1996 Volvo 850 GLT. Preventing Air Pump failure/malfunction

Redneck · Post by **Redneck** » 11 Dec 2014, 14:30

Hi Guys,

Has anyone ever had a problem with a Solenoid Valve P/N 9135742 in their Volvo 850? I want to renew that valve. Either by cleaning it or buying a new one. Has anyone cleaned this valve without damaging it and how did you do it? Does it ever get clogged? I don't see anything in this forum when searching for this part number. I can use an ultrasonic cleaner or just spray someting into both ends, but I dont wan't to damage it.

Post by **cn90** » 11 Dec 2014, 14:37

Search forum for SAS delete with 90 cent diode.

Redneck · Post by **Redneck** » 11 Dec 2014, 14:44

I have just looked at that post about "SAS delete". It is not about cleaning the valve.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 Dec 2014, 16:43

If it isn't working anyway there is no real risk in trying.

...Lee

Post by **cn90** » 11 Dec 2014, 18:37

Redneck wrote:I have just looked at that post about "SAS delete". It is not about cleaning the valve.

Because the SAS system, at least to me, is worthless, that was why I and many others delete this piece of junk.
Of course the tree huggers will disagree with me.

Redneck · Post by **Redneck** » 11 Dec 2014, 18:49

I like trees, but I don't hug them:) Since all my valves still work including the air pump, I just want to clean them up to prevent failure, if possible.

But hey cn90, I read your post about spraying carb cleaner into that plastic Purge valve (Bosch 0280142300) and I was going to clean it with carb cleaner as well . You wrote that it had cleaned your valve. Did your air pump still fail later? Do you think the valve was worn too much and let the air go through despite you cleaning it? Should I buy a new one? What do you think had caused your air pump to fail? (I assume that it failed eventually that is why you decided to eliminate the whole system)

People also write about the air pump relay sizing and preventing the pump to shut down. Did anyone try to open the relay and see why it was stuck? Maybe some dust entered and it needed to be cleaned, oiled a bit and sealed back.

I am trying to identify and eliminate all causes of the air pump failure therefore I plan to clean all valves that lead to it. Many of the failures in the engine bay seem to be caused by dirt or sludge build up that needs to be removed on time.

Post by **cn90** » 11 Dec 2014, 20:50

Now you insist to play with the valve...In my 1998 BMW 528i, same issue, the small electrical valve went kaput (shorted out), so I replaced the valve, about $45 for the BMW.

For your Volvo, I guess you can clean it and see what happens. If the problem persists, then replace the valve. But there is more to it: the vacuum valve ($90 item) mounted on the exhaust manifold and the Air Pump, which is pricey ($250 or so).

And after you spend hours chasing all this crap, you will know why I said the 90-cent diode thingy.
I did the diode mod a few years ago, it is a cheap and fantastic solution.

Redneck · Post by **Redneck** » 11 Dec 2014, 22:30

Ok, so after you cleaned the valve, it later failed due to shorting. It looks like I should order a new valve and keep the old one as a spare.