We trying to fix a 1983 volvo 244 model, prob fuel intake

Post by **billofdurham** » 11 Mar 2007, 13:27

checked the spark plugs and they all dirty again

If you are not driving the car, only letting the engine idle whilst you work on it, the plugs will become black and look fouled. The engine needs a good run to clear out all the rubbish that has gathered whilst it has been standing and running at idle speeds.

we did the timing and left it aroun 7 degrees

The correct timing for that engine is 12 degrees. You can go to 15 degrees but it should not be less than 12.

These carburettors can be tuned but it is not recommended as a DIY job because it should be connected to a CO meter. In fact in some countries the adjustment is be sealed to stop the 'handyman' from interfering with it.

An Air Mass Meter is for fuel injected cars.

The easiest way to test the vacuum on the distributor is to pull the pipe off then increase the engine revs slightly above idling speed. Hold the revs steady and put the pipe back onto the vacuum regulator. You should notice a slight change in the engine speed.

Bill.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 11 Mar 2007, 22:21

The easiest way to test the vacuum on the distributor is to pull the pipe off

thats one thing i never have a clue where to get it off from? i guess from the distributor like the same maniober you do for timing... nop? but i sware there is zero vacuming there. I am pretty sure i am just a little loss about this... will keep readin you, and all these books and internet stuff for days till i find some answer thou!

i have a gauge for meassuring positive vacuming preassure... can i use it??

Now the 12 degrees question... i totally dont distrust you, but that's not the number they use in the owner manual nor in haynes... the Volvo owners manual says 7 degrees +/- 2, while Haynes advices the same as you for earlier models and only 8 degrees for the ones in between '81 and '84 fo Canadian Models as mine is (sorry but i think never told this before)
(mine is Canadian 1983).

Any way, the car was running at 15 degrees and we lowered at maybe 8, i can actually say a real number cuz the notch is not so steady... moves lots its not punctual... dunno if the timing gun is not a very good one or something else is wrong. hopefully not.

So as i read your last answer... is there any way i can make the mix richer and know is not that bad for COx?
Not having a Tachometer; what can i do, or in case i get one is there any place i can conect it? so i can check the RPM for idling and throtteling?

Sorry been too inquiring, but i hope you enjoying the challenge this car is offering us all!!!

thanks million and one more...
have the best time!

Sergio.

Post by **billofdurham** » 12 Mar 2007, 13:09

Now the 12 degrees question

Sergio,

I must apologise for my mistake. You did say at the start of this thread that your car was Canadian. My manual, for UK cars, has a very small footnote about the timing on Canadian cars being 7 degrees. Now I have learned something from you.

dunno if the timing gun is not a very good one

Have you marked your timing marks with a dot of white paint? You may get the marks moving if the idle speed rises and falls, even slightly. This is normal. Also, if the vacuum system to the distributor is working you will get movement. The timing should be done with the vacuum pipe removed from the distributor.

The distributor vacuum pipe is a very thin pipe which runs from just below the carb to the vacuum control on the distributor. The vacuum control is a circular metal box bolted to the side of the distributor. If you think that you don't have vacuum remove the pipe from the distributor and blow through it, whilst it is still attached to the carb. If you think there is a blockage remove the pipe from the carb and blow through the pipe again to make sure it is clear. If it is clear then, with a very fine probe, check to see if the hole into the carb is clear. You can't do any damage as you are not going directly into the carb. I have known these to become blocked.

I should think you could use a vacuum gauge if the pipe is not too small to fit on it.

To tune the carb is complicated but the Haynes manual should give a good description of how to do it. One piece of kit that could help you is a Gunson ColourTune: http://www.topgear-sales.co.uk/product. ... =10&xdid=3. I have had one for many years and it still gets used on carbs. It is no good for injected engines. I am not sure of their availability in Canada but I have seen some on eBay. It does not measure CO or other emissions.

On your car a tachometer would probably connect to the low tension side of the ignition system. If you buy one it will have instructions.

Again, apologies for the timing mistake.

Bill.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 14 Mar 2007, 13:47

Hi Bill, I was looking for prices for Head Cylinder Gasket kits and they dont have the whole kit in the retailer, but i have seen some online but never say the whole engine type.

for example this one says B21 240 turbo.
and that i know there is the B21F turbo... does this set fit my engine block? been mine a B21A.

at least the head cylinder gasket and the valve stem seals?
I am sure the O seal for the water pumo would work fine and someother, but i dont think the intake gasket would... but i dont mean to take the intake off... can leave it there, same the exhaust... just taking the head gasket with all of it... than conecting hoses back i their places, have all targeted already.

cuz itz really much more cheaper then the volvo retailer here.
thanx.

I am opening the head cylinder off today if posssible but still dont have any head cylinder gasket set, bad bad bad!

bye Bill

Sergio.

Post by **billofdurham** » 14 Mar 2007, 14:19

Sergio,

I think the head gasket for the B21A and the B21FT (turbo) should be the same. They use the same engine (same bore and same stroke in the engine).

It looks to me that not many carb models, if any, were sold in the US. UK and Canadian models of the year of yours were nearly all carbs.

This site has gasket sets listed for B21 engine '76 to '85. They do not mention A; E; F or turbo so it looks as though the same set will work.

http://www.vlvworld.com/200/Section_0_2_engine.htm. Go down the list and click on 'Engine Gaskets & Seals'.

