2003 Volvo XC70 Crank pulley removal

[SuperHerman]

I used an electric DeWalt impact wrench. Came right off. For the seal, it is part of the oil pump. Not too tough as you are already there. To get the harmonic balancer off I used a power steering pump remover with some short bolts. DO NOT use a three jaw puller as the harmonic balancer is soft and will break - how do I know - I did it.

[xHeart]

I used an electric DeWalt impact wrench...

There are several DeWalts out there.
Which one, model #?

[SuperHerman]

Dewalt DW293 - it is a 1/2" unit. Seems to handle everything I have thrown at it.

[GBS]

OK, so I don't think my problem was the air tool itself but my tank. I only have a small compressor that empties very quickly so I don't think I'm getting the rated torque on the air tools for long. A friend offered to bring over his BIG tank to try it out with his craftsman pro but now that I have the timing belt off I'm a bit hesitant to start messing with the crank again..... Would say a strap wrench be enough counter hold on the aux pulley? I don't want to mess up crank timing now that cams are locked and things seem to be going well....

Motivation for just opening the crank to look is dropping fast and the urge to put her back together and see if she even starts sounds more and more attractive.

[SuperHerman]

I agree, bolt it back together and see what happens. If it leaks you can always do it all over again with the experience under your belt, pun intended. I also agree that your air compressor is not putting out enough air at the volume required. I had the same problem and bought the electric for that purpose.

I don't understand your other question. Once the timing belt is on and properly adjusted/timed the aux belt will not impact anything - the two belts are independent. Just put the aux belt on and don't worry about the timing, that side is already done. If that is what you mean.

Otherwise if you are talking about the idler and tensioner on the timing belt side you do not need to hold these, they actually need to rotate. Start at the bottom, pulling the timing belt snug on the crank and running correctly on the idler pulley. Then up doing the belts on the cams. Zip tie the timing belt on to the two cams, using one tie on each cam. It will not be super tight, but it will be as tight as you can get it with the belt teeth being the deciding factor.

Don't know if that makes sense. Put it this way - the number of belt teeth between the Crank and cams, on the right side (front of car as you will be facing the passenger side fender) is fixed by Crank, idler pulley and cams. You cannot add more belt teeth without stretching the belt, if you have an extra tooth in there you should be able to walk it over the cams to get the right tension. Again without physically stretching the belt, which is no simple feat.

Then work the water-pump and tensioner and the belt should be on. This is not easy. Sometimes I have fought it, other times it just slides on. Go figure. If you have marked your belt off your old belt getting this to line up will take a few attempts as the crank will not move. Once everything is on, properly tension the belt and double check all your marks. It will not be perfect, but pretty darn close. Then rotate engine by hand two or three times to make sure everything is good. Hope that helps.

[chrism]

"...Then work the water-pump and tensioner and the belt should be on. This is not easy. Sometimes I have fought it, other times it just slides on...."

It seems that I always have more trouble installing the accessory belt than the T-belt.

[GBS]

thanks SuperHerman, great instructions, I've marked my old belt and will transfer that to new before installing. My question was just in case I decide to take my friend up on his compressor loan, would I be able to hold the crank still now that the timing belt is off while hitting it with impact wrench...

I'm leaning towards finishing this up, after taking the plastic cover off I'm sure it was my exhaust cam seal leaking. Now to installing water pump, then seals and so on. When I removed thermostat to do PCV it leaked so I'm hoping to avoid that with the water pump, I've heard some say install it then fill to check for leaks, that sounds like good advice.

[SuperHerman]

You are going to do the cam seals? That is a serious project and many have suffered the dreaded CEL light afterwards because of the VVT. I think the VVT is on the intake side which does not have the VVT - don't remember though. If you have to remove the VVT make sure you read up on it well. You need to set it right and most people mark the original position of the VVT to Cam bolts. Also I would do the seals first so any oil, which is minimal, that drips down can be cleaned fully when the pump is off. You have four seals - front and back on both cams.

Do you have the tools to hold the Cams in place? You are opening up another can of worms here if you are going to do the four Cam seals. The cams need to be locked in place, especially on the VVT Cam b/c the Cam will turn when you remove the VVT. The other side most likely can be done without the special locking tools. Some claim to be able to do it with no locking tools. They are legends.

Regarding using the impact and turning the crank - mine have never turned, but I had the same fear as you so I had the belt on just in case. It is possible it did not turn because of this though. Once it is buttoned up you can pull the Harmonic Balancer Pulley and not remove the belt. Just make sure when pulling the Harmonic Balancer it does not pull the gear that is attached to the crank. Once the Harmonic Balancer is off you will have a clear view of the oil pump seal. I have not seen one that leaks, my high mileage at 185k was not leaking when I did the oil pump.

One other thing - I believe if you pull the starter and put the appropriate stop in the crank will not turn, I am just not sure if it locks it both ways or only one. On an Audi it is both ways, but I do not know on the Volvo. Again, you are opening up many cans of worms to chase down a leak you are unsure exists. If the PCV system (firebox) is off the starter is an easy removal.

I would say finish it up, drive it around and then figure out if you have any real leaks.

[GBS]

Yup, I'm doing the cam seals as well as everything related to timing belt, figured it be a good time to do all of it. I might not be doing rear cam seals, I have the seals and its all apart now as I installed the locking tool but it wasn't leaking so I'm tempted to lay sleeping dogs lie... saying that, doing this might have disturbed them so they'll leak /

I've given up on the nut and moved on, front was cleaned up yesterday, put the inner plastic on, cleaned up around the pump and today my goal is to install water pump, check for leaks, install tensioner and idler and if I get to it the cams.

I'm really curious if the VVT will cause codes when starting up, I have VVT on both intake and exhaust. Vadis is specific on going 1/4 round past marks and back to release VVT spring action. I did this and the plan was to just line up the mark I have made on block with the pulley. I also made marks on the cap (blue for intake and gray for exhaust) and they should all align on the motor as it did on removal. In fact there is almost a line from VVT cap across belt to block, unless my assumption that "if it came off aligned it needs to go back aligned" is wrong I should be in good shape.

It is a big job which is why I'm skipping the nut and the rear seals, I don't think the crank is leaking but I know the exhaust cam was so with that out of the way and the experience, doing this again will be easier if need be. One thing I might have rushed are the sensor "plates" on the rear, they were taken off to fit the cam lock tool. I figured they look like they had a "up and down" so I took pictures before removal, I hope that's enough to get them back on correctly.

This is by far the biggest job I've done and far more than the PCV I did so if she starts back up with no codes I'll be a very happy camper.

[SuperHerman]

Do the two rear seals. They are easy and cheap. Everything is off and the plugs are out. You are 90% done already. It will cost you more later.

VVT issues happen usually because the VVT are not set back, you did this so you should be fine. If you understand the directions and followed them it will work. Just spin engine by hand to make sure all is well. A CEL light is better than bent valves. Also it will light on the third stop start, not first time you start it.