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Sizing my First Floor Jack for 850 Wagon...

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate  
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Re: Sizing my First Floor Jack for 850 Wagon...

Post by abscate »

obayha wrote:
plumsmooth wrote:Does anyone use Cinder Blocks for safety back-up?
The guy across the street did, but doesn't any more.
Do it proper or don't do it at all.
Shane
Nice, Shane.

Cinder blocks are especially bad as 'backup' since they don't shock load well - thats when they crumble.

And to answer the pundits who say "Cinder blocks hold up your house, so they can hold up your car" ....they hold up your house because they are bonded together to form a wall - where the loads are distributed on all the blocks monolithically. A wall also isn't subject to weather, impact damage from being dropped, etc.

3000 pound rated Al low profile jack from HF....90 bucks less a 20 % coupon every day..
Two piece handle so it can be transported easily
Raise and lower and valve control all from the jack handle
It even has a foam rubber bump to stop from scratching the side of the car - you don't even need to use a pool noodle for this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 62160.html
Empty Nester
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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

For those of you keeping track at home, that's the same jack tryingbe posted.

I am surprised, do you guys really routinely lift just one corner of the car when you are working in the garage? I essentially never do, I honestly cannot recall ever doing that with my floor jack. I have no interest in working around a car that is tilted askew.

To me that's the beauty (the whole point?) of the floor jack: chock the wheels, lift from the center, put the raised end of the car on two symmetrically placed jack stands, use backup supports (the floor jack, wheels, etc). Then you are set to go to work, almost no matter what you end up needing to do. The car is safe like that for days if need be. I use the same routine every time I lift the car. Lift point is either the center of the subframe or a board under the rear tow loop and spare tire pan, I never use any other lift points. It is fast and easy, safe, and tried and true.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

Im almost always doing either back or front end work, so I lift at each corner and put a jack stand underneath. Unless Im doing e-brake work, I don't need both wheels up so I usually do one side at a time.

Im usually in my driveway, so thats also one less jack stand to carry out, too. My garage has been invaded by a 1954 Beetle project.

The 3000 pound HF jack will easily lift the entire side of my V70 though.
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Post by oragex »

I also work with a Michelin 2 Ton floor lift and two 2 Ton jack stands. An important thing with the lift is to have a slow release valve - so that I can control the lift height when lowering it.

http://img1.weiku.com/c/019/833/Mechani ... 3362_5.jpg

I never set the handbrake when jacking the car. Do you guys do the same?

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abscate  
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Post by abscate »

I set the handbrake and block the opposite corner wheel on both sides with wedged blocks.

You want as many redundancies as you can get when lifting a car as a weekend mechanic.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Yep,

I life only one corner all the time in many many vehicles for the last 30 years.
Then jackstands etc.
In fact, many vehicle jack points are in the corner.

The Volvo 850 and S/V70 series are the first vehicle I owned that has a center jack point that lift both wheels on the same side.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

1ezliving4ume
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Post by 1ezliving4ume »

You guys are going to scare this kid to death. He won't be able to ride in a car let alone work on it. Just be smart. a good jack, good stands and a clean level surface. Setting the parking parking brake and chalking the wheel are both good ideas. Happy fixing!

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Post by abscate »

Its one of the few ways you can actually kill yourself working on your car.

Ok, off to check my O2 sensor..
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obayha
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Post by obayha »

abscate wrote:Its one of the few ways you can actually kill yourself working on your car.

Ok, off to check my O2 sensor..

Do I see a welder and an arch near the gas tank?
The wheel is chalked. That's makes it right. :roll:

One more..
We have Jacked this thread to death..
I'm done.
1998 V70 T5 331,000 :( Her last day was on 3 cylinders.
New to me 1999 V70 NA 163,000 Now at 217,000
2006 V70 2.5T in driveway (WIFE'S)
1982 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser

plumsmooth
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Year and Model: V70 Wagon 2004
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Post by plumsmooth »

One last thing,

Can someone help me identify the corner lift locations, thanks...

Anything wrong with Cinder Blocks as a replacement for Wheel Chocks? :roll:

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