2001 V70 T5 ABS cycling at low speed and engine surging

[kbaer28]

I just picked up a V70 with a few issues I am trying to iron out.

The car had badly warped brakes and had the christmas tree of lights. Check engine, ABS, traction control, stop immediately brake issue on the display (or something like that).

I started with the known issue, warped brakes. Put on new pads and rotors. I ohmed out the front wheel speed sensors, both were the same, I think 389k ohms or something, can't remember. I used my cheap scanner and pulled the codes, P1550 and P0014. I cleared them and went for a 30 mile drive. Brakes are now smooth but at slow speeds, like under 10 or 15 mph, I can hear and feel the ABS running through some sort of checks, pulsing the brakes. Currently there are no ABS lights on but it consistently does the checks at slow speed unless I am on the gas or brakes. I can tell that someone has been inside of the ABS module because the seam is siliconed together. Not ruling that out but it has apparently been rebuilt at some time.

Any ideas?

I was told by the previous owner that the cvvt hub was replaced with a junkyard unit and that fixed a lot of running issues. But there is still the p0014 code that comes up after a few minutes of driving. I plan on checking the timing to rule that out. It does surge some at idle sometimes.

Any help would be appreciated.

[abscate]

You will to unbutcher that ABS unit or get a rebuilt one from MattyMoo...you might have to pay a core too if your unit has been opened.

[Matty Moo]

You have a p0014 because the CvVT wasn't set correctly when the PO messed with it. Throwing another part at it won't solve that problem if it wasn't set correctly.

ABS.... Who knows. A good chunk of the 01's have modules that will never fail. People crack them open because the usual info says to do so, but there are two related scenarios to that situation.

1. Most people absolutely do not know how to solder but will do it anyway and claim it was top notch. It usually looks the part.

2. Very few are pulling codes to troubleshoot. Being that even a 2001 is a 15 year old car as of today means that other components and wiring fail.

[kbaer28]

I believe I figured out the ABS issue. I reinspected the wheel speed sensors and on the right front I noticed the reluctor wheel was not centered in the hole. Checked the torque on the front half shaft and it was not torqued correctly. I tightened it and this put the reluctor wheel where it should be. Took it for a test drive and the ABS is functioning as it's supposed to be. Hopefully that was the problem.

I checked the timing, and everything is lined up. I am doing research now on how to correctly set the CVVT and will tackle that tomorrow. Any links to a step by step? I am looking at All Data but it is saying I need a special tool to put in place of the starter to lock in the crank. Is that necessary?

If, after adjusting the cvvt the problem still exists, is there any chance it is the cam position sensor?

Thanks for the help so far.

[abscate]

You need to get a new bolt for that driveshaft. The correct torque stretches the bolt and destroys it. It's very likely it will loosen up again. At the very least,put two punch marks in the bolt head and hub and check it for movement every drive for a few weeks.

The torque value is two stage

35 Nm
Then angle tighten 90 degrees. That's the part that stretches the bolt. You will need an 18 inch breaker bar to do Step2

[kbaer28]

Well I reset the cvvt following this guide:

Well, you'll need to go though the whole process of checking the timing...

The end goal is that all the notches should line up and the VVT unit (inner part of the cam pulley) will be turned fully clockwise to its limit position. Therefore the three small bolts on the pulley should be in their rightmost position. Thats it! I messed mine up at first when I rebuilt the top end of my T6. I corrected it two nights (100miles) ago with the belt still on, codes are now gone and it runs like a champ. I'm not a mechanic by trade so the info below is E&OE, at your own risk with no warranty implied.

Basically, consider it to be a three stage process:

Stage 1
Forget the VADIS proceedure for now and whatever you have tried so far

Stage 2
Have the crank locked in position on its mark. Drop a 6" 3/8 extenstion into the hole near the starter, turn motor counter clockwise by hand until it hits the stop.
Cams should locked in position, in line with seam in head.
Ensure all all notches are lined up on the cam pulleys with the timing belt cover.
Timing belt sould be on.
Inner bolt on cam pulley that fixes the unit onto the camshaft should be torqued down (Circa 88Ft Lbs, please verify).
The three bolts for the cam gear to VVT unit should be loose
VVT unit should be turned fully counter clockwise (bolts will be on the left of the holes in the toothed pulley when this is done).

