Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[jlferreira]

Precopster, I checked the voltage between pins 1 & 3 and I got 1.3V. I even checked the power supply from the ETM cable (the one side from battery) and I have 12V.
I also did the test checking for the click/6 sec whine that Xemodex suggests, but the throttle body just clicked, no 6 sec whine and any movement from the plate (looking from the air intake side).
I'm going to open the throttle body and take the TPS out to see if the shaft could be touching the sensor cap.
Is there anything else that I should take a look?
Thank you one more time for helping me with this!

[precopster]

If you push the spring loaded air flap in and back out it should feel free. If you feel resistance it will be because of the other side of the ETM which contains the large magnet and armature.

Let me know if you find resistance in the flap and I can tell or show you how to deal with the large magnet.

[jlferreira]

Yesterday before I opened it I checked the flap and it wasn't moving even a degree!
With this in mind I already imagined what was my problem, but as soon as I opened the sacer TPS I confirmed it.
As one more learning for life (first car that I'm really into learning and solving issues), the epoxy got into the sensor through a small hole in which the output cable for the old sensor goes to. So even the small amount of epoxy that got inside was able to complete seal the sensor to the body. After cleaned it up and doing all the steps again the ETM worked perfectly. I'll still keep an eye on it and I hope that I won't have to concern with my ETM again. It's definitely a silly mistake but at least I won't have to throw more money on this issue.
Precopster, I appreciate all the attention and help that you provided me. I'll continue learning about this car and maybe one day be able to help others too.

[precopster]

Epoxy does awful things to ETMs. It's way too runny to know where it will end up. I get them from all over Australia after botched DIY mechanic attempts to fit contactless. One of them had epoxy run behind the Sacer magnet causing me to remove the built in throttle stops to access the area.

I now use a clear non acetic Selleys product which is easy to remove in case I need to go back in.

[mrtiger]

I just installed a Sacer Throttle position sensor on my 99 XC70. Forgot to check the voltage between pin 1 and 3 before taking the old TPS off. Now with the new TPS installed there is no voltage reading between pin 1 and 3.

Am I possibly doing something wrong when testing the voltage?

What would cause the voltage reading to be 0?

[precopster]

It may have had no voltage prior to the Sacer install. Did you read codes and if so were any of them P0120 or P0121 ? Even if they were these codes may mean no output from the board.

Try between pin 2 and pin 4 on the opposite side. Is the same thing occurrin g?

The best way to know if the throttle is rebuildable is to view throttle position 1 & 2 output in Vida. If one or both of the output throttle angles is 108 degrees you should use the ETM as a paperweight.

[jgrenier]

Guys, I'm not a mechanical person, but I'm starting to also have some issue with my throttle on my S60 2001 none turbo. So I found on ebay a throttle position sensor. The person posting it, refer me to this forum on how to repair my etm. The thing is, this kit (complete according to the guy) include only 1 sensor. So my question is; how do you fix an etm with 2 sensors to a 1 sensor (if I understood properly)?
it is the contactless position sensor (tps). Also do I need to reprogram my ETM? Where could I get the software, and what do I need to reprogram it?
Or maybe you would recommend me more to just get a new one (don't really have the money for it). If so, how much could I get one, and where could I get it. I live in Canada, but willing to get from the USA and shipped to me.
If I can replace it, could you provide me with a step by step. Again I'm new to this, but would love to learn and repair my car myself.
Where do you guys get most of your parts for your Volvo, other then the dealer?

[precopster]

Very simple. One sensor has two outputs. The black wire goes across the ETM to the other side and connects to where the input for the second sensor goes directly to the ETM circuit board.

There are plenty of pictures on this thread showing where the black lead connects.

DO NOT PULL THE SECOND SENSOR OFF THE ETM.

Look on page 2 or 3 of this thread for photos of the black lead's location.

Also there's a diagram on this thread showing where to measure for voltage.

VERY IMPORTANT.
Many ETM magnets are hitting the armature and causing shorting because the magnet has an aluminium cover which houses loose magnetic filings.
Removal of the cover and the filings solves the problem however it should be done by somebody who is competent with use of a Dremel and a soldering iron.

To test for fouling of magnet to armature just operate the throttle flap by hand over it's full travel.

[packetfire]

If one is getting the stumble/surge symptoms that indicate the need for an ETM cleaning, does it make sense to also unconditionally replace the wiper-contact TPS with the non-contact Sacer unit at the same time? I have read in this thread about "white sticker" (bad) units and "yellow sticker" (good) units, but I am not sure that this is a reliable indicator of the sturdiness of the resistive strip.

Am I correct that the VIDA test will authoritatively tell me if I have a problem with the wiper-contact TPS?

I have a 2001 v70 2.4T turbo wagon, so I have a more complex R&R than the non-turbos, but from what I read here, the labor to R&R and clean the ETM is much less than the labor to R&R and retrofit the ETM with the non-contact sensor. I ordered a Sacer sensor, as I am sure I will need it eventually, but either the magnet is already in the ETM, or my Sacer kit is incomplete, lacking a magnet.

[precopster]

The magnet is made by Sacer and should be with the sensor. The magnet is a paired device calibrated to each Sacer sensor. Return it to the seller for a refund or exchange.

The ETM test is a definitive way of testing the contact strips and nothing more.

White or yellow label makes no difference to me they all eventually fail and some yellow labels fail early in as little as 3 years, though the contact strips are not the issue.

Where in the car is a complex power supply and logic board directly connected to a 225degF heat source? Only Magnetti Marelli have done it this way.

Bosch throttle unit has sensors and motor; that's all. All logic is done at engine ECU on Bosch throttle.