2003 Volvo XC70 Cam and crank shaft timing

Post by **GBS** » 26 Feb 2015, 22:50

Hey all, so this week I'm doing the front seals of our XC70. I got all the parts and read up on the cams, locking, timing and VVT removal/reinstall procedure...

One thing I'm curious about is the timing, its a PITA to see the timing on the crank shaft but I wonder if it'll be easier once the tensioner is off. If I do find that timing is off on the crank shaft, do I just adjust it with the 30mm either way or does it have to go clockwise? Or can I not turn the crank shaft at all when the cams are locked.

Really curious how this goes and I'm taking my time, so far removing things has been a breeze but the VVT portion and getting the marks right is a bit scary. I'm replacing cam seals, tensioner, idler and water pump, now I'm thinking I might to front main seal and rear cam seals too since its all right there, car has 180k on it. Any tips on adjusting timing on the crank shaft appreciated.

Thanks!

draser · Post by **draser** » 27 Feb 2015, 06:12

Pretty well covered subject in this forum and others. Line up the sprokets and crank marks best you can, if you're close the slots at other end of cam shafts should be horizontal. Get a white paint marker, and mark the sprokets to the belt and crank to the belt. That way you have your own marks. Do not move crank after belt removal. Before taking sprokets off mark them to the shaft 2 places. Before installing new belt on place old belt on top and transfer white marks to the new belt. Now you're good to go.

Post by **jimmy57** » 27 Feb 2015, 06:26

The crank marks are a bit tough to see. It will be easier if you pull the box off that is around the ECM and TCM. I do not remove the modules, remove the box lid, remove the washer filler tube and then use a screwdriver to push the tabs away and lift the box straight up. Then you have a sight line. When the tensioner is off you can move the crank as needed to get it spot on looking straight down.

Remember that the crank sprocket has two teeth marked at the rear edge and those should straddle the pointer mark on oil pump body.

Post by **GBS** » 27 Feb 2015, 08:41

Awesome, got a strong flashlight down there and saw one mark, the right tooth, did not see one on the tooth to the left but I'm close, if not timed right. Also nice to know I can turn the crank slightly if necessary, though it doesn't look like that will be necessary. I will lock cams at this point, I'm still not sure what seal is causing the leak and I've read its easier to get the crank nut loose with the belt in place and cams locked.

I agree draser, there are many great instructions and experience on here, without reading them there's no way I'd even start this but I didn't see anything about how to fix the timing if off, I know its important so also figured it be important to do adjustments right. Transferring the marks to the new belt is a great idea, I was going to count teeth.

thanks!