2000 V70R - Now it begins -Rear AWD sub-frame replacement

Blockpartie · Post by **Blockpartie** » 13 Apr 2015, 19:21

Just take the fuel tank out with the subframe.
While not exactly easier, you will want to service the fuel system components anyway. The lines on top of the tank are prone to rusting through. Part of the fuel system is bolted to the subframe anyway, such as the expansion tank and all the misc parts (oscillation damper, interconnecting lines, evap vent(s) and so on).
When removing the expansion tank it is likely that the aluminium mounting point will crumble away and/or the bolts will snap. Plan accordingly.

When removing the whole assembly check the following items:
1) hand brake cables disconnected and out of the way
2) brake lines disconnected at the jacking point. Very important!
3) fuel filler neck loosed at the gas door
4) fuel filler neck brace removed
5) flexible fuel lines disconnected from hardlines. There are differences between the return style system and returnless system so know what your car has ('99 & '00 are returnless)
6) all wiring disconnected in the trunk area

Would like some pictures of how everything looks on your car. Generally this level of deterioration is unusual.
Interesting with the brake discs - I was told they were not available :/

Post by **scot850** » 13 Apr 2015, 22:49

I'm not sure how available the discs are, but I know Tasca had access to 3 or 4 sets of discs when I contacted them.

I had been hoping to leave the tank in place, as I don't know how to support it as the axle is dropped. The dealer info shows it hanging on the 2 hoops that loop through the front of the lower sub-frame. Also I have probably 4-6 liters of gas still in the tank which would be 10-12lbs of additional weight.

Can I leave the remaining fuel in there and drop the tank supported only by the 2 hoops? I would worry they would not be able to support the tank.

My original plan was to drop the rear sub-frame with the tank still supported in place, and then drop the tank later for inspection of the pipes and fittings (I know that they can be fragile). What did make me doubt this would be possible is that the fuel filter and emissions tank look to be attached to the top of the sub-frame with in-accessible fittings.

I can remove the Schraeder valve at the injector manifold and run the remaining fuel into a canister. I have the battery on charge just in case.

If I can drop just the sub-frame first, and the tank later, that would be preferable.

Neil.

Blockpartie · Post by **Blockpartie** » 14 Apr 2015, 05:24

tl;dr:
Drop frame and tank as one.

As I said in my previous post there are indeed parts of the fuel system installed on the top of the frame. The whole assembly is designed to be installed/removed as one.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Apr 2015, 05:32

Out of curiosity, are you going to change the fuel pump while you are there? This seems almost like changing the rear main seal, even though it is fine, when you have the transmission out for another reason.

...Lee

Post by **scot850** » 14 Apr 2015, 10:17

I understand you can remove all as one, but the issue is that the Volvo info has a cradle/frame that supports the fuel tank and the sub-frame together and they lower it onto the cradle with a hoist, and then raise the car. I don't have this luxury, so how do you safely lower the 2 together?

My second point is, do I need to find a way to remove the last 4-5 litres of fuel to do this safely?

Lee, I've thought about the fuel pump, but it was recently tested as giving 60 psi by the dealer, and is not noisy. The price is huge for an OE one, and not a big fan of aftermarket. I know you or someone else recently mentioned a Bosch item that is cheap (ish) with quiet running. Does it need modification to fit or work? I do plan to check all pipes and other stuff as I will have to drop the fuel tank to run the ABS sensor wires. I am a great believer of, "When you are in there it makes sense to....".

When I had the RMS replaced, I had the front MS, cam seals, water pump, cam belt, all trans seals, and the angle gear and sleeves all done. So I don't tend to skimp on stuff, but at $400+ for an OE pump, even I am baulking at that. So far I will have to replace the ABS rear sensors, the rear prop-shaft and VC bolts, and I have already replaced all the rear brakes with the exception of the rear calipers and flex lines. Calipers are NA and I am worried that if I remove the lines as Volvo says (dumb-asses ran the hard line through the rear jacking point which has to come off), and the rear caliper bleed screws don't look too healthy. So enough expense!!

