98 V70 NA timing belt replace interval

[abscate]

We had a cheap one crap out at 20-30k recently, if you are really tight, get one kid the belt, another the idler, another the water pump, and the favourite kid the tensioner.....

[theWIFES_S70]

What a Christmas that would be! The wife gets the hydraulic tensioner, the oldest, the water pump, the middle kid gets the middle roller and the baby gets the small roller!

Ok, in all seriousness, were looking at 30k on a Beck/Arney. Two solid years. Meh, that's not too bad if you ask me!

[mecheng]

What everyone wrote above is true. If the hyd tens and wp is Aisin is okay leave well enough alone. I agree with the 100k interval change except if you drive regularly in either extreme heat or cold. The wp and tensioner usually fail safe unlike cheap aftermarket brands

The mech tensioner definitely change every t belt, I had one go noisy and it was hard to diagnose. I have 130,000km on my belt, no cracks. Wp is prob original at 230,000km

[cn90]

This reply is sort of related...

Was wondering, if you're in a bind and can't afford an OEM timing belt kit....

This is actually a good question. If I were in a bind, this is what I'd do.
OK completely hypothetical but here you go. If the car has relatively low mileage like 140K or so...

1. Car with hydraulic tensioner:
- The bare bone minimum is a new Continental Timing Belt, which is about $15 at eeuroparts.
- The Aisin WP is good to about 200K. So if your check shows no leak, you can leave it alone and routinely check coolant level.
- The HT is good for > 200K, make sure the white spacer is in place, this is crucial!
- The 2 pulleys: if no play, I'd gently remove the seal (it is tricky but doable), clean with mineral spirits (or gasoline), let them dry.
- Then apply high-temp grease. Re-install the seal.
I re-grease my serpentine belt pulleys all the time to prolong the life of these pulleys.

When it comes to Timing Belt pulleys, there is this fear that fear but knowing these cars, if you have no play in the bearing and if you are in a bind, I think it is safe to re-grease the bearings.

2. Car with mechanical tensioner:
- To me, the bare-bone mininum it a new TB ($30) and a mechanical tensioner ($40).
The mechanical tensioner is the main culprit that can fail as early as 110K.
For some reasons, the bearing in this mechanical tensioner is not as good as the one in the HT system.
- The idler pulley (a $40 item) can be repacked with new grease.

When you are in a bind, you are in a bind, and you do the best to get moving.
Been there done that.
I was in a bind many many years ago, before going to college.
Fortunately now, I am no longer in a bind now...

Great question though!!!

[theWIFES_S70]

Thanks for the reply, cn90! Makes a lot of sense to me. I think I still have my old pulleys, I should see if I can regrease them!

[cn90]

The technique for regrease is below.
Basically lift the seal up at the "lip" side. Use blunt hook and go around it.
During install, make sure you use the correct socket or piece of wood.
Gently tap the seal in. No need for too much force.


http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showth ... ley+grease.