1994 Volvo 850 No Crank, Code 313

rebecca8 · Post by **rebecca8** » 01 Jun 2015, 14:11

Hello,
I can't remember if I've read that letting a dying PNP go for too long (couple years) w/o replacing it can burn out the starter. Just coming here to confirm because I can't seem to find the answer elsewhere. I've let the issues go because it only gave me problems in very cold weather, and I don't drive the car much anymore. (Up arrow, trans in limp mode, code 313) I recently drove it somewhere though, and when I went to start it back up, it just clicks once, no crank. Lights go on, but nothing else happens. I also have noticed a strange noise periodically (once in a great while) shortly after starting the car. It is like that "powering down" noise in movies when someone pulls down one of those big levers to shut down power somewhere. (Sorry, that's the best way I can explain it.) Does anyone have a guess what that noise could be, sounds very electrical? I was going to take the switch out and clean it up, but not sure if I should order a starter too, as I may have damaged it by letting this issue go too long.
Thanks,
Rebecca

Post by **FLXC90** » 01 Jun 2015, 18:14

You may have killed the starter, sounds like the overrun was not kicking the bendix spring away from the ring gear when starting in the past. You say the lights all come on when the key is in pos II, then click, do the lights dim when it clicks? Is your battery fully charged? try a jump to see if more voltage turns it over.

rebecca8 · Post by **rebecca8** » 01 Jun 2015, 20:26

Thanks for responding. No, the lights do not dim, and it only clicks once. I will take your advice to see if more voltage helps at all. I think I'm going to also try rowing the shifter a lot more. I'm wondering if the switch could also be stuck, and has disengaged the starter.

Post by **abscate** » 02 Jun 2015, 09:56

You can also have starter trouble caused by the very short piece of wire between the solenoid (mounted on the starter) and the actual starter motor. Th usual symptom there is a short delay between the key turn and cranking (like 1/4 second or less) then,one day, no cranking = thats when the wire is finally broken.

rebecca8 · Post by **rebecca8** » 25 Jun 2015, 17:29

Thanks abscate for responding. Sorry, I haven't gotten back to this forum as I've been tinkering with the car off and on for the last few weeks. I did discover that wire you mentioned which was severed, and even looked melted a little. Nice. So I went ahead and ordered a used but supposedly tested starter off ebay. Off course they sent one different than the photo. It supposedly came off a S60 '02. The seller assured this part would work on the 850. The starter spun, but did not catch. So I finally took it off, and replaced with new re-manufactured from parts store. This one now does not do anything at all (no click, no spin, nothing), and I'm back to square one. Can't figure out if I did something wrong, however, the post where you attach the battery supply cable is wobbly. I don't really know if this is unusual. I removed the nuts that were already on there when I bought it, in order to position the 3 wires/cables that need to go on that post. When I removed the last nut, the post started wobbling within the solenoid. I saw a video where someone was talking about GM solenoids that are made so you can remove that portion of the solenoid to replace the posts, so I wonder if this solenoid is like that, or it's simply broken. I did not man handle that post either, as I know it can be easily broken with too much force. In addition to that, my tire is flat, and I cannot get the lug nuts off as the tire iron is too big and slips right off. Anyone else have that problem with the 850? Needless to say, I'm feeling pretty defeated by this car after wasting the last 2 full days on it and getting no where.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 Jun 2015, 19:44

Typically you don't remove the bottom nut on the solenoid when you make the battery, alternator, and fan wire connections, just the top one. The connection inside of the solenoid may have broken in the process. I would take it back to the parts store and see if they will exchange it as DOA. Sometimes they will bench test it which is OK from your perspective since it will tell you if the starter is good or not.

...Lee

Post by **abscate** » 25 Jun 2015, 23:42

Could the powering down noise be SAS pump? One my cars has a similar noise that is emission equipment related.

Are you using an aftermarket tire iron or the Volvo one? You can often get a shop to loosen lugs for you with their impact wrench, then re tighten them with your wrench do you know you can get them off.

If you smile at them, it's free. Inflate your flat with a bicycle pump to get you to the garage. You can also get an electrical impact wrench and good impact socket for less than a tow, too.

rebecca8 · Post by **rebecca8** » 26 Jun 2015, 12:26

Thanks guys,
I guess I don't have another choice, but to remove it and take it back. Oh boy, I'm a pro at R/R an 850 starter by now. Just wish one of them would work. Do you know if a Bosch starter that came out of a 2002 S60 is supposed to work in an 850?
As for that noise, it very well could be the pump because it does only occur shortly after start up. Thanks, that one was bothering me for awhile. The tire iron was in the trunk when I bought the car, and I'd have to double check but I believe it said Volvo on it. My mom has a '94 850 too, and her tire iron does not do the job either. It's weird. I did buy a little air pump for the tire, but have not tried it yet. Will be getting back to the car in a few days and update. Thanks again, I appreciate it.