If parts list isn't too high, I may re-visit the fuel pump. But then you have the cover which goes brittle, the seal and, and...... all of which are stupid expensive.

Thanks for the support and advice guys!

Neil.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Apr 2015, 15:18

The OEM pump on a XC and presumably the R is actually a Walbro and I couldn't source a direct replacement for it even with the Walbro part number on the cartridge. The way the package is put together you need to have the exact same dimensions on the replacement cartridge and it is a different size than the Walbro replacements that many of us use on the FWD cars.

At the end of the day it really isn't that tough to chop the hole in the floor to get to it. When I changed the pump on the latest XC It took me all of an hour start to finish but I had just changed that pump on my old XC about 3 weeks earlier and everything was still fresh in my mind. Even the first one only took me 3 or 4 hours being real careful.

...Lee

Post by **scot850** » 14 Apr 2015, 16:00

Tasca has the OE pump at $330 + shipping, but in CDN$ that is $400+ shipping! What is confusing me is that the Vida parts drawing shows 2 pumps! A left and right. Surely this is wrong?!

Made some progress, got the trunk wiring removed and pushed under the floor (including the hidden earth cable). I managed to get the 2 smaller middle sub-frame mounting bolts out without breaking them, cleaned and re-installed for now. Tried the RH bolts but no luck again.

I have now drilled a small hole above each of the end bolts and pumped loads of Deep Creep into them with a nozzle. I'll keep doing this over night and start to build a support for the fuel tank. With luck and a grinder, hopefully the sub-frame might yield tomorrow if time allows.

I'm going to have a look at the service history to see if the fuel pump(s) have been replaced before. I know some of the rear hard brake lines were replaced in the past, so maybe the fuel pump was done at the same time.

As my car has the 2.5l B5244T2 engine, most web-sites in North America don't list this option, only the older 2.3l. So finding part numbers is a challenge. Also my version of Vida, does not give specific info for my Vin # YV1LV60D2Y2651774. Only site that lists it correctly is IPD, but even there sometimes parts don't line up.

Thanks,

Neil.

Neil.

Blockpartie · Post by **Blockpartie** » 14 Apr 2015, 17:42

The OEM pump on an AWD is NOT a Walbro. Hence why you can't get replacements from them. Branding is irrelevant.

Neil: You have two pumps, congratulations. One pumps fuel to the engine, the other fuel from one side of the tank to the other. You will need a year specific AWD pump or the wiring will not match.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Apr 2015, 20:01

Blockpartie wrote:The OEM pump on an AWD is NOT a Walbro. Hence why you can't get replacements from them. Branding is irrelevant.

Neil: You have two pumps, congratulations. One pumps fuel to the engine, the other fuel from one side of the tank to the other. You will need a year specific AWD pump or the wiring will not match.

I guess my vision sucks worse than I thought.

That was the original from my first '99 XC and the second, also original, was identical.

...Lee

Post by **scot850** » 14 Apr 2015, 23:10

I'm still in a state of shock! It is bad enough Volvo make such a stupid design requiring you to disassemble the whole of the rear suspension to get to the pump, but then, lets find a way to make it even more stupid by designing a fuel tank that needs 2 pumps! Then lets make a stupid price so we can sucker an owner to replace both as it is cheaper than removing the tank twice. Oh, and let's make use of 2 different pumps and the transfer pump is $30 US more expensive! It will be close to $900 Canadian for the 2 pumps with shipping. Do all AWD P80's have 2 pumps or is it just the 'R'?

This car has really got me pissed now. It will be on the market as soon as it is fixed. Really, really tired of fixing one expensive item just for another to go immediately. I'll rebuild it and dump it. Just went through the past history and no sign of any pump(s) being replaced.

Neil.