01 v70 xc Timing belt and cam seals replacement. big leak

jerseykat1 · Post by **jerseykat1** » 25 Aug 2015, 22:45

im sure this has been asked a million times. But here goes.. My exhaust cam seal is spewing oil all over the place (seems to only do this while driving not at idle or when revving at idle) so i want to take it apart (well i am taking it apart) and replace the seals. one thing i noticed is that the intake cam gear which is supposed to be fixed and keyed to the camshafts is actually slotted where the bolts go through and when i installed my DIY cam locking tool in the back of the head my timing marks on the intake cam gear does not line up but its off by about a tooth which is exactly the amount of movement available in the slotted bolt holes used to lock the cam gear to the camshaft. Is this normal? technically it doesn't matter where the mark is as long as the cams are locked in the proper position, correct?

now for the exhaust cam gear, i did see a youtube video on it and it looks like the bolts in the slots should be at the far clockwise position (up against the end of the slots) when setting up timing?? well this is not the case with my car the bolts are just a little bit off center toward the clockwise position. So im guessing that my timing is off? i do have a rough idle (chalked it up to the ETM) at times and unsteady idle. any advise on this would be great!

the timing mark for the crank is not appearant to me just yet, mainly because i didnt take the crank pulley off yet. But if anyone could provide me with an illustration of the marks for the crank pulley i would greatly appreciate it.

one last thing about the oil leak i have. Is it common for 2.4t volvos to only leak oil from the cam seal while driving. i spent a lot of time in park with the upper belt cover off at 3k rpm trying to pinpoint the leak and it just wouldn't happen. But as soon as i drive it around the block about half a mile, i have oil all over the belt and just everywhere.

jerseykat1 · Post by **jerseykat1** » 26 Aug 2015, 04:16

Forgot to ask. The "proper" cam locking tool only locks the cams with the slots on the same plane? Am I correct. so basically a straight edge piece of steel would do the same task if the cams protruded out past the cylinder head? Just want to make sure my DIY tool is doing the same job as the "proper" tool.

jerseykat1 · Post by **jerseykat1** » 27 Aug 2015, 21:13

Any one?

Post by **GBS** » 28 Aug 2015, 10:54

Hey Jersey, I just did this on our 03 so I'm somewhat familiar with it. I got the locking tool from IPD, to me that's a good investment and you're still ahead financially over taking it to a shop, of course in fun you're already WAY ahead

So if I remember right those slots on the rear of the cams are not completely horizontal, they are slightly off set and they are slightly offset on the tool. Sure they can be turned and aligned there but then the timing will be off on the front, which I think you'll want aligned as you're taking the cam gears off that has to be realigned... Again I'm sure someone who knows this stuff can get all this together no problem but except for a giant torx this takes no other tools than the lock so I'd recommend going with that.

I had a hard time seing the marks on the crank too, when belt is off its WAY easier... I never took the crank pulley or aux belt pulley off as the belt can be taken off by removing a small plastic cover under the crank and slid out, far easier as my crank bolt was completely seized (at least for my tools).

Mine had a reasonable leak from the front cam seals, not big but it made that side of the engine wet and the bottom pan would constantly have a bit of oil in it. After replacing I've had no leaks.

Ok regarding tools, there is one tool I had to make, the press to get the seal back in. I got the end cap for a PVC pipe that fit the seal and drilled a hole for the cam bolt so I could us it to press the seal in. there are a few instructions on how far to press the seal and its important that its both straight and in the right location. Also I did both seals, water pump, idler and belt at the same time, my car had 180k on it and thought I might as well.

Hope that helps, I know its a bit all over but take your time with this and get the lock tool, it's worth it.

Cheers!

Post by **abscate** » 28 Aug 2015, 14:25

Most important - figure out why your cam seal is leaking. Check your crankcase for pressure with the glove test - if you fix the seal you can blow your RMS - synonymous with blowing 1000 USD....

Post by **GBS** » 28 Aug 2015, 14:31

Excellent point, my PCV system was clogged and I was hoping that just fixing the PCV would stop the leak from cam, it didn't, looking back I definitely should have done both at the same time.

Post by **oragex** » 29 Aug 2015, 12:03

you can feel the mark by touch, it's a small bump S60 timing belt marks the cam pulleys marks do align with the upper cover but when the belt is removed the the exhaust pulley moves a tooth clockwise I believe (and goes back to the timing when the belt is put back on)

perhaps as others mentioned before removing the belt it's good to check the pcv with a glove

jerseykat1 · Post by **jerseykat1** » 01 Sep 2015, 13:51

Replaced pcv system Friday (it was partially blocked), cam seal was leaking because the previous mechanic (If you want to call him that) put it in wrong and ripped the side of the seal, instead of changing it he put silicon on it on hopes that it wouldn't leak.. I ordered the cam locking tool, I should have it tomorrow.

xydki · Post by **xydki** » 22 Feb 2020, 04:36

hello. i'm adding to this 5 yr old thread because i've recently fixed this failure for next to nothing. i blew the seal out and [once i got the problem, 2-3 days later] merely pushed the protruding seal back in [through the timing belt pulley holes] and used 'blue devil stop oil leak' sealer(?) to get it to expand in its place. [i actually 'painted' the sealer onto the exposed side of the seal, after i'd pushed it in, -not in the directions!] i used a stubby screwdriver to get into tight space and carefully push cam seal back in, going from one side of seal to the other. when i was done it seemed to have 'seated'. i then broke off a very small paint brush to make it 'stubby' too, and tried to get as much 'sealant'(?) on there as possible. then i added the 'blue devil' [other sealing formulas may well work just as well] to the engine oil as per instructions. i idled the engine for at least two hours before gingerly driving it home two blocks, and idled it and 'babied' it for at least a week. [the cam seal blew out after 'spirited driving, and i lost 3 quarts in 10 miles before discovering it when i parked at home.] this repair has now 'held' for 2 months of city driving and one 150+ mi. highway trip, with some hi revs... if i had had to do this 'right', i'd have junked this 2000 s70.

xydki · Post by **xydki** » 22 Feb 2020, 04:45

just folllowing up on 'blue devil' cam seal fix. i should say that, as said in thread, you need to check for pcv pressure building issues caused by pcv failure. i was worried after fixing this but have passed the famous 'glove test' okay. i will re-do it more thoroughly and even seek some sort of a pressure gauge to use, but it is, i think, entirely possible for very old seals to just 'shrink' after so long. this car has 260,000 miles on it, btw, a gift from my cousin. also, i'd changed the timing belt a year before. i just sprayed 'oil bath' off of timing belt with brake clnr