New Jack Here, Questions about proper Lifting, lift-points, and Stand Placement Protocols

[plumsmooth]

Here's my New Jack.
As you can see one of the Jack Stands came missing an Arm.
They are sending me a new set free of Charge so I'll have three now.

However in the meantime, with limited Haynes Manual Jack Placement info.
I want to Jack just a corner and take off a tire.
And I am a little confused because I believe these stands are recommended to use in pairs only?


I really want to check my left front Caliper to see if it is the cause of my Vehicle's pulling to the right.
I have been working on leveling a spot in my driveway for Jacking and Stand placement.

It is starting to seem as though one should just always either jack a front or rear and place two parallel stands to do any work period.
But there is also the factory side middle jack point.


If anyone can help me clarify my Jacking options Jack Points, Stand Placement, and proper protocol I would appreciate it.


But I get the feeling if you jack one corner you wouldn't want to lower one corner down on to a stand because that wouldn't be secure.
And I do not think the stands are meant to be used as a pair on the sides either for Tire rotation but I am unsure about that too.

I guess I should research this a little more before I jump in.
But I am managed to scare myself a little toward Jacking in general, even with a basic common sense understanding.

P.S. There are a lot of link references to Volvo-Speed for a jack point diagram but that link seems long gone.

[bmdubya1198]

You should be able to lift a corner of the car, you'd just need to find a diagram showing a suitable place. I know I lifted mine up just behind the front wheel to replace the inner wheel well, but I can't remember where exactly I placed the jack.
Nothing wrong with using one jack stand as opposed to the pair.
The black friday price on that jack was pretty good, huh? Haha, I was tempted to get one.

[JimBee]

I always put the jack pad under the big center bolt where the subframe attaches to the body behind the front wheel or ahead of the rear wheel under the suspension mount.
I don't use jack stands, only lumber for support. I have some short sections of 10 x 10's , 3 x 6's , and 2 x 4's plus some scrap pieces of plywood. Those I trust!

[abscate]

It's actually ok to jack up a car with just the jack to. Change a wheel

If

If

If

If

you have the self-control to resist the temptation to stick any body part under the car while you are doing this.

[Ozark Lee]

For changing tires I throw the jack under the subframe mounts on the front and under the end link bolt on the rears. Those are ideal places to place the jack stands though and If I am doing something substantial I place the jack stands under those points and use the subframe itself to jack up the front and the trailing arms, as close to the end link as I can get it and still have space to set the stand under the link bolt.

The frame channel tends to dent if I try to jack it up there.


...Lee

[erikv11]

I always lift from the center, always place two jackstands.

I jack the front from the center of the vehicle; place the jack tray under the nub on the subframe straight back from the license plate. Jackstands where the subframe attaches just rear of the front wheels.

For any work on the rear I put a piece of lumber under the rear tow hook where it is welded to the spare tire well, and again lift both wheels. Jackstands get placed on those brackets where the delta links mount to the body.

[cn90]

As already mentioned above...

Safe places for jacking:
- Factory center jack under front door: this will lift both wheels on the same side in the air.
- The "Triangular Plate" where subframe is attached to the car.
- Under the subframe itself.

1. When I do brake job, rotor etc. and I don't get under the car:
* 1 jackstand under subframe and the floor jack right under the "Triangular Plate" (just nudge it up tight and one stroke to engage it).

2. When I need to get under the car:
a. Routine oil changes: I use wood ramps, drive the car up, change the oil, drive the car down. Photos already in forum, you can search for them.
I feel very safe when the front wheels sit on wood ramps!

b. Axle work etc. I do same as erikv11: 2 jackstands.
- However when I work on one side, let say LF axle: I place both jackstands on the LEFT side of the subframe to be safe (what if you place a jackstand on the R and the other one on the L, and one jackstand fails, it is rare but it has happened before!!!).
- I use 1 regular jackstand (with 4 legs, not shown in photo) and the screw-type jackstand seen in the photo below.
- There is a problem when one uses two (2) 4-leg jackstands on the same side: once the 4-leg jackstand is used, it is difficult to use another 4-leg jackstand on the same side of the car, simply b/c the 4-leg jackstand goes by click-click-click increments and nothing in between.
- The beauty of the screw-type jackstand is that: I can easily place it under the subframe as a 2nd jackstand, turn the screw up until it is tight, then turn another 360 degrees or so. Now the load is shared between 2 jackstands (a 4-leg jackstand and a screw-type jackstand).

A few more points:

1.Whatever you do, chock the diagonal tire on both the fore and aft part of the tires using bricks or wheel chocks.
If you do brake work on LF wheel ---> chock RR wheel.

2. Flat surface is crucial. Avoid doing work on a slope!

3. Quality of surface is also crucial. Concrete is best. Asphalt on a hot day in July-August: the jackstand can sink into the asphalt!
So place a thick piece of plywood (about 3/4-inch thick). Avoid gravel driveway, if you must do work, then again, use thick plywood.

4. Avoid working alone, always tell someone where you are just in case. Have a cell phone nearby too.

[cn90]

I forgot to add earthquake risk.
Don't ever underestimate earthquakes!!!!!!!

[BEJinFbk]

The center factory jack point will lift the entire side of the car.
To avoid damaging the lifting bracket, I slip a hockey puck between
the jack and the car. It not only spreads the weight and prevents
damage to the jacking point, it also provides a better "grip".

Once it's in the air, the triangular plate referenced above is a solid
point for a jack stand. I also buffer this with a hockey puck.

As far as only supporting a single point to work? I've never done that.
I always support at least two corners at the front or back before I start
wrenching to keep things symmetrical. Just seems more stable to me.

[cn90]

1+ on the hockey puck, which is about $1.50 at local hockey store. It is basically a piece of rubber.

Or go to local tire shops and ask for old truck tires. These truck tires have thick sidewalls that you can cut a few 3x3 inch-pieces for free.
Don't cut the tread portion of the tire b/c you won't be able to (reinforced wires/fabrics etc.).