Official Engine Stalling Thread

volvo virgin jinx · Post by **volvo virgin jinx** » 15 Jan 2007, 06:39

Thanks a bunch

! I checked out the site you linked for a MAF, but they only have one for a S-70 98-00. I'll look around for another. I did the dumb thing and bought a used one about a month ago, no change in the problem. I'm still gonna replace the relay, just in case, and even if it's not broke it won't hurt to have a spare. Sorry about the computer

Bad computer! If you ever get a chance, or think of something else, hit me! Thanks again, and I'll look around for a new one. I don't think I can replace the cord without cutting it or tapping into it if the connector is the problem, but any suggestions before I go dropping $299 for a MAF would be nice. I have the manual you guys posted, so I'll go thru the checklist on that also. Holla

!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 15 Jan 2007, 08:40

Hey there....have recovered. Got everything working again, but have lost considerable info from my crash....all of my Volvo diagrams, how-to's that I saved, etc. I'll just have to start over and hopefully over time I'll get most of it back (not all because some of it isn't available on the web anymore).

In regards to your problem, just keep trouble shooting that area. If you get a new MAF, that in itself might solve your issues. I think that the S70 MAF is the same as that of some 850's...especially turbo-to-turbo, non-turbo-to-non-turbo MAF's. Oh, but you have a '93 (all in the U.S. were non-turbo), so it might be more difficult. I'll check my parts list and see if I can get you a part number for it.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 15 Jan 2007, 08:59

Just found this.
Part of the problem is, yours looks like this (part #1366220):

Later ones (later 850's and S/V70's) look like this (part #1275749):

By the way, these were found here: http://www.foreigncarpartsonline.com/ (part of fcpgroton.com). To me, the '93's looks like they just sell the insert that goes in the round piece, but the parts could be different.

volvo virgin jinx · Post by **volvo virgin jinx** » 15 Jan 2007, 17:19

Wouldn't you know it, you're correct. The used one I bought had the round housing on it. It's not working out either. Checked the website you linked, will hit them up for one next week. I guess if I gotta get it, I gotta get it. Good lookin' out!

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 20 Jan 2007, 15:45

Well, let me add to this thread-
I just had my first engine stall today (actually, it stalled last year but it was the MAF- had a code for it). My wife has been sick so I ran to the drug store to get her some medicine and while pulling into their parking lot, all my dash lights lit up (up arrow first) and I stalled out. Since I was right at an autozone too, I read my codes (with my own code reader) but there were no codes, but Autozone hooked up their battery tester and read a good battery but with a s/w low charge (at least that's what they told me). I checked oil/ATF/coolant- all are at level. When I cranked it again, the idle was erratic. My boost gauge, when boosting would barely travel, and my vacuum was less (actually on the guage- more ) than normal. My idle which is normally at 950 was down around 600 and the car shook some, then the idle would increase and then settle back down around 950 but then decrease again. I had been meaning to clean my K&N filter for the last few days, so anyway, on a hunch, I took it out and things seemed to smooth out some (this is all in the parking lot). I turned it around in the filter box and drove the car home without any issue...no strange idle- boosting appropriately all the way home. Not sure what this was.

When I bought the car at around 90K miles the ignition wires looked new, so I never changed them out. Plugs were changed about 15K miles ago. Maybe at 136K miles now, I need new plug wires and rotor? Maybe I just need to clean my air filter? I have a paper one to put in while the K&N gets cleaned, dried and oiled. I don't think it's the MAF (changed last year) because I get no codes at all. Also, the fuel filter was changed right after I bought the car so I wouldn't' think that's it (nor do I think it's the fuel pump or relay). Remember- no codes at all.

Other issues it could be (still need to investigate):
1. Just a low charge on the battery- I run an iPod and the car has sat since yesterday and the iPod drains it for about an hour before shutting off. If the charge on the battery is already low- the iPod could have drained it more. I disconnected it for the time being.
2. Ignition key tumbler?

Any other suggestions? I'm usually the one giving advise here, but this time, I need your experiential advise.

