded out (as expected I guess). Same problem, no crank and no power.

I have also disconnedted and checked the antenna ring by the key. It seems in order and didn't see any corrosion or discoloration of connector pins. Have also used an antenna ring from another Volvo. I have also removed the antenna ring and tried to crank without it. Same problem, no crank and no power with all 3 scenarios.

When I turn the key to position III, I do hear a clicking (probably a relay), which comes from under the dashboard, and the location seems to be the where the CEM is located.

If I had the fuel pump humming, I could at least jump the starter relay and have the engine run to see if any codes would come up. Can't run without gas, don't know if the coils would be active either.

Is there a way for testing the CEM to find out if it is the culprit? Can I use the CEM from another Volvo, or is this one of those components from Volvo that can't be swaped without re-coding it to this particular vehicle?

If it is possible to swap the CEM, which model/years would be compatible with the 2001 V70XC?

Thanks for all your help. I know this is certainly one of those where team effort will prevail.

draser · Post by **draser** » 29 Nov 2014, 09:47

Can you test ign. sw as per picture attached?

JunkYardAddict · Post by **JunkYardAddict** » 02 Dec 2014, 14:44

I had an opportunity to test the iginition switch and the signal for the various key positions (position 0, I, II and III). It all checks out according to the diagram above. Still nothing. This proves that the ignition switch is working (or at least it is giving out current as designed for key position).

I have also checked for current in the OBD connector (Data Link Connector). According to one of the diagrams that I have found, the CAN High Speed should provide under 4.5 Volts between pins 6 and 14 of the OBD connector, and the CAN Low Speed should provide greater than 0.5 Volts between pins 3 and 11 in the OBD. This voltage supposedly comes directly from the CEM. There is no voltage in any of these points.

Also, with the battery disconnected, the CEM High Speed should read approximately 60 Ohms, and an open circuit should be about 120 Ohms. I've got nothing. Busted CEM?

So, it looks like the CEM might be the culprit. I still want to rule out the antenna ring immobilizer before proceeding to do anything with the CEM. Not a cheap component, and I don't want to go by trial and error with expensive modules.

Any thoughts?

draser · Post by **draser** » 02 Dec 2014, 17:38

I can't explain the lack of ohms, as for voltage I'd check fuses 4 and 5 by the battery. They're power supply to cem. Also fuse 21 in engine bay main electrical box, it's power to fuel pp components.

JunkYardAddict · Post by **JunkYardAddict** » 02 Dec 2014, 18:52

All the fuses by the battery are good. Have checked all the fuses in the engine compartment and they are good. Fuses in the compartment by the driver's door are also good, and some of those are for the CEM and ETM.

draser · Post by **draser** » 03 Dec 2014, 16:50

You said you have power to engine management relay, I'm assuming that's FMA2, correct? Did you check auto tranny interlock which grounds pin C28 of cem? Starter relay is FMA4, can you pull relay and volt meter pin 2 for 12v when trying to start and pin 4 for zero volts? Can you also post schematic you used to check can?

JunkYardAddict · Post by **JunkYardAddict** » 03 Dec 2014, 18:43

That is correct, I do have power to the Engine Management Relay (FMA2), and don't have power to the starter relay (FMA4) (key in position II - didn't try with position III). Will test for power at the starter relay with key in position III. Attached is the schematic that I have used to test the CAM high speed and low speed at the OBD data link connector using output from the CEM. Won't be able to test the starter relay for a couple of days. Will post back as soon as I have results. Thanks for your help, I do appreciate having someone to bounce ideas with.

JunkYardAddict · Post by **JunkYardAddict** » 03 Dec 2014, 21:02

I have also found this diagram for the Electronic Immobilizer. From the looks of it, there is a wire (Blue-Red) from the igition switch (in position II) that supplies power to the antenna ring. I have confirmed that it is energized when the key is turned to position II. I am wondering if there should be some kind of electrical output from the antenna ring to the CEM as indicated in the diagram. If I have power in one or both of those wires (Gray, pin 2; Blue, pin 3) coming out of the antenna ring, does this mean that the antenna is working properly?

Does anyone have a diagram showing the CEM connectors and pin numbers for each connectors?

Thanks.