Volvo XC90 Front Brake Job

[90jules]

I know this is an older post but thought I'd share my experience.

I agree with Song and others that you can remove the entire caliper using only the 2 18mm bolts, however removing the 7 mm hex pins allows you to clean up and apply new lube. These pins allow the caliper to slide freely, not much more time as long as you have the 7mm hex tool.

+1 on OEM rotors and akebono pads!

The only thing remaining is changing the brake fluid...seems I have one that is clogged. Any suggestions?

[dgale]

My front pads were shot, including metal or metal on the left side...way past time to deal with it. Simple repair - I've done lots of front brakes in my life and my XC90 is about the simplest I've done. Thanks for the write-up and other advice here so I knew what to expect. I bought the OEM rotors and akebono pads from IPD. I also bought the caliper pin bushing sets from them - at first I wasn't going to as they seemed unreasonably expensive for a few pieces of rubber but then I went ahead and got them, figuring I'd do it right the first time...I was surprised to see that these bushing sets include two identical bushings, despite the XC90 having pins that are different lengths. The provided bushings match the shorter of the two pins, so I replaced the shorter (lower) pin bushings and had to reuse the longer upper ones. This left me with one unused set, which I guess I'll return if it's worth the trouble. I'm a bit surprised IPD missed this, as they have always been on it when it came to getting volvo parts right.

[gabbicastellano]

Thank you so much for this thread. I plan to do my brakes in a few days. I'm just waiting for the parts needed.
The write-ups on this thread are simply amazing.

Just a note on the parts that I purchased...
I initially wanted to go all OEM on the rotors and the pads. After doing some research, a few people mentioned the beauty of ceramic pads and that it completely eliminates the brake dust problem. I figured I'd give it a try so I got myself a set of Akebono pads.

As for the rotors, the dealer wanted $800 for the whole set!
FCP/IPD sells them cheap but since I live all the way from Australia, the shipping cost would still be very expensive. I then researched a bit and found out that the stock rotors are made by ATE.
I then googled their distributor here and was able to source out a set for $500.

Also, I was told by the dealer that the new Volvo OEM rotors now aren't made by ATE anymore, and if he's not mistaken, are sourced in China now.
So if anyone wants a cheaper alternative that is literally OEM standards, I would recommend them.

[walleye vision]

I'm preparing to do my rotors and pads in two days (first brake job ever) on my 2008 XC90 Sport V8. I've been doing a little more research and came across some links that said the 18mm bolts must be replaced with new bolts when you change and loc-tight must be added to the threads. Is this true or can I use the old bolts? Should I use loc-tight? If so what color?

Also I can't find any thing about what ft/lbs to torque the 18mm bolts.

I'd really appreciate some help because I really want to get this done soon.

Thanks all.

[regent]

Just noticed this post has been around for a few weeks...
If you are 100% certain that the bolts have never been over-torqued, then it is OK to re-use them. If you are not, it is safer to replace them. If you re-use, make sure your threads are clean of rust and dust and Loctite residue, and then follow the torque specs when you tighten:

30 Nm for the pins (7mm Allen)
110 Nm for the caliper bracket bolts (18mm hex)

Blue Loctite would be just fine (any kind that would not require heat to break apart at the next job).
Make sure your flange surfaces are clean (where the disc meets the hub) - no burrs no dust, and apply some anti-seize before installing the disc. Put some anti-seize on the disc retainer bolt and torque to 12 Nm.
When you're installing the wheels, it is critical to tighten the lugs in 2-3 increments in a star-pattern to minimize disc run-out. Re-torque the lugs again after the first 50 miles (or after bedding in the new brakes and when everything is cold to the touch)

[spender99]

So is it a big job or not to just replace pads? Don't want to do the rotors too, seems to add a lot of work. Thanks.

[Ou2mame]

Discs are super easy. Look on YouTube, there are some diy videos.

[T5AUS]

I am just about to check my pads but at this stage over Xmas I just want to remove the left front wheel caliper to to clean it up, I have a howling squeel right when I have almost come to a stop, very noisy. So, will pull it apart and try to neutralise this noise with a good clean and a bit of grease on the parts that are in contact, metal to metal etc, obviously staying clear of disc and pad faces. Anyone ever had this problem and cured it?

[cn90]

Yes,

Use anti-squeal compound where the pads meet the caliper/piston areas.

[gstallons]

#1I do NOT compress brake calipers w/o loosening the bleed screw and expel the fluid out the bleeder . This does not allow fluid back into the hydraulic system . This ensures no problem w/contaminated fluid going back into the ABS components.
#2 Also , where the pad slides are , I clean up this segment with a wire brush and spray dry film graphite on this guide before reassembly.
#3 It is imperative to "turn" or replace all brake rotors. I try to reuse rotors because they are better quality than ( most ) aftermarket rotors. It doesn't matter how good they look , the pads need a parallel and new surface to seat against .
Most owners think they are saving $$$ by doing it themselves.
#4 Stopping is more important than accelerating with a vehicle. Do not be distracted while you are doing any work. Do not be afraid to take pics while you are taking things apart. Use quality parts. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
IF you know what you are doing you will enjoy knowing you are doing a good PM .