2006 V70 2.5T. Nearing 120,000 mark

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 26 Jul 2015, 14:49

I am seeing in the near future a timing belt change. Have looked on here for help. Anyone have a thread to point me to? Would it be best to do water pump at same time?
Thanks for any thoughts
Shane

Post by **chrism** » 26 Jul 2015, 21:36

Personally, on the first T-belt replacement, I would check the water pump for bearing play (and leakage of course) once I had the belt off. If it still feels snug I'd blow off the replacement until the next T-belt change. But that's just me and others may see it differently.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 27 Jul 2015, 07:21

Thanks for the link. Looks a lot like changing a '98 TB on my old V70.
Does the crank shaft pulley need to come off for sure, or can it be snaked around like on the '98. Don't know if my little air compressor will pop it loose. Will probably do water pump, while I am in there and not need of worry for another 120,000 miles.
Best place for parts? Euro?
Shane

Post by **chrism** » 27 Jul 2015, 13:46

You can snake the belt under the crank sprocket if you remove the little plastic shield from the under side. Two 10mm bolts I believe.

As I recall FCP Euro sells a "kit" (belt, tensioner, water pump, idler pulley). It seems they don't discount their kits much compared to individual pieces. Try Partsgeek also. I'm starting to like them for their competitive prices and quick delivery. You'll probably want a new accessory serp belt also. Check the condition of that tensioner's bearing also.

Post by **GBS** » 28 Jul 2015, 12:57

I've done this while I replaced the front cam seals, it's not a big job but did have a few important steps, most of which are covered in the video. One thing I noticed he didn't do was turning the belt another 90degree after aligning before taking off the belt. Maybe that was only for me doing seals but I seem to have read that they are spring loaded and this takes the tension off so they fall back in original position. I had VVT on both intake and exhaust, the video only on intake.... Maybe someone can comment on which is correct.

I tried to get the pulley off the crank shaft but was unsuccessful, that big bolt was stuck. It's not needed though so just take a small rubber cover underneath the crank pulley off and it slides out, I'd do it that way again for sure.

Its a fun job but pay attention and ask questions before rather than after, I think the 90 degree then pull back to timing is important but hopefully someone else can comment too, I've done this once. I'd replace water pump, idler and tensioner while in there, water pump means draining the radiator but that's about it. Also have you replaced serpentine belt and tensioner? if not it this might also be a good time for that....

Post by **chrism** » 28 Jul 2015, 14:41

"... I think the 90 degree then pull back to timing is important but hopefully someone else can comment too..."

If you don't remove the cam sprockets from the cam shafts then all of that VVT turning 90 deg stuff can be ignored. Put the cams and crank on their marks before removing the old belt and make sure all three are still on their marks after the new belt is installed (and make sure they all come back up on their marks each time you hand-crank the crankshaft two revs) and you'll be fine.

It's when you separate the sprockets from the cam shafts that you lose the proper alignment relationship and thus have to go through a more involved alignment procedure.

Post by **GBS** » 28 Jul 2015, 15:03

Awesome, thanks for clarifying that.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 30 Jul 2015, 08:49

Thanks to everyone for the information. I watched the video and will probably watch again before doing. Will do serp and tensioner and all other things that may go bump down the road.
Great I can leave crank sprocket on, and I will check Partsgeek to see what they offer.
Shane

Post by **abscate** » 31 Jul 2015, 04:57

If you have been changing coolant every two years leave that OEM water pump in. They last a long time. At 15000 miles per year, replace it in 5-7 years.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 31 Jul 2015, 06:24

abscate wrote:If you have been changing coolant every two years leave that OEM water pump in. They last a long time. At 15000 miles per year, replace it in 5-7 years.

Well I sort of changed the coolant . Up until this year, the radiator had a small leak and so I added coolant every 500 miles or so. It started leaking more, so this year I installed a new one.Now I need to remember to change the coolant every two years.