1998 S70 Misfiring and Stuttering/Vibrating

[obayha]

Any way to replace the valve stem seals without pulling the head?

I believe there is. The Schelly tool(sp) is used to do it on the engine. Pull the cams, use air to keep valves closed and the tool to remove the clips..X20 and your done. I was getting ready to buy the tool, about $150.00, before mine burnt a valve. There is a DIY on here somewhere about it. Will try and find it. I am now running on 4 of the 5 and have about 1000 miles on it. Still gets me to and from work every day. I have AAA on speed dial.
Shane

[rspi]

I'm pulling these heads often. Will likely pull 2 more this spring.

[erikv11]

LOL, yes guys, pulling the head is very easy. It's putting them back together so that they are good for the long term, that is the tricky part. Too many people rush it, too easy to miss something small that will cause a leak in 15,000 miles or so. It is totally straightforward in principle, but all too common that there are problems down the road.

Here are some of the links for in-car valve stem seals, there are several write-ups out there:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=27982
https://sites.google.com/site/incarvalv ... placement/
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... eam-seals/

There have been many posts about this over the last four years but no recent, comprehensive writeup, for example I know the tool can be had for much cheaper these days but I did not search for that post, etc.

[stephansvolvo]

I'll let you guys know how it goes. I should be starting the head job in a week or so. While I'm in there im going to do a bunch of other stuff. It seems straight forward coming apart but, I know me.....so I asked my wife to help keep me from getting to impatient putting it back together. I miss driving my Volvo!!!!

I'm learning ,ore about these cars than I ever thought I would or could and I honestly don't think I will buy anything but volvos going forward. When my mini van goes I hope I have my wife talked into an XC90. It'll still hold the family and I'll be able to work on it.

Burnt valves! Ha they suck! Not something I gave thought to until it happened to me! Boo hiss!

[2012]

Mine did the same thing until finally the fuel pump just quit. Do your a buzzing under the rear seat while sitting at idle? If so, change it quick

[2012]

Will these cars even do 110 mph?

If it was a turbo it would be hard not to do 110

[stephansvolvo]

Will these cars even do 110 mph?

If it was a turbo it would be hard not to do 110

It was a turbo!!!!

[styoung94]

Sorry for never updating about the status of mine, been crazy busy with classes, and I didn't have too much new input. Side note, my last 2000 S70 non-turbo would do 110. It didn't take too long either, and it was a smooth ride.

But back to this one. I did the smoke/ glove test and there was some smoke. The glove inflated slightly but not too much. It didn't inflate to the pressure of the one in the video. I replace one vacuum line, it was from the tree by the throttle to the air box. I also checked the elbow on the intake manifold. It seemed to be intact. I've driven that car about 30 miles since doing that and no po172 code.

I also checked the distributor cap/rotor. There was slight buildup, but no cracks. I cleaned it out a little using MAF cleaner and a microfiber cloth. I then checked the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. It was about 27, which I think is within the limits. Then I checked the rear cam seal. It looks like that was bad at some point as the bottom screw had a good bit of dried oil on it. But the inside and seal looked good. Only a tiny bit of oil. I didn't replace that, but if I order some parts I will.

So the smoke from the dipstick kind of freaked me out. So I decided to take the car into a mechanic here who specializes in European cars. He looked at it once and didn't know anything since there were no codes, even though I told him it was only missing/ stuttering when it was warm and idling. That was two days ago.

If he doesn't get back to me today or tomorrow morning I'm going to pick up the car and mess with it myself. I'll buy wires, cap, and rotor and then see how it goes from there. Thanks everyone for the input.

[erikv11]

wires must be Bougicord
cap and rotor must be Bosch
plugs there are more options

[styoung94]

wires must be Bougicord
cap and rotor must be Bosch
plugs there are more options

Shall do, I've seen others recommend the same. I have the links for wires and cap/rotor picked out for those brands. The spark plugs I put in it were Bosch OE FR7DPP+ which seemed to have good reviews.