2002 V70 Valve Body Repair Question
2002 V70 Valve Body Repair Question
I realize this topic has many threads, but I wondered if anybody has any experience with the Transgo kit for the AW55-50 in its most recent version. I have found many write-ups regarding the solenoid rebuilds and was planning on just doing that but I just received the kit and it now includes pieces to fix there or four additional valves. My issues are delay/bang when shifting into drive and a very infrequent flare typically when making a low-speed turn. I was hoping to avoid pulling the valve body and didn't get the valve body gaskets. Will cleaning up the solenoids do the trick or should I order the gaskets and do the full teardown?
Bummer. Are the gaskets between the sections of the valve body all glues to one side? I have seen several posts where people say that they just reused the gasket or wish they had reused the gasket. Just wondering if that is the case for every gasket in the VB or for only a few. If I need to order the full gasket set I will but if I won't need it I will try to dig into this thing this weekend.
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precopster
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I just refurbished a 2007 XC 70 solenoid set without pulling valve body. Just take photos before pulling the solenoid brackets. Easy peasy.
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
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cuhfs
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Do you have to get the VIDA software or dealer reset / adapt for the VB replacement? Also on a full trans swap is the VIDA software reset / adapt needed?
04 C70 Convert Auto
06 XC90 Auto (ORE) #401/800
06 S80
05 S80
12 S60
04 XC70 Auto (Parts car)
96 850 Wagon Manual Trans & 98 V70 (gone)
95 850 Sedan Auto Trans (gone)
04 XC70 Auto (gone)
04 C70 Convert (gone)
01 C70 Convert Manual Trans (gone)
06 XC90 Auto (ORE) #401/800
06 S80
05 S80
12 S60
04 XC70 Auto (Parts car)
96 850 Wagon Manual Trans & 98 V70 (gone)
95 850 Sedan Auto Trans (gone)
04 XC70 Auto (gone)
04 C70 Convert (gone)
01 C70 Convert Manual Trans (gone)
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precopster
- Posts: 7543
- Joined: 21 August 2010
- Year and Model: Lots
- Location: Melbourne Australia
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On a VB or full trans swap it's advisable to use Vida and reset fluid counters and reset adaptations and perform drive cycle.
Without doing this the TCM will eventually adapt to the new trans/VB however it may take more than 5,000 miles to get the shift quality you want.
The knockoff Vida Dices are used widely and they work unless you buy one from a disreputable seller that won't accept returns. Not user friendly when compared to phone apps.
@ dux02v70 One of the gaskets can be removed by placing the valve body plate into boiling water for 15-20 minutes. A dishwasher can also be used (when no-one else is home
) It then lifts more easily without scratching the plate. You don't need the gasket set if you just want to clean the solenoids.
Without doing this the TCM will eventually adapt to the new trans/VB however it may take more than 5,000 miles to get the shift quality you want.
The knockoff Vida Dices are used widely and they work unless you buy one from a disreputable seller that won't accept returns. Not user friendly when compared to phone apps.
@ dux02v70 One of the gaskets can be removed by placing the valve body plate into boiling water for 15-20 minutes. A dishwasher can also be used (when no-one else is home
Current cars VW Transporter 2.5TDI, 2010 XC90 D5 R Design
Mike
I just go the pan off this evening and I'm inclined to just do the solenoids. It wasn't that difficult to get to this point so I'll just give it a shot and if the drive engagement delay/bang doesn't go away then I'll go for the full rebuild.
BY the way, I had a tough time getting a couple of the bolts off. There was some rust on two of them and even though I cleaned them out I still couldn't get the torx bit engaged very well. On one, the bit started to strip it out. I sharpen up a chisel and set it against the side of the bolt head from above and whacked it with a hammer. Once I got it a little scored up I was able to tip the chisel so that it was driving it off center and really gave it a hit. That broke it loose. Dodged one there.
I have an Autocom cdp+ that will reset the adaptation so that is what I will use. It doesn't seem to put it into adaptive mode but it does make the transmission behave differently so it must be doing something.
I just go the pan off this evening and I'm inclined to just do the solenoids. It wasn't that difficult to get to this point so I'll just give it a shot and if the drive engagement delay/bang doesn't go away then I'll go for the full rebuild.
BY the way, I had a tough time getting a couple of the bolts off. There was some rust on two of them and even though I cleaned them out I still couldn't get the torx bit engaged very well. On one, the bit started to strip it out. I sharpen up a chisel and set it against the side of the bolt head from above and whacked it with a hammer. Once I got it a little scored up I was able to tip the chisel so that it was driving it off center and really gave it a hit. That broke it loose. Dodged one there.
I have an Autocom cdp+ that will reset the adaptation so that is what I will use. It doesn't seem to put it into adaptive mode but it does make the transmission behave differently so it must be doing something.
UPDATE: I completed the solenoid service over the weekend. I only did the solenoids, and then I also did a full fluid flush. I had done a flush and added a filter 7,000 miles ago but the fluid looked nasty. Sort of a chocolate syrup with a pink tinge. My major issue was a delay and a bang on drive engagement so as soon as I got the car back down on its tires I started it up and pulled the lever back to drive. It engaged immediately but was so smooth that I didn't know it was in gear until I took my foot off the brake. I took it for a drive and it shifts perfectly. It's like a new car. I didn't bother doing a reset. Thanks to everyone for all the writeups and answers associated with this repair.
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