98 V70XC. Grinding Noise Not Constant

dmcfan · Post by **dmcfan** » 09 Jan 2015, 12:59

Hello,

First post here. I recently bought the V70XC. It has 110k miles on it. I did a lot of searching on multiple forums and most seem to point to a bad wheel bearing, CV joint or bevel gear. The only thing different from those potential problems is my noise does not last long and I cannot make it change by quick turns , etc. Here is my best attempt to explain.

The noise is more of a grinding sound similar if you spun a grinding wheel and put sandpaper on it. It seems more centralized to the engine area. The noise starts around 15 mph and gets faster and louder with speed. It is present when slowing down and does not go away if cruising and I put it in neutral. This noise only lasts for about 10-15 mins of driving then is completely silent for as long as the car does not sit for a long period of time. I can take an hour lunch and when I start driving again the noise is not there. Only when the car sits overnight or for about 4 hours in the cold will it come back for that initial 10-15 mins of driving. So the window of opportunity to try and diagnose is small.

It does not change tone or pitch with turns or breaking. However it would occasionally just stops making the noise driving straight but will come back again until I drive long enough for it to go away completely.

That's the best way I can explain it. My means for diagnosing is limited now based on the weather and no garage. Trying to avoid a garage trip / expense. I can work on it if I know what to really look at . Thanks!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 09 Jan 2015, 17:32

The noise from a bad axle CV joint or a bad hub (wheel bearing) typically changes in intensity when turning the car. The 10 to 15 minute aspect of it makes me think that the change is related to heat which would suggest a problem with the front CV joint on the prop shaft. The front joint on the prop shaft is physically close to the catalytic converter and most of the time the root cause of the joint failing in the first place is due to getting overheated from the high temperature from the catalytic converter.

If you remove the prop shaft and the noise ceases then you pretty much have your answer. The car will drive just fine as a FWD car without the prop shaft so removing it won't leave you stranded while you evaluate repair options.

...Lee

dmcfan · Post by **dmcfan** » 09 Jan 2015, 19:22

Thanks. Darn I was hoping nothing with the awd system would go out on me this fast or even in the middle of winter but I knew it would eventually catch up to me. If that is it luckily that is a relatively simple fix and Colorado Driveshaft seems to be the way to go with replacement.

Is it correct that one of the methods of checking is grabbing the prop shaft and shaking it and if there is movement that is it?

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 09 Jan 2015, 19:55

Yes, if it's worn enough. Also, It's probably something you can actually see.
This problem is that the front CV is inches away from the cat. The heat from
the converter bakes the CV's rubber boot and it just disintegrates.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 09 Jan 2015, 20:00

Is it correct that one of the methods of checking is grabbing the prop shaft and shaking it and if there is movement that is it?

If there is discernible slop then that is a fairly conclusive test. The lack of movement isn't always conclusive that it is good however.

In your case, given that it quiets after time, you might not be able to feel it. I have had noisy hubs that didn't feel at all loose.

...Lee

dmcfan · Post by **dmcfan** » 09 Jan 2015, 20:51

Thanks. I will try to at least do a visual this weekend.

dmcfan · Post by **dmcfan** » 09 Jan 2015, 22:14

If I find this to be the problem is the consensus to put the bolts back in after the shaft is removed? I am finding different answers as to what needs to be done once it is out to.run FWD until the replacement shaft arrives.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 09 Jan 2015, 23:08

I wouldn't put them back in but be sure to put the bolts and washers in a place where you can find them. Removing the shaft involves removing the bolts and washers at both ends and then removing the center carrier bearing bracket.

...Lee

dmcfan · Post by **dmcfan** » 11 Jan 2015, 11:12

Thanks Lee that was the culprit. Boot completely torn and once it was out the joint does nothing but bind. I rather just go the full replacement route not just the front kit. Do you recommend anyone other than Colorado Driveshaft for a full rebuild?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 Jan 2015, 16:09

dmcfan wrote:Do you recommend anyone other than Colorado Driveshaft for a full rebuild?

You might want to check around with your local independent Volvo shop and see if they have anyone local that they recommend. Colorado is the only place that has earned universal praise.

Anyone can replace the CV and the U joints but when you get to the carrier bearing and then getting everything balanced again the folks at Colorado just know what they are doing and have the stuff to do it right.

Other than the price, I have never heard anyone complain about product from Colorado Drive Shaft which is saying something.

...Lee