DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

[cn90]

Update: 1998 S70 GLT with 167K miles. Dealer replaced the R axle @ 130K miles using NAPA part.
The metal parts (CV joints, shaft etc.) are fine but the outer rubber boot split after some 37K miles.

If you read the above posts on VW-Audi boots, they fit perfectly on the INNER side.

In summary:

INNER BOOT:
- Use VW-Audi (1994 model 100 sedan); GKN 300597, Audi 893498201B, about $10.
L = 88mm, diameter 21mm and 82mm.

OUTER BOOT:
a. Non-Turbo: GKN 300427, Volvo 31256235
L = 84mm, diameter 22mm and 82mm.
This is what I used b/c the dealer replaced the R axle using Non-Turbo part, even though the car is Turbo.
This tells you that the axles (for Turbo vs Non-Turbo) are interchangeable.

b. Turbo: GKN 300439
L = 84mm, diameter 24mm and 92mm.
Use this only if you are absolutely sure your axle has this size.
When in doubt, jack up the car, remove the wheel and measure the diameters.

Some photos...

[cn90]

Another tidbit...

As already mentioned, the previous owner had the axles replaced by the Volvo dealer at 130K or so.

- The R Axle: dealer used non-turbo axle: OUTER CV Joint is 82-mm type.
- The L axle: dealer used turbo axle: OUTER CV Joint is 92-mm type. I happened to remove the LF wheel today to do an inspection, and while there measured the Outer CV Joint just to see and it was 92-mm type!

The bottom line is: before you order the CV Boot from GKN, check what you have in the car first!!!

[cn90]

Question for the axle gurus...

- I know that on the LEFT side, the axle has a circlip to hold it in place.
- On the RIGHT side, I could not find the circlip (yes I put my finger inside the trans looking for it). So I assume the support bearing (the bearing held by two 12-mm bolts and bracket) helps keep the RIGHT axle inside the trans.

So, is it true that there is no circlip on the RIGHT side?

For reference purpose, I will post a stock photo of Volvo LEFT axle below, you will see the circlip that helps hold it in the transmission. Now if you look at the photo of the RIGHT axle above, you will see no circlip.
Here is the LEFT axle photo:

[kallekula]

Question for the axle gurus...

- I know that on the LEFT side, the axle has a circlip to hold it in place.
- On the RIGHT side, I could not find the circlip (yes I put my finger inside the trans looking for it). So I assume the support bearing (the bearing held by two 12-mm bolts and bracket) helps keep the RIGHT axle inside the trans.

So, is it true that there is no circlip on the RIGHT side?

For reference purpose, I will post a stock photo of Volvo LEFT axle below, you will see the circlip that helps hold it in the transmission. Now if you look at the photo of the RIGHT axle above, you will see no circlip.
Here is the LEFT axle photo:

Correct

[akwon]

Help! I ran into a CV axle issue and could use the collective know-how of this site!

Can I remove the 36 mm CV axle nut without putting the wheels back on and bringing the car back to ride height?

To make it more complicated, the joint on the RH (passenger side) CV axle pulled out:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3e7418vipounzda/RHcvjoint.jpg?dl=0
So, am I even able to put load on this axle to break the nut without damaging the CV axle or something in the front end?

Backstory:
I've been replacing the sway bar links, control arms and tie rods on my 96 855 GLT. When I was putting the RH (passenger side) control arm back in I managed to pop the joint out of the CV axle. Don't ask.

From what I've gathered on the forum, it's possible to rebuild the joint but I'm going to have to pull off the CV axle, correct? This isn't such a bad thing (just not planned) because I noticed the boots are starting to show cracks.

[erikv11]

Correct, you will need to pull it.

I remove the axle nut all the time with the wheels in the air, using a cheap electric impact gun I got from Harbor Freight. I think an impact is your only option right now, and I don't think it will damage the CV.

[akwon]

Erikv11, thanks for the tip. I'll see if I can rent an impact wrench from Home Depot or somewhere.

Sorry I can't get the picture to upload properly. There's a link to the image if anyone cares to see the mess I made.

[erikv11]

It would probably be wise to try to re-engage the CV, i.e. push it all the way in, when you go at the axle nut.

[dosbricks]

akwon, you can probably fix this in situ. More than likey nothing is damaged since the bearing steel is extremely hard and the flange tabs that hold this unit in place are soft. I would just bend the tabs on the canister out slightly--the ones that are preventing it from sliding back in--wipe off the barrel shaped bearing-- rotate and inspect it. if it looks good without any scarring or roughness, slide it back in, gently tap the tabs back back down, and reinstall the boot = done deal.

erik, what do you think about this simplified approach?? OK or not?

[erikv11]

Sounds spot on, I agree it could be done in situ if the boot is still in good shape.

I guess I just wouldn't want to do it that way, prefer to have that messy axle out and on the bench. akwon did mention the boots are getting old so that a replacement is not such a bad idea. But I'm assuming one could pull the axle without much trouble.