1995 850 turbo fails to start after head gasket replacemen

[jthm77]

WHOOP WHOOP ..... it started and ran for like 10 minutes ,till i tryed to drive it . Then it died and wont restart. I will repeat the oil process when i get home ,i had some errands that needed to be done unfortunately wasnt able to drive the volvo to do them...

[jthm77]

So my question now is, what is going to change once its been running a while to prevent this from continuing? I dont understand WHY its doing it now just because i had it torn down.

[erikv11]

LMS should not have cropped up again, I agree that is strange. Also it sounds odd that it died, were you able to rev it up OK and let it return to idle, during the 10 minutes of run time? Does sound like something is not right, and maybe that is the root cause of the LMS. Check for vacuum leaks. Make sure it still has fuel pressure (i.e. check for odd coincidence now of bad fuel relay or similar). Plug wires all in correct order (or was that already covered in this thread?).

I think I would want to get it going again and take it for several trips around the block at least, maybe further if I was confident it would keep running. Driving the car places much more load on the engine than idling it, it will get much warmer and maybe return to normal from driving it.

[kahl]

as Erikv said about the fuel pump relay, could it be failing and intermittently operating correctly? It would explain many of your problems.

[jthm77]

The fuel pump relay is new also. It idled very well then died when i shifted to reverse. I will redo the oil and keep you posted. Again thank you profusely.i NEVER ,NEVER, NEVER would have considered this as the cure. With it starting and idleing i am comfortable that the timing and assembly is correct. So i ACTUALLY see some light in the darkness. I am going to try the pulling the injector harness before pulling all the plugs again. But if that doesnt do it i wont hesitate to oil it again. It actually started instantly this morning after oiling it.

[FLXC90]

Is it possible to push the car around to where you can idle out in low instead of reverse? Or even a slight hill to give advantage? Did the temp gauge come to operating temp while you ran it first time?
Sounds like things just need to get used to working together again (rings seating to cylinder walls.) Since it ran until you loaded it up, it is getting closer, may just need a couple more heating cycles to seal everything up, well done on the HG change!

[jthm77]

Ok. Newest installment. Got it started with oil 3 more times.
1st ran 15 min or so then put it in R and D and it stayed running , let it run a bit more then tried shutting it down, no restart.
2nd, Got it going again drove it around the block a couple of times then it died at a stop.
3rd time now. Running and ill drive it some more. Fingers crossed.
I am very confident because its running.... i will keep a positive outlook

[jthm77]

Ok,
3rd oil start... drove it extensively, put it in neutral at stop signs so as to not lose it again and have to get my jeep to tow it home. Ran like a champ, smoke stopped. Got home , tentatively shut it down .... no restart....
It sounds like it wants to but just wont kick...

[jthm77]

What is the oil doing that the engine itself doesnt seem to be able to do?

[erikv11]

Engine needs 4 things to run: fuel, air, spark, compression (you could argue timing but that is just to regulate the spark and compression; you could argue a whole bunch of things but those 4 are the basics). Adding oil will seal the gap between the rings and the cylinders, so that the engine has compression. Normally, there is a thin film of oil on the cylinder walls, the rings are well seated, and there is compression upon cranking.

Adding oil after LMS is supposed to be a 1- or maybe 2-time measure. Something is amiss here. Maybe too much fuel is getting in there, and washing the cylinders dry. Leaky injectors perhaps ? Your very first post mentions fuel injectors, what was done there? You can check that by pulling the fuel rail, pressurizing it (turn the key on), then set it on paper towels or similar. Zero fuel should leak out of the injectors. I am not coming up with many good ideas maybe someone else will.

If you shut off the engine, is it instantly unable to start or are you waiting a bit (like enough time for fuel to leak into the cylinders)? Does it seem to have normal pep i.e. normal compression when you drive it around? I wonder if the engine just has super bad ring gap, doesn't make sense though.