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2000 S70 - Question about A/C compressor shim fix

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » A/C Compressor Shim Fix: Bread Clip
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erikv11
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Re: 2000 S70 - Question about A/C compressor shim fix

Post by erikv11 »

Zip ties. I've done three cars that way, never had one fail or fly out. And they stay in without any superglue so you can just cut them off to remove when/if you ever need to.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

Adler
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Post by Adler »

Just did this on my 98. Clutch gap was way over 1mm! I used copper spark plug indexing washers I had laying around, snipped them into C shapes and slid them under the plate. Now to wait for a hot day...
IMG_20150627_161146.jpg
IMG_20150627_161146.jpg (65.27 KiB) Viewed 2154 times

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RigsPGT
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Post by RigsPGT »

I did this on my 98 which is the same looking compressor as Adler's picture above without luck. Within minutes the shims flew underneath the car like BBs. I bent some thin galvanized sheets in half and now im thinking it would have been smarter to tie the 3 shims with safety wire from one to another to prevent them from falling or just simply use zip ties.
99 S70 T5, The Red Devil
Ported 19T and R manifold, 3" DP with Magnaflow race cat, 2.5" cat back, Precision FMIC, Rigs intake pipe, H&Rs, Bilsteins, 302's with Akebonos, Jewels, HIDs, egg crate grille, transmission cooler.

Adler
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Post by Adler »

Went to replace the air guide today so while it was out I could see that one of my sets of shims had disappeared. I made a new one and added safety wire to hold them all. I'll check again in a week and see if they've moved. AC has worked fine since I added the shims and I couldn't tell when that one came loose. The gap was still close to even all the way around.
IMG_20150705_124820.jpg
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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

For this application zip ties never move around, never fall out, are easy to put in ...
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

geokilla
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Year and Model: S70, 2000
Location: Toronto, Canada

Post by geokilla »

I got an oil change done today and asked the mechanic to take a look at the fix. Him and a colleague said they can't get access to the AC clutch because it is covered by metal (forgot the proper names) to the left and bottom of the AC compressor. Basically the only way to do it is to drop the compressor down. Is there any other way to zip tie the AC clutch? Or are you guys all dropping the compressor?

I showed the mechanic this post.
2000 Volvo S70 SE; First Owner; 321km; Retired

2012 Volvo S60 T5 Level II; Gone

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Ouch.

On a late P80 car you can access the compressor clutch about 1/3 at a time. EZ PZ
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dosbricks
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Post by dosbricks »

If you can remove two 10mm bolts and drop the plastic air guide (cover) under the front of the car, the clutch can be accessed as abscate indicated, by rotating it 1/3 at a time to face the side you are working on toward the bottom. It's not nearly the kind of tussle that's going on in your avatar :wink:

They didn't want to do it. First of all, they are leery of any "non standard fix" because they fear being named as the one responsible for it and appearing non-professional. Plus almost all shops are on computer now and they don't know how to bill for anything not assigned the designated hours or fractions thereof by alldata. They would be happy to charge you $350 for a rebuilt compressor though.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter

geokilla
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Year and Model: S70, 2000
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Post by geokilla »

dosbricks wrote:If you can remove two 10mm bolts and drop the plastic air guide (cover) under the front of the car, the clutch can be accessed as abscate indicated, by rotating it 1/3 at a time to face the side you are working on toward the bottom. It's not nearly the kind of tussle that's going on in your avatar :wink:

They didn't want to do it. First of all, they are leery of any "non standard fix" because they fear being named as the one responsible for it and appearing non-professional. Plus almost all shops are on computer now and they don't know how to bill for anything not assigned the designated hours or fractions thereof by alldata. They would be happy to charge you $350 for a rebuilt compressor though.
Actually this shop would be more than happy to bill me just labour work. They even said if they could, they'd do it. They're the kind of shop that a lot of Toyota and Lexus owners go to because the owners made a name for themselves for their honesty. I'll show them what you posted next time and hope for the best lol.
2000 Volvo S70 SE; First Owner; 321km; Retired

2012 Volvo S60 T5 Level II; Gone

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dosbricks
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Post by dosbricks »

Well, as professionals, if they don't know they can drop the air guide and rotate the compressor, then they don't know beans about Volvo cars.

The gist of what is being implied in this thread is that if you have 20 spare minutes and a few small zip ties, then you are not going to find a DIY repair much easier than this one. Much easier than doing an oil change.
'98 S70, 230k, purchased new in '98
'96 855 GLT, 163k, purchased lightly used in '99
Onceuponatime RIP '69 Shelby GT500 w/7.0 liter

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