1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!

Post by **songzunhuang** » 25 Jul 2015, 18:49

RussB wrote:I am stunned that you didn't install a new head head gasket.

I know I would have the head milled flat

I second that. I've learned to never mess with old gaskets.

Post by **abscate** » 25 Jul 2015, 19:09

She put a new head gasket on, but know has to pull the head again to fix the leak.

This is the second new head gasket

Post by **erikv11** » 26 Jul 2015, 07:39

5rivers wrote:Hi Erik,
I have two pieces of wood that I use to wrap sandpaper around, one the length of the block, the other the width. Both have been milled. I have used a carpenters square ...

You know more about finding the tolerances than I do, I'm not seeing mistakes here in technique. Hopefully it was just that low spot.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 26 Jul 2015, 10:33

That is what I am hoping. I have a few days to correct it plus any others I come across before the new head gasket comes in. Thanks for all your contributions and support! I'll report back in a few days!

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 23 Aug 2015, 07:40

Hi everyone!
Been away to visit family, and traveled to a wedding in Maine; now just finishing up replacement of brake lines and fuel lines on our '96 Honda Accord. Fuel lines to the gas tank rusted off!! Then noticed the brake lines were soaked in spots - evidence of tubing disintegration, I think. Anyway those had to come off, actually they came off in sections - one rusted part to another! Rust everywhere hindered progress...might be time to let this car go...but it runs so well (when its running!):)

Anyway, in another few days, I will resume work on my Volvo V70. Been doing some sanding while waiting for rust penetrant to work on Honda. Hope all is well with those of you following my progress!

Post by **dosbricks** » 23 Aug 2015, 10:17

Just a note:
Obviously, leveling the head surface side to side and along it's entire length does not ensure it's flat. If there is even the slightest twist in the head it won't show up by length and side leveling. Diagonal checking requires a straight edge with extreme accuracy because even the least amount of error will appear to be doubled. We're talking precision on the order of a Starrett brand = $$.

For setting up power planer or joiner blades, I use a piece of 1/4" plate glass, but I doubt that would have the accuracy needed for a cylinder head.

Bottom line: IMHO, this kind of work is better left to machine shops which are equipped to do it.

Post by **abscate** » 23 Aug 2015, 11:30

5rivers wrote:Hi everyone!
Been away to visit family, and traveled to a wedding in Maine; now just finishing up replacement of brake lines and fuel lines on our '96 Honda Accord. Fuel lines to the gas tank rusted off!! Then noticed the brake lines were soaked in spots - evidence of tubing disintegration, I think. Anyway those had to come off, actually they came off in sections - one rusted part to another! Rust everywhere hindered progress...might be time to let this car go...but it runs so well (when its running!):)

Anyway, in another few days, I will resume work on my Volvo V70. Been doing some sanding while waiting for rust penetrant to work on Honda. Hope all is well with those of you following my progress!

Good to hear back, we were worrying about you. You picked a great month to drive in Maine though

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 01 May 2016, 05:13

Greetings all; I am back!!!
This past week I have been reassembling parts to my V70 and so far have installed the cylinder head with a new head gasket, the camshafts, exhaust manifold and heat shield, the starter, and camshaft cover. Am struggling now with the timing belt. I have not installed the tensioner just yet, but the belt seems to have much more slack than what I remember it having. Have the grooves on the camshafts lined up properly and timing marks set with the cover on. Don't know if I have routed the belt incorrectly or not, but did follow the diagram on the sticker on the car. Any suggestions?

Post by **abscate** » 01 May 2016, 05:22

Hello again. From what I recall its pretty slack until you pull the tensioner pin, then you turn the crank pulley over and make sure everything is lined up. If not, move the cams the tooth or two needed.

My 1999 is different with preload so let the rest of the 1998 MVS wake up and guide you here.

5rivers · Post by **5rivers** » 01 May 2016, 05:51

Hi abscate! Thanks for your reply!! After looking and reading a few other posts, it looks like the tensioner needs to be installed and the pin removed and adjustments made as you recommend. Thanks, again!

1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!

Re: 1998 V70 Timing belt, cylinder head work 330k miles!