1999 V70xc Strut mount noise. Will alignment be necessary?

PapaHepcat · Post by **PapaHepcat** » 12 Sep 2015, 23:48

I'm starting to get that clunking from the front passenger strut when going over bumps, and sometimes just when turing the wheel. I'm assuming it's the upper mount. I JUST replaced the struts earlier this year. I should have done the mounts while I was at it. But I was broke and trying to save a few bucks. Sigh.

I'm slightly less broke now, so I might as well do both mounts. Will I need to do an alignment, also? I won't be touching the tie rods except to detach them. I replaced the inners and outers when I did the struts earlier, and of course got an alignment then.

I've heard the horror stories of struts punching through the hood or the mounts failing again rather quickly. I imagine I won't want to procrastinate with replacing the mounts. Is there a preferred brand to avoid having to replace again anytime soon? And would I need to do the bearing, the rubber bushing/seat or both? Or just a whole kit, even? It's already starting to get expensive...

Post by **misha** » 13 Sep 2015, 17:07

I heard that oem strut mounts are the only choice.
No,you don't need allignment unless you disturb tie rods settings points.Just detaching them from wheel's side will not disturb the allignment.

Post by **RussB** » 13 Sep 2015, 18:04

INA strut mounts have served me well for many years in 3 different P80's, and they're a bit cheaper than factory parts. Sachs spring seats are good, too.

You will have some camber adjustment available when you re-attach the struts at the steering knuckle. Get the wheels as vertical as possible before you tighten them.

I see no need to detach the tie rods. you will have to take the anti-sway bar link off the strut, and that can be easy or insanely difficult. If they are iffy, replace both as well.

There are no cheap ways out, unless you want to keep replacing parts every few months

Post by **j-dawg** » 13 Sep 2015, 18:41

You can also replace the spring seats, if needed, with XC90 units from Volvo (which I believe have replaced the 850/S70 parts at the dealer) or the IPD HD spring seats.

My car has had the IPD units and factory spring seats for a little over 40,000 miles (since before I bought it) and they're fine.

Post by **dosbricks** » 13 Sep 2015, 22:12

No need to detach the tie rods. This is a unbolt/bolt up operation and in theory ought to go back together without need of another alignment. There is a little play where the lower strut mounts bolt to the steering knuckle. Mark them and watch to see if the wheel drops any when you loosen these bolts. Set them back the same way they were. Drive the car for a while and check the front tire wear very diligently. If they wear even, roll with it.

Post by **scot850** » 13 Sep 2015, 22:15

With the car on the ground, try to turn the top strut nut carefully. If you feel resistance they are good. I have actually taken the top nut off using an air wrench and had a look at the top mounts looking for separation between the rubber and the steel insert. Again, if all good then they are ok.

Check the following for knocking noises:

1) Anti-sway bar end links. When they wear out the ball joints top or bottom, they will cause a knock.
2) Check the anti-sway bar bushes have not separated from the bar itself. Again will cause knocking.
3) Check the ball joint on the lower control arms for movement and split covers.

Neil.

Post by **dosbricks** » 13 Sep 2015, 22:21

Very good advice from Neil. Always better to confirm before assume.

PapaHepcat · Post by **PapaHepcat** » 15 Sep 2015, 08:18

scot850 wrote:With the car on the ground, try to turn the top strut nut carefully. If you feel resistance they are good. I have actually taken the top nut off using an air wrench and had a look at the top mounts looking for separation between the rubber and the steel insert. Again, if all good then they are ok.

Neil.

I'm glad you mentioned this. Definitely better to check than assume. I quickly tried it before heading to work this morning. The nut turns easily when I turn to loosen it, though I started to get resistance when I turned as if tightening. I didn't want to turn too hard, though. The cap turns along with it. Driver's side definitely had resistance both directions.

I'm guessing that it is indeed shot?

Post by **dosbricks** » 15 Sep 2015, 15:55

Post by **scot850** » 15 Sep 2015, 17:02

Agreed. But it still makes sense to check the other stuff at the same time. As you have to pull the struts to replace the upper spring seat, you have to remove or disconnect most of the other stuff so you might as well be sure you are fixing the whole problem. Nothing worse than doing a job twice over!

Neil.