1994 850 Turbo Running rough and threw a lot of codes

GDiode · Post by **GDiode** » 10 Aug 2015, 22:39

I used a stethoscope to check if the injector on 3 was working by listening for the clicking. 3 sounded like all the others. I already had the PCV kit for it so this weekend I'm going to tear into it and hope that the intake mani gasket is torn at cylinder 3. I guess I'll borrow a compression checker at the auto parts store also.

Post by **erikv11** » 10 Aug 2015, 22:47

So you have examined the injector electrical, nice work. An injector ticking is not the same as an injector dispensing fuel though, e.g, it could be clogged, swapping them around will test that.

I would just check the compression before tearing into the PCV. If compression in #3 is zero or very low, you may want to contemplate your options.

GDiode · Post by **GDiode** » 15 Aug 2015, 17:34

Okay. Bad news. Zero compression in the number 3 cylinder. Dry test compression #1-165, #2-159, #3-0, #4-145, #5-144. So I noticed on a previous post someone mentioned that they pulled there head and took it to a machine shop to have a valve job done on it for $225. Does anyone know if this is still about the right amount? I know there will be regional differences. I'm in southern Oregon.
Also, I have a parts car that is a year newer, same 850 Turbo. I know I will be rolling the dice as to what type of compression it has (I've taken to my things off it already to turn it over and check the compression). We need to get this thing going before my daughter goes to school at George Fox in 2 weeks. Or else she will take my wife's car and I will have an unhappy wife, who is already mad at me because I chose to by this car.
I would only need a new head and valve gasket, right? Or just a head gasket if I can remove the head with the valve cover on it.
Sorry if this sounds stupid, I just muddle my way through things.
Thanks everyone, Shannon

GDiode · Post by **GDiode** » 15 Aug 2015, 18:04

At this point would doing a wet compression test help?

Post by **abscate** » 15 Aug 2015, 18:45

Quick wet compression to rule out rings is smart.

Getting it back on the road in two weeks is tough, your shop will need that much time if they are any good ( because they will have backlog of work)

GDiode · Post by **GDiode** » 15 Aug 2015, 20:34

What if just I put the head from my parts car on without sending it to the shop? I know it's a gamble and I would only be out my time. It worked great before I tore it. The AC compressor seized and the previous owner had a hobby mechanic try to bypass the compressor with the serpentine belt and it was just to slack.

Post by **RussB** » 15 Aug 2015, 20:40

If I was giving my kid a car to take to college I would make sure it was in top shape

GDiode · Post by **GDiode** » 15 Aug 2015, 20:49

I want to but I'm running out of time and money. I guess she will be going with my wife's Mazda 5 and we'll have to bring her car up to Portland when its done.

Post by **abscate** » 16 Aug 2015, 05:58

Take the time and do it right. Then you get a car that runs for 4 years.

Abby will take my T5 to college this fall, 99'miles from home. It's great that basic AAA covers 100 mile tows

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Aug 2015, 06:00

GDiode wrote:What if just I put the head from my parts car on without sending it to the shop? I know it's a gamble and I would only be out my time. It worked great before I tore it.

It is worth a shot so long as the parts car is a turbo. I would get a good straight edge and check it for true before I installed it but if it is flat it should work fine. The only difference in the head between a turbo and a N/A are the exhaust valves. The valves are the same size but the turbo has sodium filled exhaust valves to try to keep them from burning.

Replacing a head is a decent sized job and the ancillary costs are not insignificant so I always try to do it as right as I can and send the head out to the machine shop but that is just the way I'm wired. You may not get another 200k out of it but it should work.

...Lee