1998 Volvo S70 GLT with 186000 miles.
Even since I bought the car the driver's door lock hasn't worked quite right. It will unlock just fine with the key or when pulling up on the plastic mast thing. But it will never unlock when using the unlock buttons inside the car or with the key fob. The other doors work fine.
When using the button you can hear the actuator doing something, and the mast moves ever so slightly, but it will not unlock. Is this a bad door lock actuator (the electric part)? Or something else? Thanks!
1998 S70 Door Lock Actuator Issue?
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ferocity02
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- bmdubya1198
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This might help:
My rear left door is having that problem. It unlocks when I pull up the pin, but it won't always unlock with the remote.
My rear left door is having that problem. It unlocks when I pull up the pin, but it won't always unlock with the remote.
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JRL
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It's broken, common
Mod note. Jim passed away in early 2022, his contributions to this forum are immortal, and he is missed. RIP
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2000 V70R Black, 144,000 miles Wife's R.
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cn90
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Search the internet for "Mabuchi" motor, about $5 on ebay etc.
New Lock Actuator is about $125 or so at dealer.
Best option is to operate the door manually, it costs nothing.
New Lock Actuator is about $125 or so at dealer.
Best option is to operate the door manually, it costs nothing.
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- BEJinFbk
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There's a kind of a "circuit breaker" in the door lock motor.
It's a little wafer that's designed to protect the motor if power
is sent to it for too long. Quite often, it fails in warmer weather.
The motor can be disassembled and the part can be repaired
or bypassed completely. There are some posts here if you do
a little searching.
It's a little wafer that's designed to protect the motor if power
is sent to it for too long. Quite often, it fails in warmer weather.
The motor can be disassembled and the part can be repaired
or bypassed completely. There are some posts here if you do
a little searching.
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
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cn90
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If you look at the video below, the fellow shows you how to disassemble the Mabuchi motor and clean it.
Since the Mabuchi motor is only $5 brand-new on ebay, I'd go for a new Mabuchi:
During re-assembly, use some RTV or sealant, gently clamp it as shown in the video, let it sit for a few hours before putting it back in the car.
Since the Mabuchi motor is only $5 brand-new on ebay, I'd go for a new Mabuchi:
During re-assembly, use some RTV or sealant, gently clamp it as shown in the video, let it sit for a few hours before putting it back in the car.
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scot850
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The shaft has the worm drive on it. Do the new motors come with this or can you somehow transfer the drive over to a generic motor? If the drive can't be swapped over, is there a specific part number to buy of Mabuchi motor?
This looks a lot like the motor in the headlight wipers, although the thermal resistor is external for that version.
Neil.
This looks a lot like the motor in the headlight wipers, although the thermal resistor is external for that version.
Neil.
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cn90
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The worm drive can be transferred but the operation is very delicate.
Buy the motor that already has the worm drive is on ebay, buy it and done with, don't mess around with worm drive transfer.
Buy the motor that already has the worm drive is on ebay, buy it and done with, don't mess around with worm drive transfer.
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cn90
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If you want to remove the worm gear, see the link below: basically heat gun and a little tap with hammer:
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/fo ... ement.html
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/fo ... ement.html
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ferocity02
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Thank you for the replies everyone!
I forgot to add one key piece of information. The door will LOCK just fine with the key AND buttons. But it will not UNLOCK with the buttons. It will only unlock with the key.
Does this change what could be wrong?
I forgot to add one key piece of information. The door will LOCK just fine with the key AND buttons. But it will not UNLOCK with the buttons. It will only unlock with the key.
Does this change what could be wrong?
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