1999 V70XC Starts but throttle not working SRS ABS Skid lite

richc233 · Post by **richc233** » 26 Mar 2015, 21:21

First, we have been having an apparent ETM problem where while driving at certain spots/speeds it chugs, won't accelerate, etc. but I am thinking this problem is different. My wife parked the car this afternoon, turned it off, the when she went to start it the SRS ABS and Skid control lights came on and it wouldn't start. She said it also was making a noise like a capacitor discharging? She kept trying and eventually got it started, but couldn't get it out of Park. Tried some more turning off and back on, then eventually put it in reverse, but pushing the accelerator pedal didn't do anything - no revving and the same if put back into park. The 3 lights were also still on. She got a ride home and I went back to check it a few hours later, and it started fine seemed like it was OK (no warning lights), then I tried to drive it and the 3 lights went on again and the pedal again was not working.

Turned it off and tried to start it again and it wouldn't turn over - sounded like a bad battery "click". I put a voltmeter on the battery and it was only a little over 9v. I looked in the cells and the water was low but covering the plates, so I put in distilled water. I disconnected the Positive terminal because there was a little white powder on it, though it was pretty clean under the terminal. Reconnected and jump started it, the warning lights were not on, let it run for about 20 minutes, then the warning light were on again and the pedal wouldn't work again. Turned it off and couldn't start it again without jumping.

I had also put the meter on it while the engine was running and I think it showed a little over 10v though I thought it should show over 12v when it is charging - not sure if it could be an alternator/regulator problem. I took the battery out and brought it home, planning to go to Volvo to replace the battery - I think it is about 4 years old and I got it from Volvo after having bad luck with other batteries. After the battery sat for a couple of hours tonight it now is reading over 11v. I am trying to charge it with a 12 volt 5 amp power adapter now, as I don't have an actual car battery charger.

I hope this isn't too much detail but it seems like a strange problem to me. Could the bad battery be causing the problem with not be able to drive/rev the engine? I saw some posts about the anti-theft causing problems, so I was thinking maybe it isn't reading the key properly, but I thought it wouldn't start if that was the problem.

Hoping for someone with an idea by the morning so I can get this car running.

Thanks,
Rich

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 27 Mar 2015, 00:59

A bad electrical portion of the ignition switch can cause your problems. The next time it acts up try to jiggle the key and see if things change.

...Lee

Post by **precopster** » 27 Mar 2015, 03:32

If you have 10V across battery while engine is running you need a regulator for the alternator. The new battery will also decrease in voltage to 10V and below if you don't address the charging system first.

The ABS lights and brake system failure light will come on at around 8.5V. I''ve been through an on-road sudden regulator failure so I know the symptoms all too well. The new battery I bought just got me home over a journey of around 15kms then I had to address the alternator. By the way you can swap the regulator over without removing the alternator if it's a non turbo.

Post by **abscate** » 27 Mar 2015, 05:23

You need to start with a fully charged battery. Take it somewhere and have it charged, I don't recommend using a DC supply to charge it as you can easily cook it. If you have been driving around with the plates uncovered it probably is no good.

Ignition switch, electrical part is a common failure mode on these cars and will give all the symptoms you report.

Low voltage will take out both your ETM and your transmission ( electrically controlled) so, again, the battery has to be known good before you can troubleshoot effectively.

richc233 · Post by **richc233** » 27 Mar 2015, 07:06

Thanks for all the replies! The battery charged overnight and is 12.15 volts now. The plates were still covered when I added water so hopefully the battery is still good, though I did see a little white build-up on some of the plates. It is a Turbo so I guess the regulator is harder to replace? How hard/easy is pulling the alternator, and do you think a Volvo dealer will replace the regulator or just the whole alternator? I am going to bring the battery to the car this morning and hope it runs!

Thanks,
Rich

Post by **precopster** » 27 Mar 2015, 07:26

I purchased 3 of these so far and all still running perfectly;: no need to replace alternator. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... j9e7hhb0ke

Use this link if you need to remove and fit the regulator:

Removing alternator is not too difficult through the top just remove upper radiator hose. Loosen lower a/c compressor bolts 3 or 4 turns then remove upper a/c bolts completely. There's one more 12mm bolt from the front of the engine near the accessory tensioner. Also remove signal lead and positive (red) lead at rear of alternator.

richc233 · Post by **richc233** » 27 Mar 2015, 10:09

Yes, It Worked! Started it up and drove it home about 10 minutes. I am leaving it running to see if it will charge more than the 11.25 volts it shows now, but I suppose it won't if the alternator is not putting out the voltage it should. Just for reference, what voltage should I see at the battery when the alternator/voltage regulator is working properly - I would think 13+ right? Do you think it is possibly the alternator itself?

Thanks,
Rich

richc233 · Post by **richc233** » 27 Mar 2015, 10:33

I left it running about 1/2 hour and now it turned itself off. The voltage is back to 9v. I thought it would at least keep running, everything electrical was turned off in the car. I am just not sure if I also need a battery.

Thanks,
Rich

Herb Goltz · Post by **Herb Goltz** » 27 Mar 2015, 10:45

Hello Rich:

You want to see 13.7-14.1 VDC with the car running. The dealer won't put in a regulator for you-- they will sell you an overpriced alternator you don't need. Mike's source for the regulator has a fantastic price. You should also measure the alternator output at the thick red wire on the alternator to see what kind of voltage drops are occurring because of the battery cables (they are a common failure point on these cars). In fact, I would measure voltage drops on the positive, negative and B+ cables (you can read about that here-- it is easy to do with a voltmeter). My suspicion is that your battery is toast, but take it to an Autozone and have it load tested-- resting voltage tells an incomplete story.

Report back with measurements-- good luck!

richc233 · Post by **richc233** » 27 Mar 2015, 11:20

On this car I can't get to the post on the alternator without taking things apart - not sure if it is because it is the turbo model or the year. I just charged the battery for about 10 minutes with a portable jump starter/battery and it charged right up to 11.5 volts and I started it up again. After a few minutes it was back down to 9.4 volts. Not sure if this means that the battery is bad if it losing the charging and discharging so quickly.

Thanks,
Rich