1997 850 CV removal -- stuck now

Tobers · Post by **Tobers** » 05 Jan 2015, 15:01

I'm trying to replace my outer CV boot. I got the front end of the shaft removed. The strut is out, too, because it needs to be replaced. So i have lots of room. But i can't get the shaft out of the transmission!

When I try to turn the shaft, it is still clearly engaged. When I pull on the shaft it feels like only the interior rubber boot is holding it in; it will come towards me a couple of inches.

After the interior rubber boot there is about a 3 inch diameter housing that slightly tapers to mate to the transmission. Am i supposed to be wedging something between that piece and the transmission housing? i've got about 1/8 inch gap there now. Pulling on the shaft is like pulling on a rubber band; i'm not sure that is going to help. Should I be trying to shake/rotate the 3 inch diameter housing?

I wanted to get this out before dark. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you! rick

Post by **mecheng** » 05 Jan 2015, 15:46

Yes use something to pry out, just don't damage the trans housing use lots of surface area.

JeffHicks · Post by **JeffHicks** » 05 Jan 2015, 15:57

The shaft is held into the transaxle by a c-ring. If everything is off the outer end of the shaft, nothing more is holding it in. However, it can be pretty tough to pull it out.

Last time I replaced axles on an 850 the driver's side axle gave me fits. I ended up using a couple flat bars, a lot of grumbling, and some wiggling of the shaft. Eventually it just popped out.

As "mecheng" said, just be sure you don't damage the transaxle case.

Post by **erikv11** » 05 Jan 2015, 17:14

Agreed, pulling on the shaft is not smart. You can separate the CV.

Many people use a pry bar but yanking on one can crack the bell housing, plus pry bars come in all shapes and sizes and what works for one person may not work so well for the next.

Use a tapered wedge and just tap it into the narrow gap you described between the "3 inch housing" and the transmission. Go in from underneath. My favorite is a 5/8 chisel but a wooden triangle works too. Just tap it in with a 3 pound hammer, the axle will go "click" and pop right out of the trans. Super easy. Pics are gone from the thread but here is where I first posted about this a long time ago: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/83 ... side-axle/

: Craftsman 6 inch cold chisel, 5/8"; 58_cold_chisel.jpg (20.68 KiB) Viewed 1212 times

Tobers · Post by **Tobers** » 05 Jan 2015, 20:28

sweet. tomorrow afternoon i'm going to i) support the axle so it is "even" (no side stress on clip) and ii) use a chisel or wooden wedge. I'm optimistic. Stay tuned ... and thank you. I need to get this back on the road. rick

Post by **kallekula** » 06 Jan 2015, 01:43

Think I replied to the same question couple days ago.
I have had serious problems getting the drive shafts off the transmission. Ended up having to drill a hole in the cv joint housing and using a dent puller to get it out. It gets stuck because of rust. Once you get it out apply grease upon installing.

Tobers · Post by **Tobers** » 06 Jan 2015, 18:13

I was hoping erikv11's chisel was going to be the ticket. Got one at Sears. It might be the ticket ... but i haven't gotten it to work yet. the driveway is littered with wooden wedges, metal wedges, pry bars, and chisels.

erikv11: do you strike it at 6:00 (dead bottom)? I was worried the chisel might hit something. Or, do you drive the chisel along the edges, where if the chisel goes far it won't hit anything? Seems like dead on would be best, though maybe risky.

Tomorrow morning I'll raise the car for more room, and swing a bigger hammer. I just don't want to do anything stupid. thanks. rick

Post by **dosbricks** » 06 Jan 2015, 18:55

It's not advisable to drive something metal into the center of the shaft because when it pops out the tool could damage the surface of the axle that the output seal contacts. It's right there almost flush with the face of the transaxle.

I used a carpenter's flat bar which has a 90 degree bend on one end. Slipped it in from alongside/below the axle and used the 90 degree end to get behind the inner CV canister and thumped the long end downward with my fist. The axle popped out on the first try. I learned about this method from a video by MVS member rspi.

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=vid ... 20FE472BAF

Post by **xHeart** » 06 Jan 2015, 19:05

Tobers wrote:I was hoping erikv11's chisel was going to be the ticket. Got one at Sears. It might be the ticket ... but i haven't gotten it to work yet. the driveway is littered with wooden wedges, metal wedges, pry bars, and chisels.

erikv11: do you strike it at 6:00 (dead bottom)? I was worried the chisel might hit something. Or, do you drive the chisel along the edges, where if the chisel goes far it won't hit anything? Seems like dead on would be best, though maybe risky.

Tomorrow morning I'll raise the car for more room, and swing a bigger hammer. I just don't want to do anything stupid. thanks. rick

Chisel is not for first timers. Don't do it. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=62641
Borrow ball joint removal tool from autozone.

Post by **erikv11** » 06 Jan 2015, 20:22

What on earth did you do with the chisel to cause https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=62641??? I've removed like 8 or 10 of the P80 axles this way, every one of them has been easy. Maybe the 01 axle is different?

Go straight up from 6 PM. You tap it with a 3 pound hammer, OK gentle blows not taps, but you hardly need any force, there is no way it will damage anything because the chisel never hits the axle shaft itself. Once the chisel starts to separate the CV from the case, if it is not out yet then stop hitting it and move to rotating it with a 13 mm socket.

If the axle will not pop out with a chisel/wedge then the circlip or something else is probably damaged and removal will require something more drastic and potentially damaging to the trans case, like a pry bar.