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Electrical problem with '94 960

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
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1990 - 1998 960
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bobbyg
Posts: 3
Joined: 17 February 2007
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Electrical problem with '94 960

Post by bobbyg »

I recently lost my long-time mechanic. The engine was running very rough so I took it to someone new. He showed me that the #2 cylinder wasn't getting a spark. He wanted to install 6 new ignition coils and new spark plugs for almost $1000.00 No thanks!

Instead, I bought one new coil (the others are firing fine) and changed all the plugs, but problem still exists. The wiring harness seems to be OK, but I used a spark tester and I'm not getting any juice to the #2 ignition coil. I've been reading Chilton's and wonder if the next likely option is to check the ignition control module that controls cylinders 2,4 and 6.

Any thoughts?

bobbyg

DanR
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Joined: 17 February 2007
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Post by DanR »

I think you are on the right track, your mechanic should have done so.
Before buying any new parts. There are two power stages, try swapping them one handles 1,3,5 and the other handles 2,4,6. So if it is a power stage the cylinder should jump. If it doesn't maybe a compression test should be done. It still could come down to a bad wire somewhere. On my 94, annual maintenance of cleaning and tightening the electricals under the hood, especially the big plug on the drivers side wheel well. As well all the ground points.
Good luck and tell us how it worked out.

DanR 94 964 326,000 miles (92,000 on the new engine)

bobbyg
Posts: 3
Joined: 17 February 2007
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Post by bobbyg »

Thanks for the advise. I'll try switching the modules, Too bad the rear module isn't as accessible as the front one. I guess I'll have to get at the rear one from under the engine. Thanks again.

bobbyg
Posts: 3
Joined: 17 February 2007
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Post by bobbyg »

Just wanted to let you know that the problem was in fact one of the ignition control modules. The car runs great again. 250K miles on original engine.

I fixed it myself and it only ended up costing $75 for the module. That's a lot better than the $900 the mechanic wanted me to pay to replace parts that were'nt even the real problem.

I'm no mechanic, but it goes to show that if you use a little logic and reach out for some good advice in forums like this, you can do the job yourself and save a lot of money (and not get ripped off).

Bob

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