2000 V70XC sucks the glove but still smoking

clank · Post by **clank** » 27 Apr 2015, 18:23

Cleared the PCV system, now it sucks in the glove over the oil filler hole, no more smoking dipstick, but it still billows oil smoke from the tailpipe. If you drive or just rev it up it is worse. Too much smoke to be able to drive it. I can now see oil drip from the catalytic converter. Could it be the turbo or valve seals? Could it just be build up of oil burning off? It has 175,000Km.
About a week ago the smoke started, and it was sluggish. Attached the glove over the oil filler and it blew up like a ballon. Smoke puffing out the dipstick hole. I chainged the oil, then cleaned out the pcv system. It was blocked at the lower crankcase hole for oil to drain back into, and at the vacuum line attached on the left bottom of the intake manifold banjo bolt. Only a little crud inside the PCT. Cleared out everything including dropping the oil pan. I found an o-ring in the pan that must not have stayed in place when it was installed before. New o-rings now. Cleaned out the air intake to the turbo. It was pretty clean, hardly any oil residue. The turbo spins freely. I can slightly move it side to side, less so, in and out. Compression test was 200lbs each clyinder. I've only driven it around the block a couple of times when it was dark out, and I have let it idle in the driveway for long periods, occasionally revving it up. Also there was oil dripping from the seep hole, and it still is. I've been searching all forums trying to find out if it could be build up of oil burning off or not. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Post by **misha** » 27 Apr 2015, 18:55

Do a compression test again.

Raw oil dripping from a cat or exhaust means that oil control rings are pretty worn or just a bad turbo.Bad valve stem seals can't be a reason for that amount of raw oil in exhaust manifold.

When oil smoke(blue smoke) is getting worse when you rev the engine or drive the car it means that piston rings are worn.It could also be a bad turbo,but you said that it's in good shape.
When blue smoke clears when you rev it up and after you drive...it's just bad valve stem seals.
In your case the engine smokes upon acceleration and load.

Valve stem seals can also produce the smoke under load and when you rev the engine,but it usually means that there are no seals anymore on valves.

beoutside · Post by **beoutside** » 27 Apr 2015, 19:59

I would check compression and do a leak down test, I've rebuilt two Volvo heads both with a burnt exhaust valve both smoked on occasion. The hydraulic lifters in the 98, 99, 00, are famous for failing after 150000 causing a burnt valve. At least the two we own both had identical issues. Compression showed high in all other cylinders as is typical of these Swedish motors. After the rebuild now showing 170 across the board. No smoke, runs great.
I had thought it was the PVC as others mentioned but a leak down test really shows what the issue can be when done properly.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 27 Apr 2015, 20:50

How much oil do you use? It could be the hot side oil seal on the turbo.

...Lee

clank · Post by **clank** » 27 Apr 2015, 21:41

Thanks for all the replies, good advice. I'm leaning towards the turbo because there is SOOOOO much smoke. I wasn't sure if a leak on the hot side only wouldn't cause more oil to be all over the intake side as well. I was surprised at how clean it was. I think it is the best exlanation for soooo much oil seemingly going directly into exhaust and even dripping out of the cat.
I wanted some re-assurance before taking anything else apart. I have read I should remove/take apart the turbo from the top, remove heat shield. Also read I should take it out from underneath and remove the pass side axle. Can anyone lead me to a proceedure correct for my car for taking out the turbo?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 27 Apr 2015, 22:56

The turbo comes out from the top but for exploratory purposes I would unbolt the downpipe and have a look-see. The downpipe typically has enough slop that you can disconnect it from the turbo but be careful with the input flange to the downpipe, that is a real weak point in the exhaust and I have had one break right at the flange.

My muffler guy tack welded it back but he couldn't get all the way around it to weld it properly and the ultimate solution was going to be to replace the downpipe and the cat but the car got wrecked before I had to make that very painful investment.

...Lee

MrGruffles · Post by **MrGruffles** » 28 Apr 2015, 11:42

Since you mention the car started smoking suddenly and that there is in-and-out (shaft) play on the turbo, I'm more inclined think that the turbo has failed (seals and/or bearings) than a worn engine. I put an allegedly rebuilt turbo on my 1994 850 wagon. Ten days later I had oil all over the underside of the car and midway to work it started billowing greyish-white smoke - so much that it was like a smoke grenade. I pulled the "rebuilt" turbo to find massive side-to-side and in-and-out (shaft) play. I installed a new CHRA assembly and the smoke soon disappeared (it took a little time for the residual in the exhaust to burn off.)

clank · Post by **clank** » 28 Apr 2015, 16:18

I am attempting to remove the oil return line first, hoping to find it clogged. If it's clear I will have to go ahead and remove the turbo. I've been messing around with extentions, swivels and the like but have not been able to reach the one hex bolt. I've read a lot of posts about removing the bolts but not found a good explanation of which direction to reach in, and I know that it will need long extension and swivel but what order to place them in the chain. If you know what I mean.
The movement I detected in the turbo shaft was side to side, which I think is normal.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 28 Apr 2015, 18:46

On an XC it is just plain tough to get the oil return line off since the transfer case is smack dab in the way. The last time I dealt with an XC return line was with the engine out of the car and it is, of course, easy then. IPD sells some swivel allen sockets that are supposed to make the job possible but I can't vouch for them.

A small amount of end play - as in under 0.010" or so - is typical but if it is much more than that it is starting to mean trouble. The end play really isn't related to the seal as much as it is the backer plate and the bearings wearing.

...Lee

clank · Post by **clank** » 29 Apr 2015, 20:04

I got a 1/4 drive hex bit driver and it fit in there no problem to get the return line off. It was not plugged. So now I move on to taking the turbo out. Does anyone know where I can get a rebuild kit in Canada? Specifically in Ontario? How do I know for sure what turbo I have, and the correct kit to get? As far as I know its 13T superback.