If you cant achieve stage 2, ie the VVT unit will not move far enough counterclockwise for the three bolts to be at their leftmost limit, then the center bolt that attaches the unit to the cam needs to be loosened as their relative positions are incorrect.


Stage 3
Keep cams locked, pulleys at marks amd crank locked\at mark.
Fit the outer "cap" onto the VVT unit (T60 torx), no need to torque it yet.
Rotate the VVT unit clockwise using the cap with a T60 torx until it hits its limit.
Lock the three outer pulley bolts.
Torque the VVT cap (25 lb/ft I think, please verify).
You should now be in a position where all marks line up and the three pulley bolts on the VVT unit are on rightmost part of the holes in the toothed gear.

** Have a beer **

I drove it for about a half hour and no code reappeared! Runs great and idles awesome! It seems to have more valve train clatter but that might be because I am paying more attention to it?

About 30 minutes in, the low voltage display came on. Sure enough, it was flirting around 11.2 volts. Taking the battery and alternator out to get load tested this afternoon.

I torqued the driveshaft to the 35 nm plus 90 degrees originally, but I will order a new bolt. Didn't realize it was a stretch bolt.

[kbaer28]

Decided to order a voltage regulator with the seemingly high rate of failure. With it removed, I noticed what appears to be wear where the one brush contacts the shaft. It may be hard to see from the pictures.

Does this warrant alternator replacement?

[vtl]

Looks good. Brushes on old regulator were probably worn beyond limit. That's expected on 2001 car.

[vtl]

Check timing belt first. It can be hard to align marks if the last person, who touched it, did it the first time in life.

[abscate]

Well I reset the cvvt following this guide:

Well, you'll need to go though the whole process of checking the timing...

The end goal is that all the notches should line up and the VVT unit (inner part of the cam pulley) will be turned fully clockwise to its limit position. Therefore the three small bolts on the pulley should be in their rightmost position. Thats it! I messed mine up at first when I rebuilt the top end of my T6. I corrected it two nights (100miles) ago with the belt still on, codes are now gone and it runs like a champ. I'm not a mechanic by trade so the info below is E&OE, at your own risk with no warranty implied.

Basically, consider it to be a three stage process:

Stage 1
Forget the VADIS proceedure for now and whatever you have tried so far

Stage 2
Have the crank locked in position on its mark. Drop a 6" 3/8 extenstion into the hole near the starter, turn motor counter clockwise by hand until it hits the stop.
Cams should locked in position, in line with seam in head.
Ensure all all notches are lined up on the cam pulleys with the timing belt cover.
Timing belt sould be on.
Inner bolt on cam pulley that fixes the unit onto the camshaft should be torqued down (Circa 88Ft Lbs, please verify).
The three bolts for the cam gear to VVT unit should be loose
VVT unit should be turned fully counter clockwise (bolts will be on the left of the holes in the toothed pulley when this is done).

If you cant achieve stage 2, ie the VVT unit will not move far enough counterclockwise for the three bolts to be at their leftmost limit, then the center bolt that attaches the unit to the cam needs to be loosened as their relative positions are incorrect.


Stage 3
Keep cams locked, pulleys at marks amd crank locked\at mark.
Fit the outer "cap" onto the VVT unit (T60 torx), no need to torque it yet.
Rotate the VVT unit clockwise using the cap with a T60 torx until it hits its limit.
Lock the three outer pulley bolts.
Torque the VVT cap (25 lb/ft I think, please verify).
You should now be in a position where all marks line up and the three pulley bolts on the VVT unit are on rightmost part of the holes in the toothed gear.

** Have a beer **

I drove it for about a half hour and no code reappeared! Runs great and idles awesome! It seems to have more valve train clatter but that might be because I am paying more attention to it?

About 30 minutes in, the low voltage display came on. Sure enough, it was flirting around 11.2 volts. Taking the battery and alternator out to get load tested this afternoon.

I torqued the driveshaft to the 35 nm plus 90 degrees originally, but I will order a new bolt. Didn't realize it was a stretch bolt.

If you are a risk taker like me, punch mark them and see if it moves. It will cost you money if it breaks, but won't be dangerous unless it strands you in gang country.

Volvo does call for a new bolt on each use, of course.