1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 23 Jun 2015, 11:41

5rivers wrote:I picked up some red hi-temp RTV silicone instant gasket at harbor freight. Is this acceptable to seal down the cam cover?

No.

You need an anaerobic sealer. The pink Volvo stuff is the best but you can get by with Permetex or Loctite versions. The Volvo stuff is very expensive.

...Lee

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 23 Jun 2015, 13:49

Ok! Will shop for Permetex or Loctite versions of the Volvo sealer. Thanks!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 23 Jun 2015, 13:55

A few pics:

I started to file off some of the corrosion.

Beginning to ready various parts (idler, tensioners, water pump, etc) for installation!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 23 Jun 2015, 13:59

The last pic is of the alignment of the crankshaft (see two tiny notches) with the oil pump (larger notch below and in middle of the two tiny notches).

Post by **erikv11** » 23 Jun 2015, 14:18

Crank looks great!

I think I would just replace that bolt, take care to not overtighten it, and call it a day. A Helicoil is an insert that is used to repair bad threads on the female side.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 23 Jun 2015, 17:33

Yes, I have a replacement bolt, thanks for your reply!

On the Permetex/Loctite gasket sealer, how many ounces are needed to seal on the camshaft cover? Will one 1.69 oz tube suffice or should I pick up two tubes?

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Jun 2015, 09:46

Presumably the oil pan did not come off on this top end job, but for reference the sealer is used for both the oil pan and the cam cover. A 1.69 ounce tube is enough for like 6 of those jobs. You only need a thin layer and most of it will be squeezed out when you cinch down (gently!) the cam cam cover.

Post by **abscate** » 24 Jun 2015, 10:25

erikv11 wrote:Presumably the oil pan did not come off on this top end job, but for reference the sealer is used for both the oil pan and the cam cover. A 1.69 ounce tube is enough for like 6 of those jobs. You only need a thin layer and most of it will be squeezed out when you cinch down (gently!) the cam cam cover.

So if you buy one tube you can buy two more Volvos....

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 24 Jun 2015, 14:17

Hi erikv11 and abscate! Thanks for info!!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 03 Jul 2015, 06:52

Back again!
I secured some anaerobic gasket product for the camshaft cover, and installed the water pump, TB tensioner, pulley, serpentine tensioner, and idler pulley. I did have some trouble installing the tensioner as the holes in the back timing belt cover would not line up with the bolt holes for the tensioner. I ended up taking off the water pump, and the pulleys again, and somehow was able to fit the cover perfectly over the bolt holes for the TB tensioner, then installed the tensioner finger tight so the cover would stay in place so I could re-install the water pump. Had to loosen the top bolt for the tensioner and move it out of the way so I could insert two water pump bolts and tighten those. Then moved the tensioner back in place and tightened the bolts to it. That seemed to work. The pulleys were then re-installed. Not sure what was keeping the cover from sitting exactly where it was supposed to be, but I suspect it was getting caught on one of the nubs on the oil pump.

So, now I have a few questions about re-installing and connecting some of the wiring:
There is a set of wires that connect between the starter and the alternator. Among this group of wires is a black (ground) wire, a connector to the oil sending unit, a short positive battery-type cable (connects the starter to the alternator), two small clips, and a connector to the thermostat temp sensor. Am not sure where the black ground wire attaches. The only place where it would seem to attach is to the bottom of the intake manifold stabilizer that has two holes; one for a bolt to attach to the engine next to a bolt to secure the starter to the motor, the other is a smaller hole. Is this where the black ground wire should be attached? Or should I attach it to the bolt that goes into the motor?

The other question has to do with the knock sensors. I have re-attached these, finger tight, but am not sure where the end of those wires clip into. From the pics I have seen on this site and others, it looks like the wiring goes down and under the starter. Some have grounds that attach to the motor, but mine has a male clip on the end of the two wires. There is only one female clip that does not have a mate and is attached to a larger grouping of wires located along the front cross frame. I suppose through the process of elimination, I could find the right connector, but I would rather get that out of the way before proceeding further. (I knew I should have taken pictures as I disassembled everything, but I figured I would remember....NOT!)

I will attach pics of these two conundrums shortly.

Appreciate any/all replies

1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!

Re: 1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!