1989 240 GL transmission loosing fluid

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 18 Feb 2007, 19:15

OK...

Here is another one for you guys...
Could an automatic transmission loose fluid when driving only?

My wagon is losing between 2-3 qts in 30 or so day period.
This is the third time in recent months that I am in need of topping off my transmission.

Funny thing is that there are no stains in my driveway. Where could it be going?

Could it be burning?
I want to try to solve the issue before it becomes a costly transmission repair or where I will be stuck on the side of the road somewhere.

If it sounds like a seal, lets say the rear seal... Any idea roughly what that would cost +/-?

Thank you for your thoughts on this.

Eric

Post by **billofdurham** » 19 Feb 2007, 15:51

Thank you for your thoughts on this.

My thought process went totally blank when I saw this. If there is a leak, whether or not it stops when the vehicle is stationary, there should be lots of fluid on the transmission casing or the underside of the car.

You are using 2 -3 quarts every 30 days? As the system only holds 7.8 quarts in total I would have thought that you would have been experiencing major change problems if the fluid got down to about half the required amount. How are you checking the fluid?

The only thing I can think of doing would be to drain the system and start with fresh Dexron 11 ATF. It should be changed every 20,000 miles or 2 years anyway.

Bill.

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 19 Feb 2007, 16:51

Bill,

Thanks again... I did read the flush thread that MIJ had written about.
I was planning to do the flush out in my 240 this weekend. I guess the method of the 850 flush may apply to the 240?

Anyway... the bottom of my tranny is wet... no doubt... the drive shaft also loods damp as does the front of my resonator or muffler and the front of my rear end...

Looks like driving at wighway speeds and the force of the wind is pushing the dripping fluid backwards.

I also noticed the last two times I washed my car, the back glass seemed to have a fil of some kind of oil residue. I can see this being my lost fluid in the wind perhaps?

In your opinion sir, would you say any of thos over the counter "Transmission Stop Leak Additives" any good or just a myth?

At any rate.. I will topp it off tonight when I get home and fluch the system out over the weekend and see what happens next.

Thank again!
Eric

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 19 Feb 2007, 16:56

quote]
You are using 2 -3 quarts every 30 days? As the system only holds 7.8 quarts in total I would have thought that you would have been experiencing major change problems if the fluid got down to about half the required amount. How are you checking the fluid?
Bill.[/quote]

At normal operating temperature and the car level and in park, I pull the dip stick out and check it several times, and the same is done as I am adding qt after qt.

Change.... Hmmm I am looking to see the major change for improment once the flush is complete. Right now, I have been driving tis car 50 miles rount trip and I average 80 mph to and from work... I do notice a smoother shift shift once I have topped off those missing 2-3 qts.

Thanks

Post by **billofdurham** » 20 Feb 2007, 12:04

over the counter "Transmission Stop Leak Additives" any good or just a myth?

I have heard good and bad reports, as with everything to do with cars. I would say for a minor leak (small drip here and there) they would be useful. You appear to have a major leak, so I really don't know.

Auto boxes are so complex that most mechanics will not touch them so it will probably have to go to a specialist. In my experience they usually charge less than others - if you go directly to them. Go through a repair shop and they will add their % finder's fee.

By your description it could be the seal at the rear where the drive shaft goes in. If it is that there should not be too much work involved.

Sorry about asking how you check the fluid, but a lot of people think they do it the same way as the engine oil.

As for drain & flush it is easier than the 850:

Bill.

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 20 Feb 2007, 12:40

Bill,

Not a problem on the question... Although I have been around basic auto repairs for many years and leave the heavy stuff to the pros, I have done a stupid thing or two in my life time.

Just like the time I started an engine fire on my Grand Cherokee back in 1999. I had a can of brake cleaner and I was amazed at how it cleaned So Well.... Hmmmm Not a good idea under the hood while the engine is running. Put it out as soon as I could get to an extingusher, but after that, I had alot of burned wires to replace. $$$$$$

Thanks for the tip... I guess I will have to take it to a transmission shop ASAP.

Eric

Post by **Volvo_240_Atari_2600** » 07 Mar 2007, 08:05

billofdurham wrote:
over the counter "Transmission Stop Leak Additives" any good or just a myth?
Auto boxes are so complex that most mechanics will not touch them so it will probably have to go to a specialist. In my experience they usually charge less than others - if you go directly to them. Go through a repair shop and they will add their % finder's fee.

By your description it could be the seal at the rear where the drive shaft goes in. If it is that there should not be too much work involved.
Bill.

OK...
I had my timing belt done yesterday that included the complete kit (seals and tensioner... rather do it now while it's in the same labor to do the belt than to find out 20k from now it needs replacing.

So I had the timing belt, tensioner, seals and water pump done yesterday and it cost me a total of $333.00

The guys at the shop would not touch the transmission, but they found the leak... The rear main seal. I had sprayed degreaser under the car beforehand and washed it down. Only the rear of the transmission was wet of fluid and it also seeps down and saturates the tail end of the pan, the tail and of course the cross-member.

My question is to Bill or anyone with a 240 with the similar problem.
The part is very cheap... Onlt $6.00 at FCP Grotton.
Is this a nightmare for me to do myself? Or do I just want to take into a shop for this service? Servise by a pro for this between $100.00 and $150.00

What is your take on changing the seal w/o the car being on a lift and yes raised and secured on jackstands?

Thank you.
Eric

Post by **billofdurham** » 07 Mar 2007, 15:54

The part is very cheap... Onlt $6.00 at FCP Grotton.
Is this a nightmare for me to do myself?

It is even cheaper here: http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html. Use the Google search on that site for 240 rear seal and it is the second entry.

The job is possible without a hoist but will mean lying on your back for some time. Drain the fluid, if there is any left. Obviously the drive shaft will have to be removed. Not a hard job as it is in two pieces. To ensure you replace the shaft in the same place it was, make some marks on the shaft and the flanges to which it is attached. The rear part is removed first. The bolts holding the shaft to the transmission are removed, but two are replaced to take the weight of the shaft whilst the centre bearing housing is unbolted. The front part of the shaft is then removed with the centre bearing housing attached.

Hook out the old seal and put in the new one and put everything back together again.

Two warnings:
1. Some vehicles are fitted with a front rubber drive shaft flange. This should only be disconnected from the transmission and not from the drive shaft. Disconnecting the drive shaft from the flange may cause an imbalance. On non-rubber drive shafts the 4 retaining nuts and bolts must be renewed.

2. Check this http://www.ipdusa.com/productscat.aspx? ... RootID=629

If you do need the bushing replaced it will need to be taken out and replaced with a press.

Bill.