Login Register

98 V70 - Replace shocks and ramps

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
98v70dad
Posts: 1226
Joined: 11 March 2011
Year and Model: 98 V70
Location: Southeast US
Has thanked: 1 time

98 V70 - Replace shocks and ramps

Post by 98v70dad »

Is it possible to replace the rear shocks using ramps rather than jacking the car and putting it on jack stands? it seems like you could do it but I can't see how you would be able compress the shocks a little to easily get the old ones off and the new ones on. I'm just weighing my options. I can jack the car if I have to but its just another tool I have to borrow on fairly short notice.

User avatar
erikv11
Posts: 11800
Joined: 25 July 2009
Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
Location: Iowa
Has thanked: 292 times
Been thanked: 765 times

Post by erikv11 »

Yep, putting it on ramps should give you more than enough clearance, it will work just fine and you don't need a jack. Working with the springs would be another matter but for just shocks, with ramps you are good to go.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

User avatar
E Showell
Posts: 3275
Joined: 16 October 2008
Year and Model: ‘07 S80 3.2
Location: Long Valley, N.J.
Has thanked: 37 times
Been thanked: 111 times

Post by E Showell »

Be extra careful with the rear shock mounting bolts/nuts. I do not know if the roads get salted in the southeast in the winter, but these attachment points often prove to be pretty well corroded. Liberal, repeated dousing with PB Blaster for a few consecutive days before you tackle the actual repair may make you life remarkably easier as far as removal of the old shocks goes.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT

User avatar
skloon
Posts: 526
Joined: 17 June 2010
Year and Model: 94 850 95 850 04 S60
Location: Edmonton AB
Been thanked: 2 times

Post by skloon »

+2 on the lower bolts, try and tighten a bit then loosen or use heat right away you dont want to brake the stud

98v70dad
Posts: 1226
Joined: 11 March 2011
Year and Model: 98 V70
Location: Southeast US
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by 98v70dad »

skloon wrote:+2 on the lower bolts, try and tighten a bit then loosen or use heat right away you dont want to brake the stud
Started with liquid wrench on all bolts a week ago and followed up with PB Blaster last night. Zero salt on the roads here EVER. Well thats almost true. Once every 5 to 10 years there is a snow storm here and there will be some salt used until the city runs out of it which usually in a few hours.

Last night when I looked at the bolts coming through the wagon deck on the bottom side they looked a little dirty but not corroded. I still plan to be extra careful though.

Cees Klumper
Posts: 358
Joined: 28 December 2013
Year and Model: 2002 S80 T6
Location: De Luz Heights, Southern California
Has thanked: 40 times
Been thanked: 28 times

Post by Cees Klumper »

I just replaced my rear shocks on my 2001 C70. They were still the original pair, after some 160,000 miles or so. Fortunately the nuts came off easily, and there's plenty of salt on these here roads in the winter. The odd thing was that the right rear spring was broken in 3 pieces, and had been for a while judging from the surface rust on the break areas, and I never noticed it. Also after having replaced with new I could not tell the difference. Maybe that says more about my driving skills than the car, but still; check the conditions of your rear springs from time to time because you may be surprised like I was. BTW the other spring did also break about 7 years ago, and that one made a horrible noise.

User avatar
E Showell
Posts: 3275
Joined: 16 October 2008
Year and Model: ‘07 S80 3.2
Location: Long Valley, N.J.
Has thanked: 37 times
Been thanked: 111 times

Post by E Showell »

Wow. I've been told the springs on these cars "never break." I guess "never" is a relative term.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT

98v70dad
Posts: 1226
Joined: 11 March 2011
Year and Model: 98 V70
Location: Southeast US
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by 98v70dad »

Nobody addressed my question about how to compress or extend the shock. On ramps the wheels won't be hanging. With the wheels on a ramp you cant put a jack under them to line up the shock with the stud. I suppose i can figure out something but i like going into any job with a plan. Any advice would be appreciated. The Bilstein shocks are pretty stiff. They are hard to extend/compress by hand for me.

User avatar
erikv11
Posts: 11800
Joined: 25 July 2009
Year and Model: 850, V70, S60R, XC70
Location: Iowa
Has thanked: 292 times
Been thanked: 765 times

Post by erikv11 »

I don't remember how I've done it, I think the shocks weren't hard to compress? Anyway, you have two choices (I am assuming you have attached the shock mount to the shock already, which is the way I would do it):

(1) Put the lower mount on the stud first. Then from inside the wagon compress the top until you can thread in one fastener, then the other. Once you have the bolts started, screw them in to bring the mount down the rest of the way. You could even get a long bolt or two just for getting them started, if need be.

(2) Mount the top (the shock mount) first. Then jack up the shock and slide it over onto the stud; not sure about clearances and angles but suspect it is possible.

I would try #1 first. Inside the wagon you can put a lot of your weight on the shock, that should move it down. The longer bolt idea would be a nice way to simplify it. If #1 doesn't work, try plan B.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

98v70dad
Posts: 1226
Joined: 11 March 2011
Year and Model: 98 V70
Location: Southeast US
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by 98v70dad »

Thanks. I thought of both of those too. Having to force something into position if you can avoid it doesn't seem like a good idea to me.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post