1998 v70xc Wont start after head rebuild

CorneliusSourdough · Post by **CorneliusSourdough** » 10 May 2015, 16:32

Hello MVS,
After trolling the site for many many hours here is my first post. 1 of my 98xc wagons burned a valve driving across the country. What better way to delve into Volvo repair than going for the gold? I pulled the head, replaced all the valve stem seals, put in 10 new exhaust valves, new gaskets all around. New water pump, timing belt, tensioners, rollers, ect. I really went all out probably in excess of 100 hours of labor. Not only did I hand lap all of the valves, I hand lapped the head itself. For that process I used silica carbide grit on large pieces of flat glass. Whoa what an undertaking!

Today I finally got everything put back together, put in new fluids and turned the key...to no avail. The car cranks over fine and sounds like it will start but it never does. I am basically at my whits end. This project has been going on for several months and tomorrow I am leaving for my summer job 3000 miles away. I really didn't want to have to come home to this ongoing project and the thought of donating the car crossed my mind several times in my defeated low.

I've decided to let the car sit for another three months until I come home in September. I feel like spark plugs are potential culprits. Any other things I should consider? If not the spark plugs I feel like the problem could be located in the throttle body. Its getting gas and presumably air and spark so I have no idea.

Much thanks in advance for your responses. Special thanks to Robert Spinner and Ozark Lee- they have been constant sources for wisdom and inspiration.

Something very disconcerting a few drops of oil/coolant dripping. I think that this was just from spilling the fluids upon fill up but scary non the less. Any and all thoughts are welcome.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 10 May 2015, 18:17

What did you use as a guide for the spark plug wire locations on the distributor when you put things back together? If you used a Haynes manual it is dead wrong and even the Volvo factory manual has the rotation reversed. My guess is it is something simple.

...Lee

Post by **jimmy57** » 10 May 2015, 22:18

It is very easy to put the reluctor that the cam position sensor is triggered by on 180 degrees off. This will make it spark in the exhaust stroke instead of power stroke. The reluctor is stamped to give it the alignment tabs for cam end and it will catch one instead of both and sort of fall in place. WHen you tighten that bolt with the large washer that holds the reluctor it flattens the other tab.

CorneliusSourdough · Post by **CorneliusSourdough** » 11 May 2015, 05:36

I left the wires connected to the distributor when I pulled the ignition system. This was to aid in correct re-installation. I do not think that is the problem.

Is the reluctor the kind of black tab/scallop that covers half the exhaust cam? I did initially try putting the cam position sensor on upside down so this could likely be a source of failure. Unfortunately I won't be able to get back to the car until September so closure will be a ways away.

What should its proper orientation be?

As always thanks for your responses.

Post by **abscate** » 11 May 2015, 07:43

Ping us in September when you return. You know you are missing the Great Robert Spinner volvo help tour east coast, right?

Make sure you put that battery on a trickle charger for three months. It is also good to have some crank it over once a month.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 May 2015, 08:20

The cam position sensor trigger window really only goes on one way but it can go on backwards, it just doesn't seat all the way. It is keyed to the slot on the back of the camshaft which is offset from center.
It is worth a look.

I think we will skip most of the other timing questions, a guy that trues his own cylinder head by hand doesn't screw up a timing belt installation.

...Lee