2004 volvo xc90 2.5T cam seal vs vvt leak

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 10 Jan 2015, 09:16

My xc90 has 305,000 kms on it (190K miles) and I have a small oil leak from somewhere on the belt side. I have checked the timing belt area, and there is no oil on the belt, but given I will be nearing around 100k kms (65K miles) on current timing belt, I will replace it this spring. I will be replacing the front cam seals, as well as the crank seal. And to be clear, the PCV is clear as I cleaned it not too long ago.

I have a few questions in preparations for this project:

1) Is the cam locking tool the same for the Volvo 850s as it is for my xc90?
2)How common is it for the VVT pulley to leak? Maybe it isn't the cam seal?
3)Does the vvt on the xc90 have a replaceable o-ring that may leak?
4)I heard it is uncommon for the crank seal to leak? Is it safe to say, that if there is a leak around the cam area, its probably not the crank seal, and I can leave it?

When I replaced the timing belt last time, I replaced the water pump (gates brand) as well as the tensioner and idler pulley with genuine Volvo parts. They will only have 65k miles on them when I replace the belt, so I would likely not replace these. Does this sound alright?

I have watched videos on how to take off and put back the vvt pulleys, and I am confident that I can do it.

Any more suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ali

Post by **cn90** » 10 Jan 2015, 13:42

#1: yes same tool as 850, about $65 of ebay.

#2: at 190k miles, consider new VVT hub and cam seals, see thread below...
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc90 ... 251/page3/

#3: yes, the O-rings are $16 on ebay, but the VVT hub may have too much play that causes leak at cam seal interface. So, check for play first.

#4: if not leaking, leave it alone.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 10 Jan 2015, 16:33

Thanks for the reply,

Can I check for play with the belt on? Like grab the hub and move it back and forth? The link you posted was very useful.

In case I have to replace the hubs, is there a certain way that the hubs go back on? If I were to put the old one back on, I would have marked it it and put alignment marks on it before taking it off, but the new one would have no marks. Or maybe there is only one way to for it to go on?

Lastly, I already got the cam seals from FCP, and I'm pretty sure I got the correct parts, but just making sure because the intake seal and exhaust seals look different although they are the same size. One is completely orange and one is black and orange. Both are genuine volvo parts.

Thanks

Post by **cn90** » 11 Jan 2015, 13:50

Couple things...

1. Installing the Front Cam seals is tricky, especially for the exhaust cam seal. I don't have the DIY for XC90 but I wrote a DIY for my 1998 S70 GLT below. I used Plumbing PVC coupler, see detail below. I am not sure you can use PVC Coupler for XC90 2.5T engine. Best is to bring the cam seal to hardware store and find a PVC coupler that fits it well.
- Make sure you use only Volvo seal, stay away from Elring.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=53722

2. The REAR cam area: once the locking tool is removed, you will need a brand-new Volvo plastic plug(s) to seal it, this is because it is 99% certain that this plastic plug is damaged during removal.

3. The VVT Hub.
You can search the internet, but the info from VIDA is very dumb: 1 cog to the left (exhaust hub), 2 cogs to the left (intake hub) but they never explain to you why.
Most forums say this say that and it can very very very confusing to the novice.
I will summarize the VVT Hub for you...

4. This is the theory behind the VVT engineering, see photos below.

* VIDA 1 cog, 2 cog business thingy...

* This is my summary, figures a and b shows the normal operation when engine is running: without and with solenoid activated to advance the cam.
* Tighten the T55 bolt only when you are happy with all the marks.
* During TB job, with the TB removed, it is a different ball game: during installation, you need to move the OUTER Hub CW a little bit (figures c and d) until it is stopped by the INNER Hub (which is locked in place by the snugged T55 bolt). Then install the TB.

5. Watch this youtube video, it is very good:

Post by **cn90** » 11 Jan 2015, 14:00

For FRONT Cam seals, both intake and exhaust seals have the same PN 9458309.
Volvo OEM is orange color. I don't know about black-orange mix.

Since the Exhaust seal is harder to install, I think you should install the orange color there b/c the Exhaust seal is something you want to do only once (difficult access). The Exhaust seal is a painful job.

Install the black-orange seal on the Intake cam, in case it leaks later, you can easily replace it.

Post by **cn90** » 11 Jan 2015, 14:02

BTW,

Take some photos and post a follow-up so others can benefit from your DIY.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 11 Jan 2015, 15:03

The seals I got are the ones in this kit. Notice the bigger ones, one is completely orange, and the other has black with orange.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 31wp1-oe-1

It seems I have the correct parts. Just want to double check

Post by **cn90** » 11 Jan 2015, 20:14

Interesting re Front seals being different.
Perhaps they have different PNs?

Post by **cn90** » 12 Jan 2015, 07:31

Re FCP Kit... 9440651 vs 9458309.

See the links below:

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showA ... ct=1197703

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showA ... bly=235818

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=61563

I think your 2004 XC90 uses the same cam seals for the FRONT. You should go to your local Volvo dealer and verify.

According to SKF website, there is a difference in 9440651 vs 9458309, basically in the shaft dimension, not the bore side. I think 9440651 is used in cars with different intake and exhaust sprockets, while 9458309 is used in cars with the same VVT sprockets.

huzzsaba · Post by **huzzsaba** » 16 Jan 2015, 19:16

Thanks for the reply.

I am pretty sure I have the correct parts, but I will double check with the dealership.

Anyhow, I read somewhere where the VVT is activated over 3000 rpms which I barely ever go over the 3000rpm mark. I am losing a litre and half at the most every 3500 miles. Is it safe to say its probably the cam seal since I hardly exceed the 3000 rpm.

I also noticed that the exhaust vvt hub pulley had a alignment mark made by someone on the back of it, and it wasnt me. I got the car with 220,000 kms on it and I was pretty sure the timing belt was never replaced as I had never seen a timing belt that cracked and worn.

My plan is to take things apart in April when it gets warmer out. I will take my time doing the work since I will be putting my S70 T5M on the road to enjoy for a month or so

.