DIY: 98 V70 Brake Hydraulic Overhaul (Hoses, Seals, Parking)

[abscate]

We will make fun of you on this Board for wearing braids, but from an operation standpoint you are good

[cn90]

For those who need caliper pistons.

- OEM ATE 38-mm Rear Piston is hard to find. Some UK ebay sellers may carry it.
Or you can salvage a piston from from a used caliper from local junk yard etc.

- I just found out Centric makes caliper pistons (check their website) for our cars.

- Seal/Boot: ATE is the best (about $25-$30), but I guess you can use Centric (? made in USA, to be verified) or Carlson rebuild kit (made in China, I have it in my hands lol) too.
Some people say "why not swap Rear calipers using rebuilt calipers from local parts store?" Well, in many cases, the rear caliper is seized into the metal line and virtually impossible to remove w/o cutting the metal lines. In that situation, it is better to rebuild the caliper "in-situ" (see 1st page of this thread) using new seal/boot and new/used pistons.

So:

- REAR Piston (qty = 2/caliper) CENTRIC Part # 14638034.

- FRONT Piston (qty = 1/caliper) CENTRIC Part # 14657004.

[troutman]

I had a "seized bolt" on the caliper and rear brake line on a 1998 V70 that I recently bought and fixed up. The caliper was rusted solid and did not move, and I needed to replace it with a remanufactured one.

I used a dremel tool and cut-off wheel to carefully cut the brake line just above the nut. With the caliper off the car and in a vise, I was able to get the nut out of the caliper using a box end wrench and PB blaster. I cleaned up the nut and removed the remains of the brake line from inside it, and then fit it back onto the brake line on the car, and used a flare tool to re-flare the end of the line. There was enough extra "slack" in the hard brake line for this to work with a little bit of re-working the line by hand, as I only cut off about 1/2" in total.

[xHeart]

I had a "seized bolt" on the caliper and rear brake line on a 1998 V70 that I recently bought and fixed up. The caliper was rusted solid and did not move, and I needed to replace it with a remanufactured one.

I used a dremel tool and cut-off wheel to carefully cut the brake line just above the nut. With the caliper off the car and in a vise, I was able to get the nut out of the caliper using a box end wrench and PB blaster. I cleaned up the nut and removed the remains of the brake line from inside it, and then fit it back onto the brake line on the car, and used a flare tool to re-flare the end of the line. There was enough extra "slack" in the hard brake line for this to work with a little bit of re-working the line by hand, as I only cut off about 1/2" in total.

This is insightful troutman.
I have imagined your route during transverse arm refurb last month.
But backed out for time constraints.
Good to know that the hard brake line can take some trimming.

[paredown]

Discovered by accident that the passenger rear caliper is not engaging properly--no even scoring on the outside of the disk as viewed through the wheel--which probably explains why the brakes have seemed a bit dodgy since I started into this car.

So it is time to do the job right, since the front brake lines looked a bit cracked when I was working on the struts (and I did not want to open another can of worms and replace them). So I need to replace the fluid, all the brake lines and deal with a frozen caliper.

So a couple of questions--is there some reason why the passenger rear seems to be the one that people are having trouble with?

What specifically has been the trouble encountered while trying to remove a rear caliper and having to rebuild in situ?

[Redneck]

I replaced all my brake lines on 1996 Volvo 850 except the rear for passenger side that is very hard to get to because it is in the middle rear of the car. Do you have any tips/pictures how to access that hose? I have Autozone ramps that are about 10in high, but I am not sure if that is high enough to raise the back and get underneath and access that hose. I'm sure it is not easy to get it off, so the access space needs to be pretty good to maneuver with the wrenches. I don't want to attempt it unless, I know that I will be able to complete the work.

[cn90]

For the rear hose sitting on top of the delta link, I gave up and mine is still stock, this is the only hose i have not changed.

Options:

1. Wait until you need to drop the delta link to replace ball joints etc., then it is easy at that time.
Delta Link DIY has some photos:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=65148

2. Undo the Y-connector on Left Rear area. Then unbolt the Right Rear caliper and remove everything as a complete assembly. See the link below from the UK forum, there are some nice photos:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=68111

[Redneck]

Hi cn90. Thank you for your reply.

I wonder what the life expectancy of these ball joints is. That may be something to do as preventive work. I have just looked at the pictures of this job and it looks like a terrible work. Maybe one day when something fails there.

Option 2 looks good. That is probably how they do it at dealerships.

[cn90]

The FRONT 2 hoses last about 80K to 100K because they bend up and down all the time, also right and left when the car turns the corner.

In contrast, the REAR 2 hoses do not bend much, this is why they last much longer. I sprayed some PBBlaster at the junction once a year, just in case I have to replace it later.

[dckettle]

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I wanted to add my thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I was able to replace three of four brake hoses on my '98 V70R with the exception of the right rear. Over two days, I heated the front two brake hoses with a propane torch (where cn90 recommended!) and cooled them with PB Blaster. The flare wrenches would not break the connection loose. I then clamped the Irwin 4US on there and was able to break both of the fronts free! The car is originally from NE Ohio, so I was thrilled to get these loose. Even more, the tool did not mangle the nut. I was able to use the 11mm flare wrench to loosen the nuts the rest of the way and torque the nut down on the new hoses. That tool was a lifesaver for me. I could probably get the right rear replaced after doing the fronts, but it is the only line with no cracks and I will leave it for now.

I spent a good amount of time researching part numbers for my '98 V70R with 280mm front brakes and rear Girling calipers with one piston and two bleed valves. Here are some of the part numbers for my particular vehicle:

Rear Brake Hose x 2 - #9209896 (RM European)
Front Brake Hose x 2 - #3546813 (RM European)
Parking Shoe Return Spring x 2 - #3546028 (Tasca)
Parking Shoe Return Spring x 2 - #9173601 (Tasca)
Centric Front Right Caliper - 141.39037 (Rock Auto)
Centric Front Left Caliper - 141.39038 (Rock Auto)
Centric Rear Calipers x 2 - 141.39519 (Rock Auto)

I ordered parking shoes #31262622, but half the shoes did not fit. They did not have the correct mounting point for the adjuster link built in. Therefore, I reused the old ones. I am not sure if I ordered the wrong ones or was shipped the incorrect shoes, as they look identical to #31262626.