Bill.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 15 Mar 2007, 04:04

been reading the oneyou sent and others, and trying comparising the pics...
anyway i hadthis website , got in contact with the sels people and they told me not good but they ship for free to a friend in the states and we can pick it up soon... then if i compare them and not good , just send them back and pay one shipping trip... get my money back so no that bad...

and as you said, i am pretty sure too they are the same gasket for the head cylinder and of course same seals for the valve stem and some other parts.

and the price for them is only fiftysome usd.. good price!

my retailer was selling one for doble price and didnt include anything just the head cylinder gasket! crazy!

so in the meantime will be gettin parts out of the way, theres alor of things if you follow the haynes manual, but i am making just the les the possible so nothing gets lost of wrong.

you actually thin i have to move the distributor to get the head cylinder off??? or the water pump?? hmmm i was thinking only removing the pulley with the timing belt and the belt tension spring, whatever the name is... and then bolt out the caps one by one.. of course removing sparkplugs wires etc... fan too.

also will try not removing the exhaust nor intake manifold so i dont have to use those gaskets in case they are not alike in the kit i ordered...

have any other important advices in the sleeve? or this kinda big job to a not so ig mechanic?

thanks alot again bill.

one think haven't get yet and i am asking aroun to people is the Gunson ColourTune...
have a nice day.

Post by **billofdurham** » 15 Mar 2007, 13:39

I don't know which version of Haynes you have but mine does not show a cylinder head gasket as a job on its own. It is included in a full engine out and re-build, so many of the parts they say have to be removed can stay on.

First is the bonnet/hood. Open it to its vertical position. It is not necessary to remove it for a head gasket.

Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm only, to prevent breakage.

or the water pump?? hmmm i was thinking only removing the pulley with the timing belt and the belt tension spring, whatever the name is.

Did you intend removing the water pump pulley? It is not necessary to touch the water pump. Remove the timing belt cover, slacken the tensioner and remove the belt.

The exhaust manifold can stay on, just separate the exhaust pipe from it. This makes the head heavier on one side than the other but is not a problem if you know that.

or this kinda big job to a not so ig mechanic?

I have told others on this forum and off it that I changed my first head gasket 35 years ago and thought I would go wrong. I took my time, followed the manual, checked every step two or three times and it worked. If you feel comfortable doing the job go for it and Good Luck.

Bill.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 22 Mar 2007, 02:11

Well, today i decided my self and went there to take it off, after disconnecting lots of hoses from the intake manifold and some tubes etc, i loose the bolts from the exhaust, not the mainfold but the other three that connect to the rest of the exhaust system... supposed to be the hardest thing became kinda eassy.

then the prob started... trying to loosen the bolts of the head cylinder one of them was especially tight so after a few tries my ratchet got broken... got the torque wrench... (shouldn't had used the ratchet in the first place but just realized too late of that!) and kept loosen them, like Haynes advices 1/4 a time each in the inverse order they suppose to get tighten so... then I realized the same screw that broke my ratchet was more tight than the others and kept ike this all the way out, seamed to me it was cross threading in the block... so i got really annoyed... cuz actually the rest of the bolts were totaly loose after just 120 degrees... but this still really bad... well, took this out and while the rest look really lubricated this is totally rusted all along the bolt!!! could it be some water running out the water way and rusting this bolt or just dont got lubricated when they put it in?? is this comun? should i change it??

after been a while trying to lift the whole head cylinders off, and still taking off more hoses had not seen before... well decided to leave it for tomorrow and try some other tricks... seams to be atached to some other stuff in the lower hiden part... so tomorow going there earlier the possible and get it out, if i can...

so any advices for this final event on the first half of the work???
have a very nice day! take good care! best regards,
thanks lots as ussual,
sergio.

Post by **billofdurham** » 22 Mar 2007, 13:02

Who would own a car? They are a constant source of trouble and should be banned.

The sticking bolt may have taken water in somehow - bad workmanship letting water into the hole when the head was off previously, gasket leak or just not oiled (bad workmanship too). If the bolt was dry when it came out then there is no water in the hole now. Run some oil onto the threads in the hole and try one of the other bolts in it to see if it turns easily and is not cross threaded. If you feel that you have put too much stress on the rusty bolt then replace it. Better to do that than risk it failing.

I can't work out what could be holding the head on if you have removed everything. The only thing I can come up with is the gasket is holding it in place. If it won't come off by lifting you may need to use a small hammer and a block of wood. Place the block of wood so it is above the gasket line and hit it with the hammer. The jarring effect may pull the gasket free.

Most jobs on cars will turn up a problem. Hopefully this is yours and everything will be straightforward from now on.

Bill.

sergitin32 · Post by **sergitin32** » 23 Mar 2007, 20:29

just got the head cylinders off yesterday... but havent had time to check it out again, the bolt was totally rusted and totally dry , so it makes me think water doesn't currently run over there... more than all it looks like they missed putting oil the time before this was done. and because of the rust the bolt looks really wared to me, so i might go to the retailer to change it for a new one.

the rest, still waiting for the gaskets to arrive here will be hopefully for next week... in the mean while will do a good lapping and cleaning of the whole chamber... and try everything to be totally neat and clean for when installation.

will keep posting you about things happening all along the working...
thanks for such a helpfull forum.
sergio.