Edit:
I should add that it was under 40F degrees outside but not cold enough to freeze anything, though the car may not have warmed up properly before I got to the store.

Post by **billofdurham** » 20 Jan 2007, 16:22

On the journey to the drug store, and on the return journey did you experience any erratic running of the engine at all, apart from the stall?

I would strongly suspect the air filter as this is one of the symptoms of a dirty filter. It is borne out by your turning it round and getting home again, something we always did back in the 60s & 70s to save having to buy a new one.

Can we assume the idle is now back to normal?

Bill.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 20 Jan 2007, 16:42

Everything is back to normal now, but it's sitting in the garage. I have to run another errand and I'm afraid to drive her down the hill....will probably drive my wife's V70...it's dark here now. Oh, and nothing unusual going to or coming back from the store. I'll replace the filter with the paper one tomorrow and clean the K&N...maybe even clean the MAF for good measure. Hope you're right.

greasefingerss · Post by **greasefingerss** » 27 Jan 2007, 06:53

Since I see that the coolant sensor can be a common link to stalling, I thought I might chime in. I have only owned a Volvo for one week now; so bare with me.

If there are values for resistance vs temperature, listed in the Haynes manual (they usually are but I do not have one yet for the Volvo), then you can easily check the CTS Coolant Temperature Sensor. If you curious enough, you can check the resistance of the CTS at different temperatures using a pot of water on a stove with a thermometer. The best part about this test is it

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 27 Jan 2007, 08:16

I forgot to mention that the temp. sensor and thermostat were replaced last year. I have been running the car all week without any more issues...just a fluke maybe? Anyway, I cleaned the K&N and refit it yesterday...also last night I flushed the tranny fluid- been needing to do that for a couple of weeks...I was over-due at 36K miles since the last one. Seems to drive smoothly now. Going to Chattanooga today (taking my son and his friends to a skate park). Have my code reader and a few trusty tools with me in case I have issue on the road- but I don't expect them.

andrew.christensen · Post by **andrew.christensen** » 21 Feb 2007, 09:44

Oy. I have read all the posts on this stalling issue. My wife's car suffers from some of the same issues. However, this problem is a little bit different.

The car is a 1993 Volvo 850 GLT (NOT Turbo)

When I bought the car a year and a half ago, the check engine light was on but the dealer assured me nothing was wrong with it. And in fact it ran just perfectly for a long time.

About 6 months ago, the engine started stalling but ONLY upon trying to start the car. You turn the key, the engine fires and then immediately stalls. The only way to avoid the stall is to press the gas and keep it revved. But most of the time, as soon as you let off the gas, it stalls. Some days it will take 2 or 3 attempts to start the engine. Some days 6 or 7. It's driving my wife nuts.

Knowing about nothing of Volvo's other than the expense of their parts, my first attempt was to replace the air filter (Volvo OEM), spark plugs, cap and rotor. The volvo dealer/garage said that wires are rarely if ever a problem. So I didn't replace those. This did not solve it.

A few weeks ago, the car quit running altogether and the dealership replaced the fuel pump, which got it running again, but it still has the stalling issue.

So, I read up on this site and a couple others and found out how to read the codes. I got two codes: MAF sensor failure, and Long term fuel mixture too rich. So I replaced the MAF ($235 just for the part). I then reset the codes. I got in the car and the check engine light was still on! I drove it around the block and it ran just fine. I got it home and turned the engine off. I then attempted to start it and it stalled immediately again. It did it 3 times in a row again so that part was not the problem.

This doesn't seem to matter whether it's cold or hot as it does it either way.

It has only a couple of times stalled while driving, but both times it was at a stop, and NEVER while moving.

Any ideas of what to check next? I am not sure how much more money I want to pour into this car, but I don't want to just give up either. My head is spinning with all the advice on this particular issue but not sure what really applies because my issue is different.

Just FYI, we were told by the dealership that replaced the fuel pump that the thermostat needs to be replaced. Could this be related?

Also, we have a problem with the headlights going dead on us a lot. Related?

Thanks for your help.